I have been thru about ten adjustments, and still have back and forth. So, have ordered another dial indicator, and will in future adjust about 2 mils at a time, and maybe then will see what is going on here. I have scribed the flat surface, and tried to use small movements, to no avail. Driving me to drink.....chrysler power steering. Thinking of new, not rebuilt, gear by Lares???
Power steering hyd valve adjustment.....aaargh
- Thread starter 66furys
- Start date
3C's & a D?
Senior Member
Have you got the wheels up? There are a few threads here that detail the correct procedure. It's a pretty easy job, so I'm willing to bet you're missing a step.
3C's & a D?
Senior Member
After a reread of your post, what do you mean by "still have back and forth"? Steering wheel play? Adjusting the valve will not correct that.
330dTA
Senior Member
Are you trying to adjust the steering gear (by the nut on top of it)? Or the pump? (You cannot adjust the pump.)
Adjusting the top nut on the steering gear is easy. Follow the FSM (Factory Service Manual). Contrary to what is claimed above, it will take off some of the slack in the steering wheel (been there, done that), although if there is a huge amount of slack (like 30 degrees ) it means your car's front end has something needing checking, and possibly replacement (the steering shaft rag joint, the pitman arm bushing, the idler arm bushing, the lower control arm bushings, the lower and upper ball joints, roughly in that order).
To decrease the line pressure (and consequently, the amount of power assist) in a Saginaw pump (oval neck in the reservoir) you can add a thin washer or two under the pressure valve (low, behind the pump; on the driver's side). If you have the Chrysler pump (round neck) the pressure valve is inside the pump, and you better leave it to an expert.
Adjusting the top nut on the steering gear is easy. Follow the FSM (Factory Service Manual). Contrary to what is claimed above, it will take off some of the slack in the steering wheel (been there, done that), although if there is a huge amount of slack (like 30 degrees ) it means your car's front end has something needing checking, and possibly replacement (the steering shaft rag joint, the pitman arm bushing, the idler arm bushing, the lower control arm bushings, the lower and upper ball joints, roughly in that order).
To decrease the line pressure (and consequently, the amount of power assist) in a Saginaw pump (oval neck in the reservoir) you can add a thin washer or two under the pressure valve (low, behind the pump; on the driver's side). If you have the Chrysler pump (round neck) the pressure valve is inside the pump, and you better leave it to an expert.
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The title of my rant has to do with the hyd valve adjust on the steering gear......this absurdly ridiculous small adjustment that results in self steer first R then L, even though I have scribed the flat surface and tried to move it one RCH. So that is why I will try the dial indicator so that I can totally control the amount of movement in future. Not sure my steering gear is well, since I cannot properly adjust the gear play.....first one I have ever seen that gets tight and still has play, gear backlash. And further, the input shaft will move axially when running thru the gear backlash, so there may be some internal problems. I have talked to three rebuilders with not much help on these small points. But, still want to do my best before sending this one into the abyss. There is no slop in the input flex joints, nor any I can see in the steering linkage below.....I am looking at the output of the pitman steer box arm for fine adjust, not the wheels. What I cannot determine, is whether this axial play in the input, could cause some problems with the hydraulic spool valve, if the piston, etc is loose.....One of these days I will try a road test after doing my best to settle things down.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Maybe it's time to have Firm Feel or Steer & Gear rebuild it
I am slow, and with some other things to do, I finally got my dial indicator onto the hyd valve. And, voila, moved it between 2 and 3 mils.....a bad angle on the dial. And when I started it, it got just a hint of left turn. So, next time, I will move 1 mil more, and try again. But, I can tell you that these moves are too small to see w/o a gauge. Some of the rebuilders evidently use air pressure on the bench.....hmmm.
I have kicked the valve another 1 mil...very careful to get a better angle on the dial this time. But, in the process, I note a definite clunk as I turn the input shaft by hand.....I also re-adjusted the gear lash....but there are some real issues inside. Will continue for now to see where it goes with this box, but am sure it needs surgery. Too bad.
So started the engine again, after another carb removal, with engine doing better. And, surprise of surprises, the wheel did not take off either way. There may have been a wiggle, I was not paying close enough attention, and this always seems worse on first start after sitting. So, the dial indicator and moving very small amounts paid off.....I will monitor for any more movements of the valve. But, after 10 or 12 tries at just scribing and trying various techniques, this seems to work. Measured small moves.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Glad you fixed it!
3175375
Senior Member
You’ll know when you get some seat time in it. Good work and hats off to you for keeping your nose to the grindstone!
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