Droppedatbirth
New Member
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Really need opinion on engine rebuild quotes
- Thread starter Droppedatbirth
- Start date
Look around for a rebuilt one on Tempest they do show up under 3K
It sounds like they are quoting you a worst case deal. Certainly a re-ring and bearing job wouldn't cost that much.
You'd be better off buying new 440source heads if they were really going to charge you $2500 to refurb oem heads. It's easy to spend a grand fixing heads tho.
You'd be better off buying new 440source heads if they were really going to charge you $2500 to refurb oem heads. It's easy to spend a grand fixing heads tho.
Newport 66
Old Man with a Hat
Quote "A" is high. Quote"B" is closer but seems still a bit high for a 383 build. I just has a 413 done, bored with a torque plate, align bored, rotating assembly balanced, short block assembled and head work done by another vendor who specializes in MoPar heads. Total investment was just over $4,000.
Prices will vary depending on area and expertise of the machine shop. My guy is a small 2 man operation that I know and trust. Good luck!
Prices will vary depending on area and expertise of the machine shop. My guy is a small 2 man operation that I know and trust. Good luck!
i don't see where magnaflux would be needed and i'm not sure what he means by metal embedded in the cylinder walls. the cam and lifters going bad would amount to what is basically metal dust. a good cleaning, hone with new rings and bearings and you should be good to go. the heads is one of those, as long as you are in there, things. easier to do now than later. maybe ask for a best case scenario price?
Wollfen
Old Man with a Hat
They are out there,
FOR SALE - Fresh 383
FOR SALE - Fresh 383
swisherred
Senior Member
shops around me are about $600 for the pair of heads...new guides and seats with decking....but im also sure that you will get what you pay for...for that kind of money i would think it would basically be a brand new engine...including new pistons...
saylor
Senior Member
I gave $4200 for a 440 rebuild from a dude in denton tx named wayne calvert - a really old school (before we were born) racer
I forget the spec but 30 over, flattops, xe268 cam springs lifters, I don't rememember what else.
try not to die -
- saylor
I forget the spec but 30 over, flattops, xe268 cam springs lifters, I don't rememember what else.
try not to die -
- saylor
Need more information. First off, how many miles are on this engine? Second, if it is still in the car have you pulled the pan and checked the bearings for copper showing? Is the quote to R & R the engine as well as rebuild it? A cam that has gone flat on only one lobe was probably the result of a bad lifter or a rusted valve stem or the bent push rod on that cylinder that trashed the cam. This usually does not result in metal being released in sufficient quantity to fully ruin an engine. Most of the metal coming off the camshaft will wind up in the oil filter eventually, it typically does not get imbedded in the cylinders, that in my opinion is BS, a large piece might score the cylinder wall, but it should not get stuck there. Wear sufficient to cup a lifter usually will happen over ten thousand or more miles on a daily driver, so much of the wear metal is probably long gone. In any case re-boring the engine, a part of any quality rebuild, would remove any wear metal found there. If this was a relatively good engine that was not showing any significant distress before you discovered the bent push rod, I think you can probably replace the camshaft, lifters and do a valve job if necessary for considerably less money. Somewhere in the $600 range for the valve work for a standard valve job with new guides, seats and decking as required. If the valve stems are worn out and the heads need new springs, it will go up another $350. This assumes that you are going to install the heads. A replacement cam, lifter and timing set will run about another $300.
Dave
Dave
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With that type of failure, "metal" might not be everywhere, but would most probably be in the oil pump, oil pickup, and oil FILTER. Unless something got into an intake port OR the piston and valve met each other (not sure that would be possible if the valve spring on that cylinder was intact and not broken). Which should be verified when the head comes off. So, some variables there.
If that's all that's wrong, then a flush out of the oil pan, pickup, and inspection of the oil pump's guts should confirm just what the condition of other areas might be. AND that might be all that needs to be done. Past that, it gets into the "while we're in there" . . . . and related $$$$$ situation. Plus, the needed cam/lifters/timing chain items.
For this level of repair, it might be good to have somebody that has been inside of and had successfully done a Chrysler B/RB engine, but NOT always necessary. Considering some of the basic design similarities with the Chrysler B/RB and the small block Chevy engines. BTAIM
UNLESS you want a full-blown engine rebuild, remember that "least is usually the best", generally. BUT consider what the investigation reveals BEFORE un-needed things might be done.
Some might consider anything less than a full rebuild "a patch job", but it's really not. Replacing bolt-on/bolt-in items is relying upon basic mechanical skills. Machine work is in another category.
If the factory "line hone" was good, the main bearing wear patterns will show that. The cylinder bore size will always have some wear on it, as will the pistons. so accurately measuring those diameters and then doing the match for "clearance" and how it relates to the factory specs can be important. From what I saw with my machine shop operative, it will take a .030" overbore to get to "clean metal" and then honing for the correct cross-hatch pattern on the cylinder walls.
If the crank has some wear patterns, a simple polish might clean it up nicely, without having to turn it down. Always Plastigage-ing the bearings for clearance, too.
BUT you can talk to people on the phone and only get frustrated, especially if you aren't really sure what is needed. Find a local, competent mechanic to pull the head off first, then go from there. Do price a cam/lifter/timing chain replacement. Plus the oil pan/oil pump removal. That might give you a more realistic idea of the costs. Figure in some tow bills, too.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
If that's all that's wrong, then a flush out of the oil pan, pickup, and inspection of the oil pump's guts should confirm just what the condition of other areas might be. AND that might be all that needs to be done. Past that, it gets into the "while we're in there" . . . . and related $$$$$ situation. Plus, the needed cam/lifters/timing chain items.
For this level of repair, it might be good to have somebody that has been inside of and had successfully done a Chrysler B/RB engine, but NOT always necessary. Considering some of the basic design similarities with the Chrysler B/RB and the small block Chevy engines. BTAIM
UNLESS you want a full-blown engine rebuild, remember that "least is usually the best", generally. BUT consider what the investigation reveals BEFORE un-needed things might be done.
Some might consider anything less than a full rebuild "a patch job", but it's really not. Replacing bolt-on/bolt-in items is relying upon basic mechanical skills. Machine work is in another category.
If the factory "line hone" was good, the main bearing wear patterns will show that. The cylinder bore size will always have some wear on it, as will the pistons. so accurately measuring those diameters and then doing the match for "clearance" and how it relates to the factory specs can be important. From what I saw with my machine shop operative, it will take a .030" overbore to get to "clean metal" and then honing for the correct cross-hatch pattern on the cylinder walls.
If the crank has some wear patterns, a simple polish might clean it up nicely, without having to turn it down. Always Plastigage-ing the bearings for clearance, too.
BUT you can talk to people on the phone and only get frustrated, especially if you aren't really sure what is needed. Find a local, competent mechanic to pull the head off first, then go from there. Do price a cam/lifter/timing chain replacement. Plus the oil pan/oil pump removal. That might give you a more realistic idea of the costs. Figure in some tow bills, too.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Sorry to hear about your bad luck
Since money is tight after making the purchase, you may not want to do the heads:
Cheap way out
If cam lobe matching broken push rod has any lift, take an undamaged push rod and lifter from one of the other lobes and install under that rocker arm for that valve at that damaged cam lobe. Turn the engine by hand and make sure a sticking valve isn't the reason for the broken push rod. If cam lobe is at base line, block of wood and BFH on top of valve stem might be another low cost way to assure valve is not stuck.
If that valve is OK, you might get away with replacement cam, lifters, and push rods from Jegs or PAW. Change the oil and filter. Start the engine and break-in the cam for over 20 minutes at rpm varying from 1500-2500. Then see if engine is in decent working condition.
I did that in a 1976 D100 440. Worked fine for many miles until I traded it for an 84 W150. Ben
Since money is tight after making the purchase, you may not want to do the heads:
Cheap way out
If cam lobe matching broken push rod has any lift, take an undamaged push rod and lifter from one of the other lobes and install under that rocker arm for that valve at that damaged cam lobe. Turn the engine by hand and make sure a sticking valve isn't the reason for the broken push rod. If cam lobe is at base line, block of wood and BFH on top of valve stem might be another low cost way to assure valve is not stuck.
If that valve is OK, you might get away with replacement cam, lifters, and push rods from Jegs or PAW. Change the oil and filter. Start the engine and break-in the cam for over 20 minutes at rpm varying from 1500-2500. Then see if engine is in decent working condition.
I did that in a 1976 D100 440. Worked fine for many miles until I traded it for an 84 W150. Ben
stubs300
Senior Member
Engine rebuild quotes?
What do you want done to it?
How bad's the motor now?
Your questions like asking, How much for a bottle of water?
Good Luck
What do you want done to it?
How bad's the motor now?
Your questions like asking, How much for a bottle of water?
Good Luck
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Is it me or is there nothing in the first post...
LOL!Is it me or is there nothing in the first post...
Period.
It was there yesterday.
He had received some awfully high quotes to rebuild a 383.
stubs300
Senior Member
Maybe he really was "Droppedatbirth" as the name implies? Probably never to be heard from again. Good Luck dude!
stubs300
Senior Member
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