POR-15, or something better?

Exterior, Paint & Bodywork

  1. Dsertdog

    Dsertdog Old man with an old guitar, and a blue note. FCBO Gold Member

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    I'm looking for something to seal and convert rust on the interior floor pan.
    POR-15 was the standard once, but many failures have been documented so I'm looking for better alternatives and don't want to read countless web site pitches.

    The rust will be wire brushed and any porosity in the steel will be cut out and patches welded in. But I'll need something to coat the treated steel any freshly welded patches. I only want to do this once and cover it with sound insulation.

    Any suggestions?
    Thanks!
     
  2. CanCritter

    CanCritter Senior Member

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  3. 69psf

    69psf New Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I'm currently restoring/patching floor pans in my '69 Sport Fury. Mine is an AC car which means the floor pans stayed were wet from the AC condensation. The areas I'm saving were stripped bare and any rust left over was treated with Rust Reformer from Rustoleum. Stops Rust® Rust Reformer Product Page. Seems to work quite well
     
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  4. jason99

    jason99 Active Member FCBO Gold Member

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  5. 62dodge

    62dodge Active Member

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    I'm sold on vinegar its less destructive and cheaper than any other rust destroyer. i IMG_5523.JPG use apple cider vinegar as the smell is more pleasant
     
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  6. mr. fix it

    mr. fix it Old Man with a Hat

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    I liked the Rust Bullet product.

    Easy to work with
    Lots of time to work it into the metal
    The can can resealed with the inert spray gas(Bloxygen) you can buy to preserve the opened product.
    The gloss black is tough as nails too
    I used the silver on the firewall & both silver & silver then gloss black on the stub frame as shown here.
    20140309_171516.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2019
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  7. Dsertdog

    Dsertdog Old man with an old guitar, and a blue note. FCBO Gold Member

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    What inert spray gas? I don't see that on the web site under automotive!
     
  8. Samplingman

    Samplingman Senior Member

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    There is no one product, but a process and a combination of steps. POR-15 is just an encapsulator, it doesn’t convert rust. It should be the last step, not the first. I don’t have experience with Rust Bullet, but I think it has similar properties. Evapo-Rust, vinegar, and Rust Dissolve (phosphoric acid) etch and remove rust. Don’t forget to neutralize with water. I’ve seen good results with electrolysis. Converters chemically harden and allow rust to be painted in areas where mechanical and chemical process aren’t practical.

    Brand names are a personal choice and hard to recommend, most of them do the same job, but have more or less expensive marketing.

    Cut and weld, wire brush, etch, convert what’s left and then encapsulate. You will have a solid foundation and not have to worry about it again.
     
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  9. BLUPORT

    BLUPORT Carpe Diem Cras FCBO Gold Member

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    Wire brush, phosphoric acid soak, clean, POR-15, and be done.
     
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  10. mr. fix it

    mr. fix it Old Man with a Hat

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  11. 5wndwcpe

    5wndwcpe Active Member

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  12. BillGrissom

    BillGrissom Active Member

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    First, it is a myth that rust is like cancer and will inherently spread. The problem is that it provides porosity to allow moisture to reach bare steel. I agree w/ the above on eliminating as much loose rust as possible - down to shiny black steel, then a chemical that dissolves rust. Evapo-rust works best if you can submerge a part in it. If not, you must keep wet and covered w/ plastic for several days. POR-15 is very expensive. I have used Rust Destroyer, which comes in cans and spray. Used to be sold at Ace, but now you must buy at a specialty paint shop. It both converts rust and etches bare steel as a primer. Rust hasn't returned, but I have babied those cars.

    Re epoxy coatings, that is what Delorean Motors tried to realize a lifetime frame (epoxy coated steel) to complement their stainless body panels and exhaust. A British sports car (TYR?) did also w/ tubular steel. Both were horror-stories. There were small gaps in the epoxy coating from the factory, plus a rock strike exposed bare steel. Moisture then was drawn into the steel-epoxy gaps and caused much faster corrosion than if the parts had just been painted. Stories are that Delorean frames were rusting as they sat on dealer lots.
     
  13. 1970cat

    1970cat Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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  14. Dsertdog

    Dsertdog Old man with an old guitar, and a blue note. FCBO Gold Member

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    I like the idea of using Apple Cider Vinegar. It has a higher acidic contact than white vinegar and smells better!

    I got this strut arm from Mr. Murray Park. Covered it with blue shop towels, stuck it in a trash bag, and inundated the towels with vinegar. I wrapped up the trash bag and let it set about 48 hours, then removed the wrap.
    I took a piece of balled up aluminum foil and rubbed the part down. then rinsed and dried it.
    The results are shown below. The shiny areas were wire brushed using a drill press.
    Strut arm 1 .JPG
    There's obvious pitting, but any rust encapsulator will need a rough surface to adhere. Personally I believe the results were impressive!
    I'm looking forward to using vinegar on the floor to get rid of the rust and prevailing musty odor as well.
     
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  15. Dsertdog

    Dsertdog Old man with an old guitar, and a blue note. FCBO Gold Member

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    Ordered in some Rust Bullet products today and can't wait to try them.
    Thanks for everyone's help