Power seat will not go back and forth.
- Thread starter NorMopar
- Start date
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Could it be the switch?
1. Service manual, Group 8--Power Seats. Get very familiar with the Electrical Tests described therein, which mainly focus on the connector to the switch assembly under the seat.
2. Since your seat works in other directions, you already know you have power to the switch, so the tests for power to that switch from under the dash aren't necessary.
3. In my experience, the tracks and motors/drive mechanism are built like a tank. The switch is the weakest link.
4. First test is to observe the dome light when you try to make the seat go back and forth. If it dims considerably more than in other directions that do work, that indicates that you may have a track jam or a bad motor/drive assembly.
5. If not, unplug connector from switch and get it out in the open so you can do the tests. Remember that the switch is always "hot", meaning it has power to it even when your ignition key is in your pocket, so be careful about making sparks somehow. Make the jumper-wire tests at the connector to see if your seat moves. If so, it's the switch.....which is very common.
The switch can be rebuilt if you're handy and it's not toast inside or you can deal with this guy, which is highly recommended: Devinism | eBay Stores
Before buying a new one ($$$$) or attempting to rebuild it, you might try HEAVILY blasting the internals of the switch with contact cleaner. Blast that thing! Blast it! But please protect your eyes in the process, as the cleaner coming off the switch can squirt in any direction and it prefers unprotected eyeballs.
2. Since your seat works in other directions, you already know you have power to the switch, so the tests for power to that switch from under the dash aren't necessary.
3. In my experience, the tracks and motors/drive mechanism are built like a tank. The switch is the weakest link.
4. First test is to observe the dome light when you try to make the seat go back and forth. If it dims considerably more than in other directions that do work, that indicates that you may have a track jam or a bad motor/drive assembly.
5. If not, unplug connector from switch and get it out in the open so you can do the tests. Remember that the switch is always "hot", meaning it has power to it even when your ignition key is in your pocket, so be careful about making sparks somehow. Make the jumper-wire tests at the connector to see if your seat moves. If so, it's the switch.....which is very common.
The switch can be rebuilt if you're handy and it's not toast inside or you can deal with this guy, which is highly recommended: Devinism | eBay Stores
Before buying a new one ($$$$) or attempting to rebuild it, you might try HEAVILY blasting the internals of the switch with contact cleaner. Blast that thing! Blast it! But please protect your eyes in the process, as the cleaner coming off the switch can squirt in any direction and it prefers unprotected eyeballs.
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Hi
The dome light does have a strong dim when I move the switch to go forward. Backwards not to much dimming. I will have to take the seat out to see what is going on. A friend of mine has a switch that I can borrow. Thanks so much for the info
I will try another switch. I will also remove the seat to see what is going on.Could it be the switch?
I will try another switch. I will also remove the seat to see what is going on.
Please let us know what you find.
Here are a few pictures of my electric seats as I was installing them in my 69 Fury , (Maybe you can use them as a reference)The power seat running gear came out of a 71 imperial . The seats are extremely heavy!!! Get help when removing and installing if it gets to that . Good luck
Any info available on that as far as anybody knows?
That's the understatement of the last half-century.....the seats weight approximately a gazillion pounds or kilos or newtons or whatever your reference system is. They're REALLY heavy and unwieldy.
Great pics, BTW!
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Not really anything specific. The contacts inside can be broken or melted (toast) or merely dirty and a bit corroded. In that case you polish the contacts with emery paper and/or a pencil eraser. Small tools like dental picks and tiny pliers are generally needed, and a small light-duty vise to hold the housing as you work on it is mandatory. The connector can also be your source of "no worky", too, if it doesn't make good contact with the pins on the backside of the switch (which is also why you do the FSM test).
The internals are small and tricky to get apart and reassemble, so if an owner considers installing breaker points to be a difficult task, I'd recommend to stay away and contact @Devinism .
But first try contact cleaner. Remove switch, spray, work the toggles, spray, work, spray, work, a final good spray, blow dry, install and try it out. Cost is almost free.
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Will do
rapidtrans
Senior Member
I just cleaned up my power seat track and got it working this weekend.
The old seat foam had powdered and crudded up the seat tracks and screw drives.
Seat move very slowly front to back and only up. Where it stayed for the last number of years.
Turns out I had one pin connector showing some corrosion. Cleaned the pin and the connector with emory cloth plugged, it all back together, now fully functional again.
I had anticipated pulling the switch apart also but lucked out.
The old seat foam had powdered and crudded up the seat tracks and screw drives.
Seat move very slowly front to back and only up. Where it stayed for the last number of years.
Turns out I had one pin connector showing some corrosion. Cleaned the pin and the connector with emory cloth plugged, it all back together, now fully functional again.
I had anticipated pulling the switch apart also but lucked out.
If not mentioned already,with the seat out,lube the crap outa the tracks and worm gears.
rapidtrans
Senior Member
I used the spray lube my garage door guy gave me for the gear drive and rollers. Doesn’t gum-up in the cold nor collect dust and dirt.
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