Points to Electronic Ignition Question

I ran both the multitester and basic testlight only get voltage on the blue/brown lead during crank ok thats start circuit. Key on test blue single lead nothing.
Here is the factory setup as it was running:
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I ran a splice off the single blue to the ECM and there is where i left it. Ill get back at it in a day or so. Mrs Dobalovr Bday so no workee on cars this weekend! Thanks for all the advice guys ill start fresh and report back.
 
You didn't answer whether you tested the ballast itself for continuity. That single BLUE wire on the LEFT is the RUN side of the ballast and you should read voltage there if you have voltage on the coil side of ballast.
 
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I was only reading voltage during cranking not with key on tried ballast supplied with kit same result. Ill put the meter on it and take a few pics with key on versus cranking. Havent changed any wiring other then the splice to the run side back to ecm and black from ecm to neg side coil and the two wire combo to the dizzy. The old wire to the old dizzy has not been taped off nor the old wire to the neg coil mmmmm
 
try power straight to the distributor coil . then start the car. if it runs then you know you are losing power through the ignition switch or related wiring.
 
With the key in the on position I was not getting any voltage from either side of the resistor with the key in the start position i get voltage on one side. The weird thing is the car ran before the swap and i changed nothing between the bulkhead and the resistor its still setup like it was for points. The engine tries to fire while cranking but immediately dies when key returns to run. The kit instructions talk about adding a wire from ignition to resistor run side. Ill post some pics in a day or two maybe make more sense.
did you try that?
 
I was only reading voltage during cranking not with key on tried ballast supplied with kit same result. Ill put the meter on it and take a few pics with key on versus cranking. Havent changed any wiring other then the splice to the run side back to ecm and black from ecm to neg side coil and the two wire combo to the dizzy. The old wire to the old dizzy has not been taped off nor the old wire to the neg coil mmmmm

If you get NO voltage at the single BLUE wire on the ballast with the KEY ON (no crank) something is definitely wrong. Like Big_John said, you need to trace the BLUE wire to the ignition switch. The BLUE wire gets its 12V at the switch via a RED wire also at the switch.

Without voltage at the BLUE ignition wire at the ballast there will be no voltage to the ECU at the #1 lead. The ballast reduces voltage to the coil to around +8/+9 volts when running depending on the ballasts ohm resistance. When the key is in the START position it bypasses the ballast and gives full voltage to the coil for starting. When you release the key to RUN, power goes through the ballast to reduce and regulate the voltage flowing through the electrical system. Failure of a ballast resister will result in engine starting, but shut off once the key is released from the start position. From what you've explained it sounds to me like you have two things going on.... 1) No power at the BLUE wire and 2) Faulty Ballast. Since you got a new one in your kit, why not replace it anyway?
 
If you get NO voltage at the single BLUE wire on the ballast with the KEY ON (no crank) something is definitely wrong. Like Big_John said, you need to trace the BLUE wire to the ignition switch. The BLUE wire gets its 12V at the switch via a RED wire also at the switch.

Without voltage at the BLUE ignition wire at the ballast there will be no voltage to the ECU at the #1 lead. The ballast reduces voltage to the coil to around +8/+9 volts when running depending on the ballasts ohm resistance. When the key is in the START position it bypasses the ballast and gives full voltage to the coil for starting. When you release the key to RUN, power goes through the ballast to reduce and regulate the voltage flowing through the electrical system. Failure of a ballast resister will result in engine starting, but shut off once the key is released from the start position. From what you've explained it sounds to me like you have two things going on.... 1) No power at the BLUE wire and 2) Faulty Ballast. Since you got a new one in your kit, why not replace it anyway?

Ok success at last! Traced the lack of run voltage to connection at the bulkhead connector. Cleaned up the connectors and go figure run voltage returned. I had run a 12v key on jumper to the ecm and she started and ran so knew it was just a connection problem from ignition switch to resistor. Checked continuity from switch to bulkhead which was good. (Blue wire) from bulkhead to resistor no continuity so voila problem solved! The strange thing is I was never messing around with any wires or connectors at the bulkhead. Coincidence or was Scorch just fighting back because i removed her points?
 
Ok success at last! Traced the lack of run voltage to connection at the bulkhead connector. Cleaned up the connectors and go figure run voltage returned. I had run a 12v key on jumper to the ecm and she started and ran so knew it was just a connection problem from ignition switch to resistor. Checked continuity from switch to bulkhead which was good. (Blue wire) from bulkhead to resistor no continuity so voila problem solved! The strange thing is I was never messing around with any wires or connectors at the bulkhead. Coincidence or was Scorch just fighting back because i removed her points?

CONGRATS! WELL DONE!!!!
 
Glad you got it figured out so you won't have to think about it the whole time you are on vacation.

Ya dont need any distractions on vacation. Had the daughters boyfriend helping out. He is a good tech workng at a "Downtown" Chrysler store. Surprised me on the road test...asked for my permission to marry my daughter....I said hell ya! Any kid who will spend time learning about old Chryslers on the weekend after repairing New Chryslers all week is a good man in my books! Gonna enjoy having a son-in-law with skills during Scorch's ressurection! Also was the right thing to do in my mind asking first...good move on his part.
 
Ya dont need any distractions on vacation. Had the daughters boyfriend helping out. He is a good tech workng at a "Downtown" Chrysler store. Surprised me on the road test...asked for my permission to marry my daughter....I said hell ya! Any kid who will spend time learning about old Chryslers on the weekend after repairing New Chryslers all week is a good man in my books! Gonna enjoy having a son-in-law with skills during Scorch's ressurection! Also was the right thing to do in my mind asking first...good move on his part.
Does that count as trading her off for future services? Congratulations on both counts, getting the old girl running and getting the young girl to move out so you have her former bedroom to store your wheel collection. :poke:
 
Ya dont need any distractions on vacation. Had the daughters boyfriend helping out. He is a good tech workng at a "Downtown" Chrysler store. Surprised me on the road test...asked for my permission to marry my daughter....I said hell ya! Any kid who will spend time learning about old Chryslers on the weekend after repairing New Chryslers all week is a good man in my books! Gonna enjoy having a son-in-law with skills during Scorch's ressurection! Also was the right thing to do in my mind asking first...good move on his part.


Now you are just going to have to deal with all the "mother-of-the-bride" stuff while you are gone :p. Congrats, by the way.
 
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