Pistons, Rings and Bearings removed!

I have one that will need to be polished as it has some surface rust on it. I'm not going to use it so if you want it pay for the shipping and you can have it.
 
I would swap out the cast 400 crank with a forged 383 crank. All 383’s had forged cranks so any will work. You will also need the 383 balancer. I probably have a good one if you want it.

That's EXACTLY MY Plan. But if a fellow is content with an external balance torque converter then the nodular iron crank should do well up into the low 6000 rpm range. Even with a forged crank, I don't foresee running my engine(s) over 4000 rpm for any reason, let alone 6k, but I still prefer internal balance and the superior strength of a forged crankshaft. Still, the nodular cast iron cranks used by sundry automotive companies in the 1970s served many folks faithfully. The nodular iron cranks are a bit more flexible than forged ones too. Ford put them in their neutered 335/385 block engines, with economic savings, despite the lost Glory....

DAMN the beancounters!

But if one must count one's own beans, nodular iron will save some.
 
I would swap out the cast 400 crank with a forged 383 crank. All 383’s had forged cranks so any will work. You will also need the 383 balancer. I probably have a good one if you want it.

There were 383s with cast cranks in 1971.
3462922 383 / 400 2BBL Cast Externally Balanced

3672000 400 4BBL Cast Premium Cast Crank
Suitable for mild hop-ups

The 6 pack 440 had an externally balanced cast crank also, due to the heavy connecting rods.

These fellows provide a decent quick reference for casting numbers:

Moparts on the Web - Main Index
 
That's EXACTLY MY Plan. But if a fellow is content with an external balance torque converter then the nodular iron crank should do well up into the low 6000 rpm range. Even with a forged crank, I don't foresee running my engine(s) over 4000 rpm for any reason, let alone 6k, but I still prefer internal balance and the superior strength of a forged crankshaft. Still, the nodular cast iron cranks used by sundry automotive companies in the 1970s served many folks faithfully. The nodular iron cranks are a bit more flexible than forged ones too. Ford put them in their neutered 335/385 block engines, with economic savings, despite the lost Glory....

DAMN the beancounters!

But if one must count one's own beans, nodular iron will save some.


This was exactly going to be my question. What advantages would I gain by switching? My current crank is already being turned, no going back on that cost now and I already have everything ready to install. Hell I just cleaned and painted the balancer yesterday. its pretty!

mRAlWtj5mnB3KMK5ZqDivRdpZAxfPlvWTpqk2NlPAKgQfXI68KS0wutWqXyCpd_zofkeqI=w3308-h1860-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
This was exactly going to be my question. What advantages would I gain by switching? My current crank is already being turned, no going back on that cost now and I already have everything ready to install. Hell I just cleaned and painted the balancer yesterday. its pretty!

View attachment 502213
Looks pretty!

Just peace of mind. You will probably be fine with the cast crank.

I didn't realize you already had the machine work done. Have fun with your build.
 
There were 383s with cast cranks in 1971.
3462922 383 / 400 2BBL Cast Externally Balanced

3672000 400 4BBL Cast Premium Cast Crank
Suitable for mild hop-ups

The 6 pack 440 had an externally balanced cast crank also, due to the heavy connecting rods.

These fellows provide a decent quick reference for casting numbers:

Moparts on the Web - Main Index

6pak engines were externally balanced because of the heavy rods only. They had forged cranks in them.

NOTHING wrong with a cast crank. Good for a lot more power than most are will to pay the price for.

Kevin
 
They will go 6k repeatedly, and 500hp. I would not sweat it.

That's right. 500 hp at 6k can be repeatedly done with pretty much stock rotating assembly parts in a B block. Virtman made The Best wedge big block EVER with the B/RB engines. Some nitpick over lack of 4 main crankshaft bolts being available for these engines, but they were in truth, so well designed, there was little NEED for such with them. Less optimal designs from less optimal Detroit corporations NEEDED the 4 main bolts to hold their **** together.
 
This was exactly going to be my question. What advantages would I gain by switching? My current crank is already being turned, no going back on that cost now and I already have everything ready to install. Hell I just cleaned and painted the balancer yesterday. its pretty!

View attachment 502213

Aside from having less stuff on your torque converter, and maybe a little more freedom of what you care to attach to the engine if you fancy older stuff, the only advantage would be peace of mind. Your stuff is beautiful, and I expect it will last longer than gasoline stations in this blighted country....
 
Well, while I wait for the machine shop, I took out the trans today and dropped it off for a rebuild. $600 for everything.
 
Well I heard back from the machine shop today. Actually was good news. The bores are fine and within spec, as are the pistons. I will need new cam bearings, .020 rod bearings, .010 main bearings and a freeze plug set. The crank is being turned right now. I already ordered all of that stuff from summit. I will have to call him back and ask or maybe someone here might now, which size rings do I get? Im not sure what is Standard size on a 400BB.
 
Back
Top