Putting your car on a diet -- ideas on where to shave weight

WissaMan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2018
Messages
582
Reaction score
600
Location
Northeast PA, 10 minutes from Knoebels Grove
I don't normally think about a C-body and weight reduction at the same time. With the 68 Newport I'm working on, however, I'm making it one of the project's parameters. Now, I'm not talking extreme steps, like acid dipping the fenders. But things that are within reach of a DIYer like myself I'm interested in.

It's already a low-option car -- no AC and crank windows. I assume those two things right there amount to 100+ lbs. I've got an aluminum intake on the engine and an aluminum radiator ready to go in.

But I'm sure there are some other ways to save real weight. Perhaps by swapping iron things for aluminum versions. Smaller more modern versions of the original components (like a newer starter?). I'm open to deleting things altogether, though I don't want to go nuts, I still want it to be a comfortable and functional driver.
 
What engine?

There were aluminum head slant sixes and aluminum case 4 speed overdrives.

You got a hole saw?

Just kidding, good luck.

:poke:
 
I don't normally think about a C-body and weight reduction at the same time. With the 68 Newport I'm working on, however, I'm making it one of the project's parameters. Now, I'm not talking extreme steps, like acid dipping the fenders. But things that are within reach of a DIYer like myself I'm interested in.

It's already a low-option car -- no AC and crank windows. I assume those two things right there amount to 100+ lbs. I've got an aluminum intake on the engine and an aluminum radiator ready to go in.

But I'm sure there are some other ways to save real weight. Perhaps by swapping iron things for aluminum versions. Smaller more modern versions of the original components (like a newer starter?). I'm open to deleting things altogether, though I don't want to go nuts, I still want it to be a comfortable and functional driver.

1. Bucket seats rather than bench depending on what you have.
2. Aluminum radiator, intake and heads as previously noted.
3. Depending how radical you want to be-fiberglass hood or lose it completely if you have a wild hair across your ***.
4. Driveshaft mod
5. Calipers instead of drums
6. Headers rather than log manifolds?
7. Aluminum rims
 
Last edited:
I don't want to go nuts, I still want it to be a comfortable and functional driver.

If you want it to be a nice, comfortable driver then why are you looking to shave weight? Seems rather pointless to me.

Now if you're going racing, the old rule-of-thumb is 100lb off = 1/10th sec. Does that seem worth it for a street car?

Easiest way to shave weight - remove the interior, spare tire & jack. Next step scrape all sound deadening and seam sealer. After that replace glass with lexan and bumpers with fiberglass. Then lighter wheels. Then do as tallhair said and get the hole saw out.
 
Thanks for the suggestions so far. Aluminum water pump and headers (I'm assuming shorties) is the kind of ideas I'm looking for. Scraping off the sound deadening or removing interior, not so much. I'd be interested in fiberglass items but are any available for a 68 Newport?

What is the driveshaft mod?

Oh, and I only weigh 145 so not much to loose there :rolleyes:
 
Thanks for the suggestions so far. Aluminum water pump and headers (I'm assuming shorties) is the kind of ideas I'm looking for. Scraping off the sound deadening or removing interior, not so much. I'd be interested in fiberglass items but are any available for a 68 Newport?

What is the driveshaft mod?

Oh, and I only weigh 145 so not much to loose there :rolleyes:
Aluminum drive shaft

Magnesium wheels (this saved me 10 lbs at each wheel from stamped steel)

dump the exhaust in front of the rear wheels

mini starter
 
Start with the radiator!!!!

26804818_796605960532676_6944146528525671747_n.jpg
 
I'm wondering what is your goal? Fuel economy? Better handling? Better acceleration? We all have, at least, slightly different ideas of what our cars should be. An indication of your concept could lead to more "focused" responses. Just my "5 cents worth"! Lindsay
 
I'm wondering what is your goal? Fuel economy? Better handling? Better acceleration? We all have, at least, slightly different ideas of what our cars should be. An indication of your concept could lead to more "focused" responses. Just my "5 cents worth"! Lindsay

It's not so much the goal, it's the result, which would be all of those things you mentioned. Yes, I know better acceleration can be gained with more power. Better handing with improved suspension. Fuel economy with a smaller/tamer engine. But reducing weight leads to improvements in all those areas. It's a 3-for-1 deal :thumbsup:

I don't really have an over-arching concept. i.e. stripped drag car. Rather, I'm looking for sensible ways to reduce weight that will result in those multiple benefits. If a couple hundred pounds could be shaved off "without knowing it" (except in the pocketbook of course) that's what I'm looking for. I don't see any downside. Except of course, as said, cost of the parts.
 
How about the very abbreviated version?
The father of a guy I worked with had one for sale. It was dirt cheap, had a bad frame rail. Otherwise it was pretty nice. This was about 1982 or so.

I had a 69 383 Dart that someone had put fender well headers on and I needed patch panels and I figured that if nothing else, I'd use the panels.

I went up to pick it up with my buddy Charlie. I paid the guy and Charlie said "I want to drive the Dart". Charlie had '68 340 Dart that he raced. We got to the first stop sign and he flashes his lights and jumps out. I figure there's something wrong... We're an hour from home too. He's really animated and he's yelling "I want this car!!!". Charlie was/still is a great friend and I couldn't say no, so I tell him we'll just take it to his place. So... I owned it for about 5 minutes.

He still owns the car! Won a Galen Govier award at the Englishtown Mopar show with it too!
 
I don't think you're going to lose enough to make a difference, I may be wrong. You're essentially taking off one iron cylinder head by going to aluminum heads, at $1k minimum, water pump and housing $250+, mini starter I like no matter what $100+, Aluminum intake, $125+ used, headers $300+ used, $650+ new.

You'll probably drop 100lbs, maybe a few more, but I don't think it will be noticable. The car was designed to handle with the heavy weight. It's already got beefier steering and suspension components, compared to a A body, those parts are huge. Sure, the 100lbs will be nice to have off, but seat of the pants feel will remain the same. At a cost of $1700+.

And I forgot about the radiator. 25lbs? And those aren't cheap for a quality unit. You may get lucky with a Chinese unit, I did.

I've done the lighter parts route before, and I'd do it again with the right car. But I did it over time, and because those were the parts I had, converting an RV engine over for a car. Radiator and headers came later as the stock parts failed, and pissed me off, respectively.


*Headers priced for coated version.

Here's an old thread from FABO about iron vs aluminum.

Exhaust manifold weight?
 
I don't think you're going to lose enough to make a difference, I may be wrong. You're essentially taking off one iron cylinder head by going to aluminum heads, at $1k minimum, water pump and housing $250+, mini starter I like no matter what $100+, Aluminum intake, $125+ used, headers $300+ used, $650+ new.

You'll probably drop 100lbs, maybe a few more, but I don't think it will be noticable. The car was designed to handle with the heavy weight. It's already got beefier steering and suspension components, compared to a A body, those parts are huge. Sure, the 100lbs will be nice to have off, but seat of the pants feel will remain the same. At a cost of $1700+.

And I forgot about the radiator. 25lbs? And those aren't cheap for a quality unit. You may get lucky with a Chinese unit, I did.

I've done the lighter parts route before, and I'd do it again with the right car. But I did it over time, and because those were the parts I had, converting an RV engine over for a car. Radiator and headers came later as the stock parts failed, and pissed me off, respectively.


*Headers priced for coated version.

Here's an old thread from FABO about iron vs aluminum.

Exhaust manifold weight?

I really have to agree here.

The C body is a heavy car to begin with and weight reduction is really more about percentage of reduction rather than pounds off. It's diminishing returns for the money and time spent. 100 pounds off a 3000 lb A body will give you a lot more than 100 lbs off a 4500 lb C body.

I've done weight reduction on drag cars and even seen where keeping a stock appearance got into using titanium fasteners (saw them used in some well known super stock cars). Some stuff makes sense, but really most weight reduction comes with a price. For example, scrapping the sound deadening off is almost free, but it makes the car noisier. An aluminum water pump housing saves some weight, but it's dollars spent that could be better spent elsewhere.

BTW, I'll bet the aluminum radiator is heavier. After reading the threads here, the aluminum radiators have larger capacity and therefore more water... Last time I threw water in the air, it came back down, so it's too heavy.
 
Many folks want bigger 15X8 rallies or magnum 500’s. Well great, it looks cool, but those are Heavy! Like 28lbs per wheel. Then the bid tire you put on it. Most go BFG radial TA tires which don’t have very good traction with a BB mopar no matter how large they are.

Rotating weight costs you performance and gas to get going and harder on the brakes to stop them.

so go narrower wheels, preferably aluminum.

yes the radiator, get the smallest one that will cool your car. Coolant is over 9lbs per gallon!
 
Back
Top