Hey everyone, My radiator in my 68' Chrysler 300 is on the way out the door because it has started leaking in two spots. Should I get the original radiator rebuilt or should I go and upgrade to a aluminum radiator? If I go for an aluminum radiator what brands are good?
Radiator recommendations
- Thread starter Garrett
- Start date
If it's rebuildable, I'd have that done.
If not, you can buy a new one from Rockauto:
1968 CHRYSLER 300 7.2L 440cid V8 Radiator | RockAuto
If not, you can buy a new one from Rockauto:
1968 CHRYSLER 300 7.2L 440cid V8 Radiator | RockAuto
Ill keep the one from rock auto in mind. I've had trouble finding a place mear me that rebuild these radiators.
I would have your radiator rebuilt. If it is a two row, consider going to a three row, narrow fin core for additional cooling for those hot summer days.
live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
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I would consider rebuilding your original. You can also order them from Autozone and pick it up locally in order to save on shipping.
I'm in Tennessee so any way I could get it to be cooler during mid summer i'd be happy. I could be wrong but I think the original radiator in the 300 is a 3- row
Personally and respectfully, I do not like the current aluminum radiators as they are not rebuildable, like the copper and plastic/aluminum radiators are. When that aluminum core gets gunked-up, time for a new one.
Especially, but a good idea anyway, is to ALSO seriously consider changing the block core plugs and flushing out the coolant passagesin the block when you do so. Gunk will accumulate in the lowest parts of the block, which is toward the rear. Doing the radiator, in an older car, is only HALF of the situation, but one which usually can get the easiest results.
In looking for a radiator shop, seek out the one most of the body shops or HD truck dealers use. Being higher volume than a neighborhood shop, they might also be more cost-conscious in their pricing and have resources to get a new, quality radiator, if needed. Use RockAuto and AutoZone for shopping and pricing purposes, to see what's out there and at what price.
In the 1970s-1990s, I usually would get a new OEM-quality Modine 332 for my cars as I could buy them for just a bit more than a local shop would charge for a re-core. Never had an issue with them, but those options are not there anymore.
CBODY67
Especially, but a good idea anyway, is to ALSO seriously consider changing the block core plugs and flushing out the coolant passagesin the block when you do so. Gunk will accumulate in the lowest parts of the block, which is toward the rear. Doing the radiator, in an older car, is only HALF of the situation, but one which usually can get the easiest results.
In looking for a radiator shop, seek out the one most of the body shops or HD truck dealers use. Being higher volume than a neighborhood shop, they might also be more cost-conscious in their pricing and have resources to get a new, quality radiator, if needed. Use RockAuto and AutoZone for shopping and pricing purposes, to see what's out there and at what price.
In the 1970s-1990s, I usually would get a new OEM-quality Modine 332 for my cars as I could buy them for just a bit more than a local shop would charge for a re-core. Never had an issue with them, but those options are not there anymore.
CBODY67
I just had the radiator re-cored on my '64 Chrysler. Not cheap, it will run about $800 for the correct brass core with the labor. I still prefer to keep the brass as they hold up better.
Dave
Dave
carrman
Senior Member
Get a Cold Case. They have radiators specifically for a C body. I run one and love it.
Mudeblue
Well-Known Member
Stay away from Griffin. They mis-manufactured an $845 aluminum radiator for me and refused to stand behind it! See my lengthy post on the subject. STAY AWAY!
I agree w/ @Snotty, @FURYGT,@Davea Lux. My personal preference is to re-core. Inherent problems w/ the aluminum radiators is they can"t be serviced (re-corded). A short term fix. Aluminum radiators in long term service have problems w/ electrolysis which renders it a through away radiator.
JimmyG
Member
Greetings. I had mine re-cored with two 1" tubes (rows). They held 3/4 of a gallon more, fit well, flowed very well and worked better than the 3 tube core it replaced. Just a quick measurement at the shop and you will know. Nobody looking at the rad can tell, if you are concerned about factory appearance. Good luck. Also, I used this rad with a 440 pulling a trailer and sitting in traffic. It was well worth the money.
I probably read the same article or one that said the same thing.
I questioned about the claim of "better cooling" with an aluminum rad seller. He finally admitted it was because the aluminum rad was thicker and had more rows.
Mudeblue
Well-Known Member
But, but, but, it is all about looks! Given the amount of $$,$$$ I stuck in it over the last three years, “neither rain, nor snow, nor hail” will touch it’s surface!
I'll chime in on the aluminum vs. brass/copper.
When we built the 401 for the Gremlin, we replaced the 6 cylinder factory radiator for a Griffin. It worked, but I never liked the idea that it didn't have a petcock. Then it started to hold heat in a big way. I swapped ot for a factory V8 radiator from Rockauto. In addition to it being two inches wider than the Griffin, it has cooled much better. I would agree with staying with the original style.
I know Garret has already said he doesn't have a radiator shop near him, but I will add I had a third row added to both the '62 New Yorker I owned, as well as my current '70 Newport. Great way to go.
When we built the 401 for the Gremlin, we replaced the 6 cylinder factory radiator for a Griffin. It worked, but I never liked the idea that it didn't have a petcock. Then it started to hold heat in a big way. I swapped ot for a factory V8 radiator from Rockauto. In addition to it being two inches wider than the Griffin, it has cooled much better. I would agree with staying with the original style.
I know Garret has already said he doesn't have a radiator shop near him, but I will add I had a third row added to both the '62 New Yorker I owned, as well as my current '70 Newport. Great way to go.
Here is my aluminum radiator that has served me well for a number of years. You will find people complaining about every brand and this one is no exception but I'm happy so far. I wanted a more factory look so I hit it with ultra high heat grill paint.
26″ Big Block Mopar Radiator
26″ Big Block Mopar Radiator
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
For a good deal on an aluminum radiator, go to this guy: ECP | No Gimmick Cooling He builds some solid radiators for a good price. For ANY aluminum radiator, GET A ZINC ANODE, GROUND IT TO YOUR BATTERY, and make sure you have no extraneous electrical ground currents running through your radiator yoke. I found that Cold Case cools well for a year or 2, but their aluminum is very prone to dissolution even when grounded. The ECP radiators hold up better, but DO follow their anode directions scrupulously.
You really should try to get your original radiator repaired though. The old copper radiators cool better per unit volume, just as copper conducts better per unit volume. Be this as it may, it's also more expensive, and a bit more fragile. I use a 1965 radiator on our '68 Newport, which cools marvellously well, despite its age and patches. I recently bought another of the exact same model, had it rodded and sealed too, to keep as a handy spare in case this one springs a BAD leak.
A re-core will run you likely between $700-1100. You can buy two aluminum radiators for that kind of bread. It comes down to what you want, and what you have to spend.
You really should try to get your original radiator repaired though. The old copper radiators cool better per unit volume, just as copper conducts better per unit volume. Be this as it may, it's also more expensive, and a bit more fragile. I use a 1965 radiator on our '68 Newport, which cools marvellously well, despite its age and patches. I recently bought another of the exact same model, had it rodded and sealed too, to keep as a handy spare in case this one springs a BAD leak.
A re-core will run you likely between $700-1100. You can buy two aluminum radiators for that kind of bread. It comes down to what you want, and what you have to spend.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
I see you too dig Chuck Watson's wares. He makes a good aluminum radiator for the $, and makes them FIT our C bodies.
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