Pistons, Rings and Bearings removed!

@twostick I have never had an issue with running 9.0:1 compression, iron heads, and premium gas. I have 9.2:1 on a 1969 440 and it runs excellent on premium gas. Not sure why 8.9:1 would be an issue with iron heads. 9.8:1 might be, if it's a matter of numbers transcribed.

OTOH, I like the idea of the aluminum heads. Which model# - Edelbrock, 440 Source, etc - would you choose? Would it work with stock intake and exhaust manifolds?
 
Other than those way too far down stock pistons I would put that right back together. Doesn't Kieth black make a step head piston for a 400, they make it for everything else. If they do I would swap them on buy some oversized rings to file down to low .020s gap and send it. If you are concerned about rods bolts the cheap ARP will switch without pressing. Those bearings look good, I'd put the back in, or if your paranoia is flaring, throw a set of King engine bearings in it (Clevite has become too expensive).
 
So I dropped off the block/crank this morning to the machine shop. At first glace, he said the engine looks good and that the rod bearings are already .010 over. However, he thinks its factory setup that way. He also thinks the pistons are coming pretty far up to the top of the deck. He will measure everything and let me know. The crank however is a different story, he said it will need to be turned.

However... He was just finishing up the heads and brought these out to show me...

He said the bent one was on an exhaust port and had to be doing nothing!

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I would not use the comp cams lifters. There are some real horror stories out there. I'm not one to yell fire when I see smoke, but there is a overwhelming amount of comp lifter horror stories even hydraulic rollers that they will try to direct you to buy if you call with questions or concerns. They really need to do something about their quality control of lifter manufacturing.
Good luck.
 
I would not use the comp cams lifters. There are some real horror stories out there. I'm not one to yell fire when I see smoke, but there is a overwhelming amount of comp lifter horror stories even hydraulic rollers that they will try to direct you to buy if you call with questions or concerns. They really need to do something about their quality control of lifter manufacturing.
Good luck.

Im using the Hughes Engine lifters, cam and springs.
 
Im using the Hughes Engine lifters, cam and springs.
Smart fellow! That's my plan for my 400. Your thread interests me greatly! I would like to do the same for 2022, though I want to use a forged crank from one of my 383s in the 400, so I can go with internal balancing, making it easier to use my older transmissions...
 
I'd check the crankshaft bearing surfaces for burrs or ridges. They can be polished off with a long thin piece of fine grit sandpaper, generally 400 grit, and fast side to side motion (like shoe shine boys used to do when they buffed out your shoes)
Never ever use sandpaper or emery paper on a crankshaft bearing journal, cranks are ground then polished, use crocus cloth for the polishing.
 
Yeah im excited. While I wait for the machine shop, I am cleaning and painting.

Right on! I too get excited at the prospect of a major improvement to my Mopar rides. There's a reputable machine shop on the north side of this slum-ville, which I plan to use first to prepare some 915 heads for the 383 I'm running. THEN, if they do as I like with that job, I have a 400 of my own to build. They mentioned around $3k for a basic, stock rebuild, with their warranty. The WARRANTY is the BIG attraction to us with using a machine shop. I don't think they can warrant work with just cylinder heads, unless I also hire them to install them. We MIGHT do that, depending on a number of variables TBD next spring.

The 400 job is the Big One for us. I want closed quench heads on that engine, with the 915s we got leading the list of probable successors, BUT, I might be persuaded to use the 452s, IFF other design considerations can be made. But the FACT remains, 452 heads follow the open quench paradigm which the 906 first was designed to fulfill, and if running closed quench heads, for that extra bit of high compression THUMP on the power stroke, then the 452 won't do. If machining the 915s gets prohibitively costly, then and only then will after market heads be considered.

I also don't plan to stroke the engine, BUT, might be persuaded otherwise IFF the cost/benefit curve for such a mose favors it. Since we prefer low rev/high torque sorts of performance, it occurs to us that longer stroke delivers more torque, but at its own price. The short stroke B block engines certainly were WELL designed for their mission, and maybe on the rebuild, I might opt to get the torque at higher revs to keep that beautiful over-square design the 400 4.32" (or greater if over-bored) piston on a 3.375" stroke was meant to run with, before the damned EPA and other neurotic interests destroyed the B/RB line. (CURSE THEM TO EVERLASTING PERDITION!!)
 
I would swap out the cast 400 crank with a forged 383 crank. All 383’s had forged cranks so any will work. You will also need the 383 balancer. I probably have a good one if you want it.
 
I would swap out the cast 400 crank with a forged 383 crank. All 383’s had forged cranks so any will work. You will also need the 383 balancer. I probably have a good one if you want it.

Thanks for the offer but I am sticking with the the 400 crank. Its not alot of work to turn it and I already have everything I need. I am not building a race car or anything. Just a daily driver that can do a burn out. LOL
 
The cast cranks are good but over the years I have seen a few fail just behind the balancer. They were not on performance engines, mostly on trucks with triple or quad pulleys on the front.
 
The cast cranks are good but over the years I have seen a few fail just behind the balancer. They were not on performance engines, mostly on trucks with triple or quad pulleys on the front.

Yeah and mine has a quad pulley on it. Only using 3 of it but still.
 
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