Ready to buy a pertronix, have a couple questions

Electrical & Ignition

  1. Biggredd2069

    Biggredd2069 Active Member

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    I have a 68 Newport 383 4 barrel. I've been reading that the ignitor 1 series can potentially fry out if you leave the ignition in the on position for too long. I've read that may have been on the older models and not necessarily the newer ones. I did a search and tried reading all the articles but didn't see my specific question answered to satisfaction. I emailed their tech support and have yet to hear back. I really think I only need the basic ignitor 1 but if that issue hasn't been resolved do I need to upgrade to the ignitor 2? I want peace of mind of being to have my radio on with the car off and not fry everything and my car isn't done up enough to necessarily warrant the 2 unless that has the added protection I'm looking for. Can't pull the trigger til I feel comfortable I'm buying the right one.

    Ignitor 1 1385LS

    or Ignitor 2 91385LS
     
  2. Mike66Chryslers

    Mike66Chryslers Well-Known Member

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    Your ignition should not be powered when the key is in the ACCessory position to listen to the radio, which it won't be if the Pertronix-1 is wired as recommended in the instructions.

    Points have the same problem BTW. if you leave your ignition in ON/RUN without the engine running and engine was shut off in a spot where the points are just starting to open, they will burn from arcing.
     
  3. Biggredd2069

    Biggredd2069 Active Member

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    OK, maybe I'm just misunderstanding. I'm not at home to see my FSM. What positions are there with the ignition? With my key one click to the right is acc (and this would not fry anything left on?), and then further to the right starts the car. Is it leaving it that one extra click past acc without trying to start it where the issue is? what position is considered leaving it on that would fry it out?
     
  4. furious70

    furious70 Active Member

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    Yes. There's off, acc, run, start.
     
  5. Mike66Chryslers

    Mike66Chryslers Well-Known Member

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    No, from inserting the key you turn it left to ACCessory position. If you turn it right, that is ON and once more to the right is START.

    But they are not in that order @furious70

    ACC-OFF-RUN-START
    Do not leave the key in ON/RUN without the engine running.
     
  6. Biggredd2069

    Biggredd2069 Active Member

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    OK, got it!!!!!! extremely helpful. I may have been guilty of leaving it in the on/run position for longer than I should have once or twice. BTW will that happen with any pertronix model if left in the on position? or does the 2 provide any protection in the event you do accidentally leave it in on/run?
     
  7. JJ300

    JJ300 Member

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    I bought the Ignitor II, after possibly frying I while working on my hidden headlights.
    I find there is always times when you need the car in run position, but not RUNNING,
    so Ignitor II for me.
     
  8. LocuMob

    LocuMob Fluid Technician with a hat FCBO Gold Member

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    I'm going to jump in with a different sort of question. Do you use vacuum advance with the Pertronix? Mine isn't hooked up, and when I hooked it up, it ran worse than without it hooked up. I've just used an electronic distributor, so the Pertronix is new to me. I haven't had time to look up any info, hope to tonight, but I any of you know, it would help me out.
     
  9. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    As I understand it, the Ignitor II has an over current protection circuit that should prevent frying it if left in "run". I'd still refrain from leaving the key in "run" position anyway... No matter what ignition system.

    IMHO, the Ignitor II is enough better all around to not consider using the Ignitor I.
     
  10. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    It should work with the Pertronix. There's no reason for it not to.

    A couple things... First is if the vacuum advance is bad, you could be creating a vacuum leak. The other is the timing is just set wrong and it's too far advanced when the vacuum advance is connected.
     
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  11. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Far more electronic ignition conversions fail because of poor wiring connections than anything else. Electronics do not like any kind of arcing. Take care to be sure you connections are clean and tight. Do not use wire nuts!

    Dave
     
  12. LocuMob

    LocuMob Fluid Technician with a hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Thanks for clarifying, that's what I thought, but I have no experience with Pertronix, and have passed over most threads involving them. I am chasing through my issues, and timing is not known yet. Fixed one issue, not ignition related, and got a big improvement. I pulled the timing light out yesterday, and will get it sorted out over the weekend.
     
  13. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    Don't they now have a multi-strike unit that's "Ignitor III"?
     
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  14. furious70

    furious70 Active Member

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    Ran worse all around or at certain times? What do you have it hooked up to as the source of vacuum?
     
  15. LocuMob

    LocuMob Fluid Technician with a hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Ran worse when it was hooked to the timed vacuum port.

    See above, now to the open air. After I moved the throttle cable off the kickdown linkage, it moved under power much better. But it's running differently than it did before, so more tuning. Checking timing is next in the list.
     
  16. furious70

    furious70 Active Member

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    I meant like at idle, hesitation when accel, steady state, etc?
     
  17. LocuMob

    LocuMob Fluid Technician with a hat FCBO Gold Member

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    I plugged in the vacuum advance, and it was more sluggish when trying to accelerate. Felt like it was going to fall on it's face. Unplugged it, and it had more pep. I have since cleaned the carb of it's old nasty fuel but have not touched it tuning wise.

    I just thought it was odd that it ran better unhooked then hooked up. And not have any experience with Pertronix (is there some other brand product?) I figured I'd ask.
     
  18. BLUPORT

    BLUPORT Carpe Diem Cras FCBO Gold Member

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    I have the Ignitor I, and vacuum advance. She runs quite nicely. In fact, I haven't started it in a couple days, maybe I'll do a startup video today, for my own entertainment.
     
  19. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    Stumbles when the throttle is opened? Sounds like an accel pump issue? Or, if it's a metering-rod carb, metering rods that aren't moving as engine vacuum varies?
     
  20. tbm3fan

    tbm3fan Senior Member

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    They do but overkill for our cars. I can't ever imagine the Polara running over 4000 rpm unless I start shifting manually and forget to shift out of 1st. I run the II in the five cars off a relay.