Power window 1968 Chrysler ** UPDATE**

GOLDMYN

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Hi, Working on my NewYorker to get the power window driver front to work, when I push button, I do get buzzing sound so 1/2 the battle. my question, do I have to take the glass out also to take the motor out or as I think the FSM says unbolt motor/slide and pull it out, just trying to save some time. thanks

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I think you have to take out the whole lifting mechanism but not the glass. BE CAREFUL when you remove the motor from the mechanism, the spring is wound up and when it lets go you can easily lose a finger! You should always put it in a vise before unbolting the motor. Nice car. Is this the one with the TNT engine?
 

Ross Wooldridge

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If you leave the window up, then leave the regulator hooked up to the window (leave the arm and roller IN the channel that's connected to the bottom of the glass) and you can remove the motor from the regulator. The window glass and the fact that the regulator is bolted down will prevent the assist spring from creating havoc in the door panel if you were to try to remove the motor from the regulator in the door with the regulator arm not in the glass channel. If you did that, the arm would whip around, and possibly cut your fingers off.

The caveat of trying to remove the motor from the regulator is that the bolts that hold it down are hard to get at in the door. This is why people wind up unbolting the regulator, and then try to remove the motor with disastrous results.

Best bet, since it's the front door (and it's WAY easier to remove the regulator from a 2 door door rather than the rear quarter!), is to put the window up, and put something through a hole in the door panel frame to hold the glass up (like a screw driver shaft) once the regulator is removed and isn't holding up the glass. Unbolt the regulator assembly (don't touch the motor bolts), and as noted above, remove the entire regulator and motor assembly from the door. You'll need to slide the regulator forward or back to get the roller out of the track on the bottom of the glass.

However, BEFORE you go to all the trouble to do this, try testing the assembly to see if the problem is NOT the motor.

Disconnect the motor from the wiring harness - unplug the motor connector from the wiring coming to it from the switch. The motor operates with a common ground (motor bolted to the car body), and one wire in the connector is UP, and the other DOWN. Using a stand alone 12V battery, connect the Negative to a bolt on the door, and then connect 12V Positive alternatively to each tab on the motor pigtail. If the motor moves, then the motor is not the problem, and the issue exists further back towards the switch. At this point you'll need to see if there are wires pinched etc., between the switch and the motor. When going through wiring, always disconnect the car's battery first. This is especially important with the power windows, as they're always hot, even with the key off and out.

Likely though, from your description, the issue IS the motor, and it needs to be replaced or rebuilt. So, if testing proves the motor is at fault, remove the whole regulator and motor assembly from the door as described above.

Once you have it on the bench, removing the motor from the regulator has its own dangers, as noted above in @bronze turbine's post. Immobilize the regulator arm so that the assist spring does not make the arm swing around when you remove the motor bolts. Some arms have holes in them to put a bolt through, or clamp the regulator down in the vice to prevent movement.

Safety first in this instance.
 

GOLDMYN

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I think you have to take out the whole lifting mechanism but not the glass. BE CAREFUL when you remove the motor from the mechanism, the spring is wound up and when it lets go you can easily lose a finger! You should always put it in a vise before unbolting the motor. Nice car. Is this the one with the TNT engine?
Thank-you, yes TNT engine, 3:23 axle and original owner ordered HD suspension

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twostick

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What I have done in the past is with the window up, pull the door panel off and then locate the 3 bolts that hold the motor to the regulator and drill a hole through the inner door over each bolt so you can get a 1/4 drive socket on them.

This eliminates the possibility of bloodshed from the clockspring coming unglued and makes changing the motor a 5 minute job now and in the future.

You can literally reach in through the bottom of the door to the motor with 1 hand and spin the 3 bolts out with the other.

The door panel covers any evidence of the 3 holes. IIRC a 3/8 drill is sufficient. An 1/8 or smaller pilot hole to start is a good idea.

Kevin
 

GOLDMYN

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What I have done in the past is with the window up, pull the door panel off and then locate the 3 bolts that hold the motor to the regulator and drill a hole through the inner door over each bolt so you can get a 1/4 drive socket on them.

This eliminates the possibility of bloodshed from the clockspring coming unglued and makes changing the motor a 5 minute job now and in the future.

You can literally reach in through the bottom of the door to the motor with 1 hand and spin the 3 bolts out with the other.

The door panel covers any evidence of the 3 holes. IIRC a 3/8 drill is sufficient. An 1/8 or smaller pilot hole to start is a good idea.

Kevin
The more I examine your solution, the more I like it, any hints on locating the 3 bolts (motor) holes needed ?
 

twostick

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The more I examine your solution, the more I like it, any hints on locating the 3 bolts (motor) holes needed ?

You can sorta kind of see them by peering through the gap between the door and the regulator. Not a lot of room or light to see so a good small bright LED helps to put some light on the subject. Depending on how good your precision depth perception is, your small pilot holes should land pretty close to the bolt head so you can judge if another shot is necessary.

If I'm taking them out of a donor that doesn't matter, I just drill a big hole close and use some snips and a screwdriver to pry whatever clearance I need to get the socket on.

Kevin
 

GOLDMYN

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Update on PW progress; well, I drilled the 3 holes as suggested. motor came out perfect. hooked up the original switch which is still connect to factory harness. motor spun freely w/o issue. Anyone with an idea what might be stopping the window from up and down?

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detmatt

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Remove whatever that is and take the gear cover off. You will likely find a crumbled mess inside.
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detmatt

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Then refer to the ever famous power window motor rebuild thread for directions on the easy fix.
 

Ross Wooldridge

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Also, see if the window can be lifted up and down by hand. If it's binding in the tracks and/or the regulator roller is toasted that could overpower the motor.
 

detmatt

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If the gear on the motor spins you need to replace the regulator because the teeth are probably worn or missing creating a dead spot.
 

Camshaft

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Looks to me that someone has already removed that motor once, hence the rivet. Should be a screw holding the little cover plate on. While you have it out, take the cover plate off and check out the rest of the gears and pucks inside. Could be just enough shrapnel left to spin the outside gear, but not enough oommph (real word!) to raise the heavy window. While you have it out, clean it up, rebuild it and fill with grease. Lots of info on this site to do that. Also, check the roller is intact and hasn't come out of the tracks or is binding in there somewhere. BTW, Thanks for the photos for the location of the holes to drill, I am about to do all my windows. Very helpful. C Shaft
 

GOLDMYN

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glad the pix helped, I'll take it apart tomorrow and inspect the regulator for damage
 
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