Power Window Switch

dart4forte

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
602
Reaction score
415
Location
Mesa AZ
65 Chrysler 300, working on my passenger side quarter window switch. Have the switch our and unplugged. Being it’s a 5 gang switch I’m not sure on the connections. I do have power to the center post, it’s the other 4 I don’t know.

Also, anyone know where Ican get the connector depicted in the picture

6E728422-D14F-49A7-9747-6C783FCAF5E1.jpeg


3AC7B536-C145-4379-852C-3BB323076593.jpeg
 
The ones I've seen have a brass/cad color to them. There are some where the wire comes in at a right angle and others where the wire comes in "straight on" (as the Ford example). We had some in an old assortment of terminals, but that was 40 years ago. Not sure if the Standard Parts section of the Chrysler parts catalog might have a number on something of that nature?

CBODY67
 
So, I need to get the window back up.is there a way to jump the motor directly?

The yellow wire is hot.

Two gray wires, one with a stripe

Two green wires, one with a stripe

Need to get the window back up so I can get another switch coming.

I should note I lowered the window from the main switch so now it won’t come back up from either switch
 
So, I need to get the window back up.is there a way to jump the motor directly?

The yellow wire is hot.

Two gray wires, one with a stripe

Two green wires, one with a stripe

Need to get the window back up so I can get another switch coming.

I should note I lowered the window from the main switch so now it won’t come back up from either switch

Disconnect the motor from the harness. Very simple from there. There are two wires running to the motor. Connect negative to one and positive to the other. If the window goes up, great. If it tries to go down, reverse the wires.
 
I have completely bypassed those awful, worn-out connectors by soldering pigtails to the pins and using insulated butt connectors to the OEM harness.

From this rat's nest of high resistance:
IMG_0637.JPG


To this. Orange wires are 12G, whites ares 14, in accordance with the OEM harness.
IMG_0685.JPG


IMG_0677.JPG


IMG_0678.JPG


Did same on passenger side, too. All windows now work, because they now have sweet 'lectricity.
 
My method was to lightly file the pins with a jewler's file to get ALL tarnish removed.

Then you carefully and quickly "tin" those pins with a thin application of solder. Remember that you're working near plastic so be quick about it. I recommend a quality precision iron, not something used for sheetmetal work.

Then you tin the ends of your pigtails, with about 1/4 inch of insulation removed. Try to leave a little blob of solder on the wire. Not a big blob, just a generous coating. This will be the solder that holds the two together.

Then you hold that tinned wire against the pin and quickly melt the solder on both items, focusing on that little blob. When that melts, you're done.

If you're not a skilled solder guy, you could take your prepared components to a geek/repair place and have them do it in 15 minutes. I highly recommend you label your pigtails with the color code. Also, please note that it can be REALLY confusing when looking at the FSM diagram vs. the real thing, because the view in the FSM is backwards or mirror image or something. Maybe it's the back of the switch that's depicted, NOT the front of the OEM connector. Or the opposite...I forget. Anyway....it's not intuitive when looking at the diagram so be careful. The good news is, if you screw it up and the wrong window moves the wrong way, you can move the bullet connectors around until you get it right. :eek:

Here's a pic of the pigtail version vs. the OEM connector (that I laid out with the crappy terminals in their proper places.


IMG_0681.JPG


IMG_0682.JPG
 
Last edited:
My method was to lightly file the pins with a jewler's file to get ALL tarnish removed.

Then you carefully and quickly "tin" those pins with a thin application of solder. Remember that you're working near plastic so be quick about it. I recommend a quality precision iron, not something used for sheetmetal work.

Then you tin the ends of your pigtails, with about 1/4 inch of insulation removed. Try to leave a little blob of solder on the wire. Not a big blob, just a generous coating. This will be the solder that holds the two together.

Then you hold that tinned wire against the pin and quickly melt the solder on both items, focusing on that little blob. When that melts, you're done.

If you're not a skilled solder guy, you could take your prepared components to a geek/repair place and have them do it in 15 minutes. I highly recommend you label your pigtails with the color code. It can be REALLY confusing when looking at the FSM diagram vs. the real thing, because the view in the FSM is backwards or mirror image or something. Maybe it's the back of the switch that's depicted, NOT the front of the OEM connector. Or the opposite...I forget. Anyway....it's not intuitive when looking at the diagram so be careful. The good news is, if you screw it up and the wrong window moves the wrong way, you can move the bullet connectors around until you get it right. :eek:

Here's a pic of the pigtail version vs. the OEM connector (that I laid out with the crappy terminals in their proper places.


View attachment 247791

View attachment 247790
This looks amazing! Thanks for sharing. Want to do this on my Imperial!
 
Back
Top