Rear bearing going bad?

[Gerald Morris]

Did my rear end axle bearings January 2017. Hired a machine shop not too far from me to press the new stuff on after popping the old ones out. I was leaking gear oil into the brake drums, SURE sign seals and bearings were needing replacement. Have driven Mathilda nearly 20k miles since that job without the slightest trouble from the rear. Used Timken bearings from a kit I paid about $100 for.

 

[Zymurgy]

After watching the video I decided to take a shot at removing the bearings. It went pretty well, got my second one off in about half the time. I was being extremely cautious on the first one.

The right side was really bad completely dried out, the left wasn't as bad, but there was play in the bearing.

Here is my pile of bearings.

 

[mr. fix it]

After watching the video I decided to take a shot at removing the bearings. It went pretty well, got my second one off in about half the time. I was being extremely cautious on the first one.

The right side was really bad completely dried out, the left wasn't as bad, but there was play in the bearing.

Here is my pile of bearings.

View attachment 209649

wow...

 

[mr. fix it]

I think you know better Mike but make sure you install the seal in the right way and location and the bearing too!
I've seen a few mechanics cursing themselves over doing just that.

 

[Zymurgy]

I think you know better Mike but make sure you install the seal in the right way and location and the bearing too!
I've seen a few mechanics cursing themselves over doing just that.

It is funny you said this, I was just going through it in my head. I was thinking boy I don't want to forget or get something turned around, or I am screwed.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Your bearing pile looks worse than mine were, but just a bit. I cut the old ones off w a grinder and GASP! nicked the journal when I slipped. THANK GOD, it was far enough back that I was able to cover the scratch entirely with a second seal, right behind the first. I've not lost a drop of oil since then, over 19 months ago, so I count my blessings.

I don't have anything suitable for pressing on the bearings so for once I hired a machine shop nearby to do that for me for about $30 for both bearings. I put the seals on myself once home.

With due CAUTION, this is a pretty straightforward job. I used an old derelict brake drum as a slide hammer for the more stubborn passenger side and documented it all somewhere on this forum. I pray for the best for you.

 

[Zymurgy]

Can't beat that for $30. Our local NAPA will do it but I never got a quote, maybe I should, but I didn't buy my parts from them.

 

[Zymurgy]

Ok I don't want to screw this up. I have access to a 20 ton so I pressed on the bearings no problem. I installed the axel shafts and followed the direction for end play for the service manual.

The right side has the adjuster got it perfect, went to the left and it is very sloppy moves .10 of an inch as opposed to the .013-.023 they recommend on the right side. Have I simply not press the bearing on too far? I have this same movement between the flange and the bearing when I have it off the car.

I started to get more resistance on the press and didn't want to press it on too far. Should I just put it back on the press until the bearing is just within that tolerance to the flange?

 

[furious70]

which center section do you have? 742 have the pins in the middle that the axles butt up against. If 1 of the pins happen to drop out you can't get the endplay correct and the piggie has to come out
It's been more than a few years since I did one, I would have marked the axle where the cup was sitting to know I had drove the new stuff deep enough.

 

[Zymurgy]

I am not certain, will have to look. I drove the bearings basically where it was. I presumed there was supposed to be some movement, now I wondered if the original bearing moved out from the factory location.

 

[mr. fix it]

I recall doing my differential housing reseal and recall the one being drawn in with no side play. the other side I use the screw carrier to draw it into specification.

Have you installed and torqued the non-adjustable side into place and found the .100" side play?

 

[furious70]

Good point, gotta have both axles in to set it

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Loosen pass side 5 nuts. Bump dri vers side with a heavy hammer then reinstall pass side and adjust.

 

[Zymurgy]

Thanks for the input guys. I have had both shafts installed, and tried to get things into spec with the bolts loose. I think I need to try Dave's advice. I tapped the left side with a rubber mallet that did nothing. I think I need a bigger hammer.

 

[Zymurgy]

Well I got everything back together today. I still have more play than I want on the left side. It has been like that since I started driving it 6 years ago. I really was hoping the the new bearings would get rid of it.

The right side had the bad bearing, once I got into it the left side I found it was fine, but replaced it just the same. I took it for a short drive. The hum from the rear is gone. I have had that for a couple of years. I feel like the vibration will be gone too, but that will take an extended drive, for another day. Thanks everyone for the advice.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Well I got everything back together today. I still have more play than I want on the left side. It has been like that since I started driving it 6 years ago. I really was hoping the the new bearings would get rid of it.

The right side had the bad bearing, once I got into it the left side I found it was fine, but replaced it just the same. I took it for a short drive. The hum from the rear is gone. I have had that for a couple of years. I feel like the vibration will be gone too, but that will take an extended drive, for another day. Thanks everyone for the advice.

You've done well enough with what you have. Be glad, drive your ride and enjoy knowing you own and operate one of the Best Automobiles Ever Made.

 

[Wollfen]

Just a quick question, with everything tightened into place bolt wise, you are then using the screw ring on the passenger side to take up all the sideways play up, right?

 

[Gerald Morris]

Just a quick question, with everything tightened into place bolt wise, you are then using the screw ring on the passenger side to take up all the sideways play up, right?

I used just that to take up play to within exactly the spec in the FSM for mine. Some small amount of play was allowed in the spec and that is what I allowed it. I'll dip stick my gear oil down in the pig some time this month, just to make sure nothing is amiss, but I suspect it will be fine.

 

[Zymurgy]

Just a quick question, with everything tightened into place bolt wise, you are then using the screw ring on the passenger side to take up all the sideways play up, right?

Yes, I was under the impression that when I got the passenger side I to spec with the screw ring it would move the drivers side tighter. No matter how many times I tried I never got the the driver's side to move tighter.

 

[Wollfen]

Yes, I was under the impression that when I got the passenger side I to spec with the screw ring it would move the drivers side tighter. No matter how many times I tried I never got the the driver's side to move tighter.

Yes, to get things to spec, you have to tighten the passenger side until there is no side play, tap the end of the axle, then tighten the ring again and repeat until you feel no end play on the driver side as well. Once it is all tight, then you back off the ring on the passenger side to spec.