Points/relay getting hot.

[3C's & a D?]

Does anyone know what the function or purpose of this component is? Inside is a set of delicate points, one side wrapped in very fine wire. Everything seems to work without it. It gets quite hot while the car is running and what seems odd is that it stays warm when the ignition is off. Possibly worth mentioning that I haven't been able to get the dash lights working, same for the hazard lights. The last owner swapped in a tilt/tele steering column with the pull out switch on the column, car has the original switch on the dash, neither works! Car is a 1970 Chrysler Newport convertible. Thanks in advance.

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[Davea Lux]

Your pics are not loading. You need to give a better description as it sounds like you are describing a cluster regulator.

Dave

 

[Davea Lux]

Your pics are not loading. You need to give a better description as it sounds like you are describing a cluster regulator. This will normally control gauges. Dash lights are on the thumb wheel and flashers are on different circuit

Dave

 

[3C's & a D?]

Thanks Dave! I'm not sure what happened there.

 

[Davea Lux]

That is a dead buzzer, not sure for what. Probably headlights on or seat belt, key in ignition etc. You can safely unplug it.

Dave

 

[3C's & a D?]

That is a dead buzzer, not sure for what. Probably headlights on or seat belt, key in ignition etc. You can safely unplug it.

Dave

Thank you kindly sir, for your knowledge and timely response. I like to know what something does or is supposed to do before I disregard it. Also just to fully understand your response referring to it as a "dead buzzer" I assume you are saying it is no longer functioning as it should be? Due to the heat description?

 

[Davea Lux]

Thank you kindly sir, for your knowledge and timely response. I like to know what something does or is supposed to do before I disregard it. Also just to fully understand your response referring to it as a "dead buzzer" I assume you are saying it is no longer functioning as it should be? Due to the heat description?

Correct, it is building heat because it is no linger cycling, most likely the points are fused..

Davae

 

[3C's & a D?]

Correct, it is building heat because it is no linger cycling, most likely the points are fused..

Davae

Thanks again, I didn't disassemble it until I got home. The points are open but there is definitely some heat going on. I'm guessing even the smallest amount of power (bad ground?) is causing that fine wire to trip, closing them? I'm going to test the theory without the case just out of interest.

 

[jct]

That's not a buzzer.
It's a time delay relay, or something like that. Its lights up the bulb to illumnate for your ignition switch. longer the door is open the longer it stays on. Well in theory

The replacements today are junk i installed one last year and this year it sort of quit working unless i leave my door open for even longer i need it for :-|

 

[Welder guy]

Jct is correct . I replaced mine with a spare I had from a parts car . We had talked about this relay on the form before and Some one posted the replacement from Napa and I kept the Napa pic for future reference . The other pics are of the spare I used . I will try and find the thread about these relays

 

[Welder guy]

Here’s what they look like inside

 

[Welder guy]

Duralast Relay - Headlight 19390

 

[Welder guy]

The reason the timer /relay would get hot and stay hot is if the points stay closed supplying continuous constant power to the Timed dash lights. Did you battery slowly go dead on you ? This would be a reason why . This could be a contributing reason why your dash lights don’t work. It may have burnt out some of the bulbs or heated/ melted some wires or something like that. I’m not familiar with your cars dash lights but on my 69 sport fury convertible the timer only controls a couple dash light bulbs : one directly above the key and the other directly above all the switches. It doesn’t time all of the dash lights on my car .

 

[3C's & a D?]

Thanks jct, and Marlow, that's it, the ignition key light. Thirty bucks for one of those!!! Even if that fine wire is solid gold, that is a rip off! I guess if you're a high roller and need to see the key slot it the dark it's worth it. I can find it by feel and relation. Oddly while it lights up the switch as it should, and the light goes out in about twenty seconds, the points appear to be in contact at all times with the battery connected? Thanks for the responses all.