Pertronix ignition problems

[yellowkeeble]

HELP!!! On my way to work the other day , approximately a 25 mile ride one way, my 67 Fury III just quit on me. It's a newly rebuilt 440 engine with Pertonix ignition parts, Ignitor III module and Flame Thrower II coil. The car will not start and I'm stumped, hopefull someone can offer some suggestions.

What I've done so far:

1. Checked that I'm getting 12v to the coil. Yes I am.
2. I'm getting spark from the coil. (Grounded off a plug from the coil to the block)
3. I am NOT getting spark at the cylinder. (Again, grounded off a plug to the block)
4. Bypassed the 12v and ground to the coil by going directly from teh battery. Still does not start. ( Trying to determine if there is an elctrical problem elsewhere that is grounding off and I'm losing power.)
5. Replaced the ignition module (ignitor III) in teh distributor. Still will not start.
6. Checked for fuel delivery. Yes, I'm getting gas at the carb and plugs were wet with fuel. Dried the plugs and still no start.
7. Checked rotor and cap for damage. No damage identified.
8. Distributor was pulled out and inspected with no damage found.

That's a gist of the work done so far. I don't want to just by parts and replace until I accurately diagnose the problem. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[stubs300]

I haven't done or know about the ignitor III unit or how it's supposed to be wired. I have mine wired directly to the coil and don't have any problems yet regardless of what others say about wiring it like that. You seem to have covered all bases here, but I'd check.
1. Check to make sure your gap is correctly set, it may have jumped or you screwed up installing it.
2. Make sure you have the collar on the rotor.
3. Make sure the metal tab on top of the rotor isn't mangled, bent, whatever that's screwing something up.
4. Is the cap OK, not cracked, dirty, etc.? I would assume fine if it ran before.
5. Did you reinstall the dist. correctly?
Can't help ya much more without being there. Good Luck

 

[Yatzee]

I agree with stubs300 100% . Pertronic's has a thorough trouble shooting procedure online or in their manual for the pickup. If you have spark coming from the coil tower wire but not beyond, it's everything beyond the coil that's the issue. Sorry if you spent money on a new module that you really didn't need. You can question the condition of your ballast resistor, ignition switch and wiring (especially at the bulkhead connector) but to eliminate them you'll have to do a bit of "hot" wiring. A bit of wiring knowledge is required for this procedure or at the least a wiring diagram for your car. Here's MacGyver's phone number: 445-779-16**

 

[saforwardlook]

I will never understand why people put on those trouble prone Petronix electronic ignition systems. Learn how to adjust points and never have a reliability problem virtually ever. I know of several people who have installed these Petronix systems, and not one of them runs reliably.

 

[Landyacht]

Ballast resistor? They are cheap to replace and do go bad often.

 

[The Horvaths]

I will never understand why people put on those trouble prone Petronix electronic ignition systems. Learn how to adjust points and never have a reliability problem virtually ever. I know of several people who have installed these Petronix systems, and not one of them runs reliably.

My Pertronix III runs like a champ...

 

[stubs300]

I will never understand why people put on those trouble prone Petronix electronic ignition systems. Learn how to adjust points and never have a reliability problem virtually ever. I know of several people who have installed these Petronix systems, and not one of them runs reliably.

Geez, I'm sorry Mr. Know-it-all. Then can you tell me why the ones in my 383 and slant 6 have been reliable & trouble free for the past 25 and 18 years? I know there are many other Pertronix users that can speak the same. I know how to adjust points just fine, I just prefer not to do them and see no reason why I should just because you say so!

 

[The Horvaths]

Geez, I'm sorry Mr. Know-it-all. Then can you tell me why the ones in my 383 and slant 6 have been reliable & trouble free for the past 25 and 18 years? I know there are many other Pertronix users that can speak the same. I know how to adjust points just fine, I just prefer not to do them and see no reason why I should just because you say so!

Why must you go about everything in the most disrespectful and rude way possible? Everyone is entitled to their opinion, and I don't recall him ever telling you to change yours.

 

[commando1]

They belong on small blocks only because it's a pain in the *** setting points while bumping up against the cowl...

 

[detmatt]

I love my pertronix. I've got the base units with the flamethrower coil on two big blocks and not a single issue ever. I'm not sure why some choose to upgrade from the base unit for a street car. If I've heard of others having issues it was not with the base model. I had marked improvement in overall performance over the points that I replaced on both cars and with that being said I'm not sure why anyone would still run points other than originality.

 

[commando1]

This should be interesting....

How many people here have never installed or gapped a new set of points.....

 

[detmatt]

Installing new points is a breeze but I may never do it again.

 

[300cruiser]

Never done it, but I grew up in a more digital than analog world so the Pertronix was a natural add. I also put the base model in my 440 and the car far more responsive, starts better, and idles smooth. Wouldn't go back.

 

[yellowkeeble]

So oustiside of the polling and opinion on installing newer technology....does anyone have a suggestion on how to get me back on the road?

The ballast resistor has been removed because the ignition coil needs 12v.

 

[67Monaco]

So oustiside of the polling and opinion on installing newer technology....does anyone have a suggestion on how to get me back on the road?

The ballast resistor has been removed because the ignition coil needs 12v.

Since you state you have spark from the coil I'd say your problem is between the coil and plugs. I'd check, cap for cracks, make sure the rotor is still good, I.e. contacts haven't broken or severely erroded, bad coil to cap wire yada yada.


*edit just read #7.

Hmm, I'd put a multimeter on that rotor just to be sure you have continuity.


OR that coil is really weak.

OOOOORRR going way back in my day, I had the contact button on the center of the cap fall off once (not likely but..).

 

[yellowkeeble]

Continuity is there at the rotor. I've ordered a new cap and rotor in the event there is something not visible by the naked eye. Thanks for taking a moment to provide some advice.

 

[67Monaco]

Continuity is there at the rotor. I've ordered a new cap and rotor in the event there is something not visible by the naked eye. Thanks for taking a moment to provide some advice.

Failing that, I'd suspect the coil being weak. Maybe swap in the old one and check.

 

[yellowkeeble]

Thought about that but I no longer have the ballast resistor to rewire the old coil.

 

[67Monaco]

Thought about that but I no longer have the ballast resistor to rewire the old coil.

It'll run on the old coil without it, I just wouldn't take it on a 300 mile drive though because it isn't gunna last long. Your main enemy without the ballast is going to be over heating the coil.

 

[66Newyorker]

You stated that you had spark from the coil but not the dist. Your issue would have to be coil output or rotor going to ground or plug wires. You are on the right track. One thing when you test spark with a plug to ground the voltage needed to jump the spark plug gap is a lot lower than what is needed to jump the gap while under compression in the cylinder. You can get an adjustable spark tester. But you are heading in the right direction. One other thing you might want to check your coil wire and plug wires for too much resistance.