Refurbish time

[70NPORT]

Alright so long story short. Here's are cylinder comp numbers for my 70' 383:
#1 125lbs
#3 90lbs
#5 90lbs
#7 120lbs

#2 120lbs
#4 ZERO
#6 90lbs
#8 120lbs

I did a comp test (dry) because over time (4-5 months) the motor started to run worse and worse, and began to have a misfire (which at first I thought was a loose sp wire..#7 was is notorious for popping off). Should I do a wet test, with oil, to tell me "exactly" what's happening or does it really matter at this point (low comp w/ one dead cylinder)? IF there are burnt or stuck valves its time to refurbish or secure new 906 heads. I think the most difficult part in swapping heads (at least for me in my garage) would be to avoid snapping exhaust mounting studs. I know they are probably brittle after all this time. Swapping the heads in my garage doesn't seem like too much rocket science, more elbow grease. If I go this route I'm looking at these people for securing new heads http://www.aeroheadracing.com/chrysler-heads/.This car is either going to get new or refurbished heads or a transplant. Thats the other route. Avoid thinking about all that, find another 383/400 or 440 car and swap motors after ascertaining the health of the donor motor. My father n law did this and had no regrets about it. 71' Sport Fury. 383 threw a rod so they found a wrecked NY'r and swapped in the 440.
I want to here what other's might do. If you've swapped heads before I definitely want to hear about that.

 

[67Monaco]

Sorry I didn't follow up with you on the dock but I don't have any information about aerohead. However if you're looking for easiest, head swap is the fastest easiest to do. But I would suggest pulling the heads and indeed verifying the valves are burned before doing anything, i.e. ordering new heads, buying new engine, etc etc. it's the only way to be 100% sure of what you're dealing with.

 

[70NPORT]

Sorry I didn't follow up with you on the dock but I don't have any information about aerohead. However if you're looking for easiest, head swap is the fastest easiest to do. But I would suggest pulling the heads and indeed verifying the valves are burned before doing anything, i.e. ordering new heads, buying new engine, etc etc. it's the only way to be 100% sure of what you're dealing with.

No problem. I've been doing a little homework on this before I'm make the decision to begin and came across this vid on youtube. Are these required for Chrysler blocks also (the dowel pins)?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRxW9Td37vI

 

[67Monaco]

Er'ybody has 'em and you should have them already.

 

[monaco75]

The dowel pins are already in the block. Heres a shot from my 440. You can see the small pin to the left of the cylinder. I cheaped out, and reused my head bolts. Granted I dont think mine are 40 years old.. Believe they were replaced in 05, with only 5,000 miles on em. I'd deff replace em if they are original.

 

[70NPORT]

View attachment 36708The dowel pins are already in the block. Heres a shot from my 440. You can see the small pin to the left of the cylinder. I cheaped out, and reused my head bolts. Granted I dont think mine are 40 years old.. Believe they were replaced in 05, with only 5,000 miles on em. I'd deff replace em if they are original.

I see em', much obliged. Just about certain I'll be safe than sorry and grab new bolts.

 

[67Monaco]

I see em', much obliged. Just about certain I'll be safe than sorry and grab new bolts.

If it were me, and I had the room to install them and the heads, I'd go studs rather than bolts. there's less twisting involved over the entire length of the stud vs. the bolts. Actually there isn't any so the theory is more accurate torque.

 

[70NPORT]

I dunno, studs might be kind of overkill from what I can see. Race engine, yes that would make perfect sense. No race engine here, a bit hotter than stock but nothing crazy. Don't have much room to move around and the block itself is staying bolted in.

 

[commando1]

Gary, I'm unclear what you're actually asking.
Sounds like you want a rebuilt 440 in there so you're done with it once and for all and it will be good for at least another ten years. Yes???
It can be done for $3,000.00.and you'll easily have enough change fro that to buy a Suicide knob that you always wanted afterwards.

Posted via Topify on Android

 

[commando1]

If you're going for a rebuild the most bang for the buck is stock stock stock with a matched Edelbrock cam , intake, and carb. Stock heads are fine. Trust me.

Posted via Topify on Android

 

[70NPORT]

Gary, I'm unclear what you're actually asking.
Sounds like you want a rebuilt 440 in there so you're done with it once and for all and it will be good for at least another ten years. Yes???
It can be done for $3,000.00.and you'll easily have enough change fro that to buy a Suicide knob that you always wanted afterwards.

Posted via Topify on Android

If you're going for a rebuild the most bang for the buck is stock stock stock with a matched Edelbrock cam , intake, and carb. Stock heads are fine. Trust me.

Posted via Topify on Android

Yea Stan the 440 would be nice some day, but for now I got what I got.....hell, I feel I'm lucky to have what I have considering its almost exactly what I want. I can get stock heads for just under a grand online. I'll get the old heads off first so I can get a better picture of what is to be dealt with but I think the 383 may still have more life in it. Already have the edelbrock goodies.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I would definately rebuild what you have, mostly because of exactly that, you know what you have, some low cylinders and a dead one, you could have a hole in the piston but I doubt that, you wouldn't need a compression test to tell you something is wrong. If the car didn't use much oil I would probably just do a top end, my suggestion for a cam if you want to go that far would be a Mopar Performance 383/440 magnum/hp cam, eddy intake you can't go wrong with and a eddy carb have won me over now that gas is bumping 4.00/gallon, Holleys are great but gas mileage is not their strong suit, my 2 cents anyway.

 

[70NPORT]

I would definately rebuild what you have, mostly because of exactly that, you know what you have, some low cylinders and a dead one, you could have a hole in the piston but I doubt that, you wouldn't need a compression test to tell you something is wrong. If the car didn't use much oil I would probably just do a top end, my suggestion for a cam if you want to go that far would be a Mopar Performance 383/440 magnum/hp cam, eddy intake you can't go wrong with and a eddy carb have won me over now that gas is bumping 4.00/gallon, Holleys are great but gas mileage is not their strong suit, my 2 cents anyway.

yea, 70BB, pretty sure there are no holes in any pistons,lol. I already have all the Brock goodies now as the engine stands right now. Also the 383/440 magmagnum grind cam. I think though I'm more comfortable with AVS carb rather than the Holley only because I had a Holley self.destruct on me once.

 

[commando1]

That compression test shows me it needs a basic rebuild. New heads on that block will not solve any problems. Only creates more work when you figure it DOES need a rebuild and those almost new heads have to come off again.

 

[68plymouth383]

The compression problem stems from the rings not sealing all the way. I agree with commando that a head swap/head rebuild wouldn't solve the problem.

 

[commando1]

My NYB burned oil like crazy and idling brought tears to your eyes.
I crossed all my fingers & toes, said 3 prayers, two Hail Marys, and a Dear Sweet Jesus and did a compression check.
140 +- 5 on all 8.
Whew !!!!!!!!!

Of course I screwed up the head job...

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Well that would be the reason for the wet test, was it smoking at all if you can pull the engine sure rering rebearing as long as everything measures okay I agree with that.

 

[70NPORT]

The compression problem stems from the rings not sealing all the way. I agree with commando that a head swap/head rebuild wouldn't solve the problem.

That scenario COULD be indicative of bad rings, yes. But there's no burnt oil / smoke coming out of the engine exhaust at idle or at speed. Which kinda makes me believe they are still sealing adequately.

 

[70NPORT]

Well that would be the reason for the wet test, was it smoking at all if you can pull the engine sure rering rebearing as long as everything measures okay I agree with that.

No smoking at all. I would have done a wet test if the dry numbers were not all over the place....and with one cylinder with NO compression at all. No point in doing that now. I'm not going try and fix what isn't broke by digging into the bottom end only to find I didn't have to....doh! Nope, learned that lesson the hard way with that kind of rational. At this point I think I'll just remove the heads, have a look..I think I know what I'm going to find...but will know for sure when heads are on my bench.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

You can always pull the short block after the heads are off. My guess is a torched exhaust on the dead hole and a lot of pitted seats on the low cylinders they are probably sunk also. How many miles on that car?