Remove or Not Remove

Omni

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Good Afternoon All

Its raining and my leaf burning is on hold, so it is back to the man-cave to tinker on the Newport.
Both front doors will not stay open on the '65. Replaced the springs (which were MIA), but they still won't stay open 5 out of 6 times. Done some research and it appears the the pin/roller if the likely suspect. I can't see or feel if the roller is present or not.
My question is: Do I remove the front fenders (or doors) to replace them? It looks like it would be next to impossible to install a new roller and pin without removing one or the other.
All replies are welcomed.
Thanks for your time
Omni
 

Knebel

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Watch your fingers, I had a door close on me when i had my finger in it. Left a nice triangular scar lol
 

1970FuryConv

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Replacing Door Hinges: I am not experienced with working on a 1965. However, in 1969 and later, the spring is on the lower hinge. You can access the hinge bolts for the doors, by opening the doors. As long as you don’t remove the upper hinge, and properly support the door panel with like a wooden block on top of a hydraulic Jack, you shouldn’t have to remove the door. Further I can see no reason to remove the fender to service the door hinges. Hope this helps!
PXL_20210217_001334058 both.jpg

PXL_20210218_170807322 hinges dr mtd.jpg
 
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CBODY67

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Seems like that as long as the spring for the hold-open part is there, the door should stay at 1/2 open (or where ever the detents might place it) except if the car is on a steep hill, sideways, where gravity would take over?

See if you can find an illustration in either the appropriate model year FSM or Chrysler parts book to see how it is supposed to be. Plus what might not be there on your car.

Removing the door is probably a 2 or 3 person activity. Plus the jack and block of wood.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 

Omni

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Good Morning
Further investigation shows that the roll-pin is broken and the roller is long gone on the passenger side. Don't know about the driver side yet.
Fabing up new rollers with a 5/8 bolt (as per an older thread).
I'm unclear about how removing the door panel will gain access to the hinge bolts as the bolt heads are on the back side of the hinge which makes them in-accessible with the door open. I do know that on A/B bodies you could remove the rear splash shield for access. Not so on the Newport.
I do know that there is not much clearance to remove the upper bolt on the top hinge with the fender in place.
Omni
 

traintech55

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Went through the same problem with my 300. Look up these threads of the repair I posted,
1966 Chrysler 300 Drivers Door Hinge Repair Part 1
1966 Chrysler 330 Drivers Door Hinge Repair Part 2
Good luck.
 

Omni

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Traintech 55
Your thread is what gave me inspiration to fab my own rollers!
Thanks
Omni
 

1970FuryConv

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Good Morning
Further investigation shows that the roll-pin is broken and the roller is long gone on the passenger side. Don't know about the driver side yet.
Fabing up new rollers with a 5/8 bolt (as per an older thread).
I'm unclear about how removing the door panel will gain access to the hinge bolts as the bolt heads are on the back side of the hinge which makes them in-accessible with the door open. I do know that on A/B bodies you could remove the rear splash shield for access. Not so on the Newport.
I do know that there is not much clearance to remove the upper bolt on the top hinge with the fender in place.
Omni
My mistake. I had the door panel off because I was swapping glass and electric motor into the new door.
 
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Omni

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Well it's Friday evening. The leaves are just about done for the year. The door hinge renewing is also just about done.
For the passenger side I removed the door. Not a difficult task, but you need to exercise patience (sometimes not my strong suit). I had some help in removing but not for the re-installation. A floor jack is a great tool for this. After some tweaking the door now stopping at the detentes like it did when it was new. All the gaps are good.
For the driver side, I experimented with some different tools so I would not have to remove the door as I am doing this solo. A 1/4" drive worked the best to removing some of the bolts from the lower hinge (door side). A 3/8" drive worked for the rest. I was hoping to leave the upper hinge in place. With the bolts removed, the lower hinge was loose however, it lacked the clearance to be removed. I ended up loosening the upper hinge bolts (door side). This allowed me to pull the door away from the hinge (supported by the floor jack) enough to remove the lower hinge.
Examination of the lower hinge showed the the roller was intact but the pin was broken at one end. This allowed the roller to be bent out of the way, rendering it useless.
I installed the new roller and pin and am now ready to re-install and align the door. That should take place tomorrow and, with Gods help, all will be good.
Omni
 

Omni

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Good Morning All
It's 7 A.M. and raining. Up at 5:30, had coffee, headed out to the man cave.
Bottom line: All is good. Both doors now work as they are suppose to.
For those with the same issue, I didn't see any appreciable difference whether you remove the doors or not. Both methods present their own unique challenges. Having an assistant would help if you choose to remove the door.
Enjoy your weekend.
Omni
 

traintech55

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Good Morning All
It's 7 A.M. and raining. Up at 5:30, had coffee, headed out to the man cave.
Bottom line: All is good. Both doors now work as they are suppose to.
For those with the same issue, I didn't see any appreciable difference whether you remove the doors or not. Both methods present their own unique challenges. Having an assistant would help if you choose to remove the door.
Enjoy your weekend.
Omni
Glad all went well for you. Did you grease the new rollers good, this is why the old pins broke in the first place.
 

Omni

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Good Morning
Not only greased but cross drilled the roller to give them a shot of oil.
Omni
 

BLIMP

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Sorry I'm late to the thread, congrats on your successful repair. Just wanted to share this tip for installing doors that I found here on the forum...I believe this is @bigmoparjeff 's idea and he shared the pic? The ability to tilt the door with the load leveler is great!
IMG_0494.JPG.jpg
 

413

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very cool a 1970 GTX, now that’s a classy ride!
 
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