I have a 71 New Yorker with a 440 that I put a new rear main in 2 times and it still leaks. I want to go back to a rope but I don't have the original cap that was on the motor for the rope seal. I have a Mancini Racing billet cap and a Indy Billet cap for the 2 piece seal. My question is has anyone ever used one of those caps for a rope seal or will it even work since they are for a 2 piece type seal?
Rear Main Seal Cap
- Thread starter Mopar1
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1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
I'm sorry to hear the Indy seal didn't work. I thought their parts were top quality. If you want to go back to a stock cap, PM me. I believe I have several spares. Ben
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I used the Mancini piece and to say it leaked was an understatement...
Greg B.
Senior Member
I wonder if this might be worth a try?
http://barsproducts.com/catalog/view/238-concentrated-rear-main-seal-repair-1040
http://barsproducts.com/catalog/view/238-concentrated-rear-main-seal-repair-1040
Not be a smart-aleck: Are you getting FOUR pieces with your 2 piece rear main seal? In addition to the two semi-circular pieces that ride on the crank, there are two small flat seals that fit between the upper and lower halves of the retainer.
At some point in the mid 1970s, the oil companies changed the formulation of their engine oils (we could never get them to admit they'd done anything, of course), with the bottom line being that the oil would absolutely DISSOLVE a rope seal in a matter of a few hundred miles at most. We'd get engines back from the field where the complaint was a major oil leak at the back, flip the engine over, pop off the pan, pull the rear cap and at best there would be small shards of rope left. Most times there was absolutely nothing. So unless any supplier of a rope seal that you find can guarantee you that the seal is compatible with modern oils, I think you'd be throwing more good money after bad.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
I suppose you could try it. Since it's an oil additive, it might glop up/clog up something else, like a narrow oil passage. Not sure, but this makes me say: be cautious.
NNNNNNNNNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If you absolutely MUST put something in the oil, go to your friendly neighbourhood GM dealer and ask for a bottle of Engine Oil Supplement. This stuff has all the nutritional ingredients (geesus, I sound like a commercial!) you car's engine needs to cope with the near total lack of additives a flat tappet engine needs. Check the API classification sticker on the jug of oil you're using. If it's higher than SG (like SM or SN) you need this stuff. One 8 ounce bottle will handle about 4 oil changes. Last bottle I bought was 6 bucks, so it's cheap insurance.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
I don't understand the problems with these seals, I'm most likely jinksing myself but have never had one leak. Clean the whole area with brake clean must be clean, clean, clean. Put a very thin layer of Mopar black rtv, permetex ultra black rtv, or victor rtv(the silver stuff) in the groove. Put the bottom half in block lip facing forward, leave one side sticking up approx 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch, put a light film of oil on lip don't get it all over everything you cleaned. Put crank in and do the deal on it torque, thrust, ect. Same deal on cap clean, clean, clean thin layer of rtv in groove, put seal in cap with the opposite side sticking out 1/8 to 3/16 same as what you left out on other half, small dabs of rtv on butt ends and cap mating surfaces. Now take remainder of the rtv tube with the plastic nozzle cut at small size and run a bead up the grooves on each side, then bolt cap on, grab the rtv and force a bead into and on the bevel on cap to block edge wipe it smooth and if there is no oil should lay down like the caulking around your bath tub. Let this dry the whole 24 hrs before running engine keeping oil away from it. Throw the side seals in trash.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
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