Power Seat Rebuild Question

Interior

  1. bnz84

    bnz84 Active Member

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    Im rebuilding a 65 (I think) 6 way power seat and am wondering about the disassembly of the gear head from the screw jacks. I removed the roll pin but am not sure how the head comes off. Splines? Threaded? Or maybe it doesnt. Looks like others have done this (@Zymurgy) so want to ask before I do damage to this cool piece of engineering. thnx

    Power seat and 4 channel amp | For C Bodies Only Classic Mopar Forum

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  2. Zymurgy

    Zymurgy Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    I never separated the top gear from the bottom worm gear, I honestly don't see the point and won't take the chance of damaging it. I just disassembled cleaned it up and then put it back together with white lithium grease.
     
  3. bnz84

    bnz84 Active Member

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    thnx, but does the worm gear come out? Maybe once I get the rusted pivot/cotter pin out?
     
  4. Zymurgy

    Zymurgy Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Now I understand. I really thought it did. This evening I will go through and see if I have a detailed picture. I know I did not remove any cotter pins during the restoration, so it is possible I just soaked it in diesel, blew it out with compressed air and then packed it with new grease.
     
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  5. Zymurgy

    Zymurgy Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    I was able to locate my old pictures. I did not take it apart any further than you have right now.

    All I can say is it runs effortlessly now, so advance any further in the teardown at your own risk. It didn't seem to hurt my performance at all. Mine would barely move beforehand, and never had full range of movement.
     
  6. bnz84

    bnz84 Active Member

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    Thanks, I can complete the process as is but the roll pin led me down a "pull it off" path. I do think if I get the rusted pivot pin out and remove the entire leg then the worm gear may be a part of the inner leg and pull straight out from the top. Gotta be. Thanks for you comments

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  7. Zymurgy

    Zymurgy Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    I think you are right. I was fortunate that mine wasn't to rusty and it must have came apart pretty easy. I must have never taken a picture of it torn down. If I cleaned it and put it right back together I didn't take pictures.
     
  8. SpaceWagon

    SpaceWagon Active Member

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    Excellent info in this and the link to the other post.

    A question on rebuilding powerseats related to the actual cables

    - Are there any tips for repairing or sources to buy replacement ones ?

    Considering that many powerseat set-ups have had the cables cut finding an aftermarket one that fit and function to use as replacement would be helpful.
     
  9. bnz84

    bnz84 Active Member

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    I'm assuming you are talking about the metal flexible drive shafts and not the electrical stuff. Those OE shafts would be tuff to cut but your right if broken we would need something like this. I also see string trimmers with durable flex shafts. I think they do exist but getting them short may be a problem. Of course a shop press and die would work too. I included some random pics of my rebuild slowly progressing

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  10. bnz84

    bnz84 Active Member

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    I thought it might be useful to see the cleaned up guts before I begin assembly. this is only 1/2 of the track with a few pieces of the motor/transmission and the 6 way switch. None of the heavy metal frame is shown. For those that don't know each side has 2 legs with an internal worm gear that is turned by a cable. Legs go up/down independently and of course forward and backwards with a third rack and pinion type gear. So six ways. The motor looks to activate every time the switch is used and depending on the switch position will activate 1 of the 3 solenoids that will engage/disengage the 3 cables. Current through a coil retracts a metal plunger which engages a gear and without current a spring keeps the plunger out and unengaged One of the cables is rubber like a break hose and the other 2 are copper like in color and stiff. The solenoids got a dry graphite lube. Most everything else will get bearing grease. The worm gears took a beating with rust chewing up the post. I hope the thick grease fills in the gaps. The 6-way switch is cool with a few copper contacts that will get a smear of dielectric grease. Not sure what the silver metal is. Doesn't feel like aluminum and too nice to paint so just clear coat. Now I just have to get the motor working which it isn't yet. The shaft turns with pliers so not seized. The housing is not sealed so no telling what got in. Then onto the other side.


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