Radiator repair

[kenfyoozed]

I pulled the radiator on my '67 newport as it was leaking. I found there is a long crack from front to back on the bottom. I assume this material is aluminum but I am not sure. It has a gold tone to it. Would it be possible this bottom part of the radiator is brass, bronze, or copper? It was covered in green corrosion as well. This looks to be the original radiator. I hope to be able to braze this up as soon as I know what material it is.

 

[CBODY67]

All parts are brass, soldered together with lead solder. By observation, there are apparently different qualities of lead solder in the radiator shop industry. Reason I say that is that when there were radiator shops in every small town, those clean and re-solder jobs usually lasted about two years. Similar repair from a big-city high volume shop lasted several years longer. Solder cracks were the issue, rather than it breaking loose from poor adhesion.

Be sure to check the thinness of the flange where the crack is. It might be too thin to clean and "make solid" again. The color of the corrosion you found is from the (generally) green-colored antifreeze used in normal vehicles (meaning non-DexCool or any other special later-model coolant).

It would be best to get everything apart, as the heat you might apply to that area could melt the existing solder between the flange and the tank, causing more work than you might have desired. IF you clean one side, the other side will still be "dirty", so that would compromise any "in-place" repair you might make.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[cbarge]

I pulled the radiator on my '67 newport as it was leaking. I found there is a long crack from front to back on the bottom. I assume this material is aluminum but I am not sure. It has a gold tone to it. Would it be possible this bottom part of the radiator is brass, bronze, or copper? It was covered in green corrosion as well. This looks to be the original radiator. I hope to be able to braze this up as soon as I know what material it is.

Good chance when you take it to your local radiator shop it will need a recore.
As mentioned the material used in our old school rads is brass and lead.
If looking original is important,then pay the bux to get it redone right.

If you are not concerned about originality but really want to drive your car a lot get an aluminum rad.

If you want the efficient cooling of aluminum but want factory loo check out Griffin rads $$
Griffin ExactFit Radiator for 67 Chrysler Newport - Part Number 5-70026

 

[413]

Ever see a penny turn green? Is that from the antifreeze? LOL
Copper and brass turn green when they corrode.

You need a GOOD radiator repair person, or another radiator.

Silver solder is good for crack repairs, much stronger that lead solder.

 

[kenfyoozed]

I didn't think about the other side still being dirty. Would it be worth even to attempt the repair? Or even have a radiator shop attempt it? Or should i just moth ball the part and get a new radiator?

I am proficient in brazing, soldering, tig welding copper and aluminum. But i may be just be beating a dead horse.

 

[CBODY67]

For a recore, if the tanks will support it, be sure to check into a 3-core if it doesn't already have one.

What I used to do was, rather than trust the local shop solder job, to get a new Modine 332 and be done with it. OEM longevity and quality. The "332" is an industry part number that works no matter the brand. Mine was a 26" 3-core from the factory. Check RockAuto for pricing of normal brass radiators, or some of the other alternatives, for research.

CBODY67

 

[jct]

CU332 Radiator | RockAuto

 

[CBODY67]

Be sure to get into the RA catalog to determine if that number is what you need. It fits lots of C-body cars (as my '70 DH43N0D) w/ac. But some had different locations for the hose connections.

Thanks for that link!

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

CU332 Radiator | RockAuto

I installed that radiator a few months ago and love it.

SOLD - 26 Inch Rad. Free. Sort of.

Its radiator time

 

[swisherred]

If you are proficient in tig then you can braze it pretty easily without disturbing the rest with heat. Wire wheel it good and run about 45 amps on 3/32 and you will be fine. Pulse it if you can. Worst case....it still leaks....but you aren't out anything. Keep the heat on the filler metal and you won't burn through.

 

[carrman]

Don't forget Coldcase!!!! MOP757A part number for the 26" rad.

 

[3C's & a D?]

Ever see a penny turn green? Is that from the antifreeze? LOL
Copper and brass turn green when they corrode.

You need a GOOD radiator repair person, or another radiator.

Silver solder is good for crack repairs, much stronger that lead solder.

Verde de gris? Or something, as the french say.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

You're close. Verdigris.

From Wiki: The name verdigris comes from the Middle English vertegrez, from the Old French verte grez, an alteration of vert-de-Grèce ("green of Greece"). The modern French spelling of this word is vert-de-gris ("green of grey"). It was used as a pigment in paintings and other art objects (as green color), mostly imported from Greece (Grèce).

But I say "Rock Auto, Spectra CU332". All new, clean core, $176

 

[ayilar]

@jct -- thank you for suggesting the Spectra CU332. The car I just bought seems to have one, and since the seller insists that I check out the cooling, I want to know of others' experiences.

How long have you had the CU332? Do you run A/C in your cars? I know from @Trace 300 Hurst that his CU332 has worked flawlessly in his '70 Chrysler 300 Hurst even with the A/C turned on, but more data points would be helpful as I understand that at least one member has had issues.

Having looked up RockAuto, the CU332 is the only one generated by the search engine when I enter the part number of the radiators for a 1970 Polara with 383 engine and A/C (MyMopar and the 1970-1071 Parts Manual agree on that list: P/N 2998965 / 2998967 / 2998968 / 2998970).

 

[live4theking]

I'm pretty sure this is the same one I put in my 68 for years ago and I've had no issues. I did have the ac working briefly to without issue.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

I know from @Trace 300 Hurst that his CU332 has worked flawlessly in his '70 Chrysler 300 Hurst even with the A/C turned on, but more data points would be helpful as I understand that at least one member has had issues.

And that's during roaring hot Florida summer days!

 

[ricks_RR]

just sent my radiator out to get re cored last trip of the summer and it let go just as i was parling it in the garage

 

[ricks_RR]

just got a picture of the radiator after the repair shop opened it up and the car was running cool .
it should run alot cooler now

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

It should run alot cooler now

That's for sure. Looks like many of those tubes are totally blocked, and most others are partially blocked.

 

[ricks_RR]

thats the bottom of the core and the top looks great and the car never got hot and i drove her in 95 degree weather this summer but just as i was going to put her to sleep for the winter she let me know she had a problem a little leak on the driveway so i had to find out what was going on $ 430 later but it will be all fixed for next summer . she only has 50.000 miles on her