WANTED Power window door switch mounts

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Just the mounting frame

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Just a suggestion....when you do find your frames you might want to reinforce the panel with some thin sheetmetal glued (epoxied) to the backside of the panel. This gives the tabs on the frame something to hold onto vs. old, tattered cardboard. It really solidifies the the switches in the panel.

Old tattered cardboard

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Reinforced with thin sheetmetal


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Driver's door with the big switch, same thing

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I have to rebuild my door panels entirely and have been toying with the idea of either ABS or aluminum instead of the hard board. That should solve that mounting issue.
 
I have to rebuild my door panels entirely and have been toying with the idea of either ABS or aluminum instead of the hard board. That should solve that mounting issue.

That certainly would, and it would be a great How-To post similar to Big_John's nice work.
Door Panel repair

But I wonder if either material would be a rattling nightmare against the door metal? Maybe particle board might be more suitable, and you'll get another 52 years out of it......

Panel Board-Waterproof-Kraft Tan for Auto Upholstery
 
I'm not familiar with these....does the frame also hold the switch connector in place or does it attach to the switch and then snap into the frame?
 
Tabs fold over cardboard. Switch snaps in place and can be pulled out seperately. I have a few of the frames I think and you can have them if they can be located tomorrow. How quick you need them?
 
I'm not in a hurry...I want to rebuild my door panels first. I'm just not sure if the plug stays in the frame when you remove the switch. It would be a great help if you found a couple. I'd gladly pay for them.
 
Tabs fold over cardboard. Switch snaps in place and can be pulled out seperately. I have a few of the frames I think and you can have them if they can be located tomorrow. How quick you need them?

Exactly. Frames are a "permanent" part of the cardboard panel, except when the cardboard is junk and the frame pulls out with the switch like this:
Ugh!
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When the tab areas of the cardboard are reinforced with some sheetmetal, the frames stay put.

In this pic, you can see the four black "spring clips" at the four corners that click into small round studs inside the frame...and those spring clips hold tenaciously, thus the tabs pulling out of the old crappy cardboard.

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And finally, this is the switch slightly popped out of the frame and the awful black connector that started failing in 1972. That's why I soldered pigtails directly to the switch pins, to eliminate that terrible connector and essentially make a new harness. You can also see the small round stud in the frame that engages the switches' spring clips.

IMG_0638.JPG
 
Exactly. Frames are a "permanent" part of the cardboard panel, except when the cardboard is junk and the frame pulls out with the switch like this:
Ugh!
View attachment 318426

When the tab areas of the cardboard are reinforced with some sheetmetal, the frames stay put.

In this pic, you can see the four black "spring clips" at the four corners that click into small round studs inside the frame...and those spring clips hold tenaciously, thus the tabs pulling out of the old crappy cardboard.

View attachment 318427

And finally, this is the switch slightly popped out of the frame and the awful black connector that started failing in 1972. That's why I soldered pigtails directly to the switch pins, to eliminate that terrible connector and essentially make a new harness. You can also see the small round stud in the frame that engages the switches' spring clips.

View attachment 318428
I will be stealing that idea thank you vey much. Mine has always been troublesome....the pigtail/plug concept.
 
Mine dont have that stud...mine are 67...flat side clips....still very strong and hard to remove from the frame. I'm planning on making new door panels...either abs or aluminum...so they should hold up well.
 
I made door cards for my spitfire out of clear polycarbonate. Stuff actually holds a bead roll. 1/8(3mil) I think. Easy to see where tabs go. Incredibly strong.
 
I start my spiel at Post #6. Power Window Switch

This upgrade is quite easy, EXCEPT that you have to be an efficient solderer. You don't want to put much heat into those pins and ruin the guts of the switch. So you want the pins to be scuffed clean of tarnish, and you want to quickly "tin" those pins with some flux solder. And you tin the bare wire ends. Then you quickly as possible solder the wires to the pins. Immediately blast a completed pin with compressed air to cool it...or have an accomplice do it.

And you HAVE to really understand your schematic and label those many wires before you cut off the OEM connector, otherwise you're in electrical chaos.
 
My battery, reg, relay and fuse panel are in the trunk so this chaos and I are familiar foes. Love the idea and do appreciate the technical advice. Getting all the windows properly working is a major goal in my projects and your method eliminates a real problem area. Thanks again.
 
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