removing drum brakes

[newport64]

what are some recommendations on removing the drums on my 64 newport? I sprayed WD40 and hit it with a hammer like crazy and it has not budged. this is on the passenger side front where I was lucky enough to remove the tire. on the driver side, I broke two wheel bolts since I couldnt even loosen the wheel nuts.

any advice?

also what is the center metal cap on the rim? does this screw off?

 

[newport64]

also, what is the purpose of the spring around the whole drum?

 

[detmatt]

Left hand threads on the driver's side, righty-loosey!
You have to stick a lever, like a standard screwdriver through the elongated hole in the lower region of the backing plate and back off the self adjuster in order to remove the drums.

 

[detmatt]

The center metal cap you're referring to is on the hub and it protects the front wheel bearing from getting dust and dirt in the grease that keeps it lubed. It pries off quite easily. It would probably be a good idea to check and repackage those bearings but NOT WIThOUT A FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL!! Which you should also have for the brakes you are trying to work on too.

 

[newport64]

The center metal cap you're referring to is on the hub and it protects the front wheel bearing from getting dust and dirt in the grease that keeps it lubed. It pries off quite easily. It would probably be a good idea to check and repackage those bearings but NOT WIThOUT A FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL!! Which you should also have for the brakes you are trying to work on too.

Doh! righty loosey, wow...

anyway I do have the service manual but I didnt see anything about that.

 

[newport64]

Left hand threads on the driver's side, righty-loosey!
You have to stick a lever, like a standard screwdriver through the elongated hole in the lower region of the backing plate and back off the self adjuster in order to remove the drums.

I tried turning the self adjuster but it is rusted stuck. for the record, the manual was a bit confusing, but ill try it on the driver side now that I know about removing the tire. to loosen the self adjuster I have to turn towards or away from the car?

 

[Vertigo]

The purpose of the spring around the drum is to dampen vibration in the drum when the brakes are applied.
Prevents ringing noise in drum.

 

[70NPORT]

The curse of mopar drum brakes. The front aren't too bad getting off, but there rear are another story.

 

[newport64]

wish me luck, I will post updates as I replace parts. FYI the car had no brakes when I got it. Opened up the Master cylinder and it was dry and rusty. thinking of pulling off drums, blowing air down the lines and then refilling and seeing what happens.

 

[Big_John]

Are you trying to remove just the drum without removing the wheel bearing nut?? It sounds like you have just pulled the wheel off and expecting the drum to come off without doing anything else.

Take the center cap off, under there is a nut held on with a cotter pin. Remove the nut, washer and outer bearing. The drum should pull off then.

 

[Wollfen]

Ditto to BigJohn, the front drums you need to take the wheel bearing out first before the drums will slide off wheel hub and all, with regards the rear axle drums on a 64, the rear drums are on a keywayed axle meaning you need a special tool, a 120 ton puller that uses the wheel studs to pull against, there is a center nut you need to take off and the puller tightens up against the axle shaft itself, then give the puller a mighty whack on the end of it to pop the drum off hub and all.

 

[newport64]

Are you trying to remove just the drum without removing the wheel bearing nut?? It sounds like you have just pulled the wheel off and expecting the drum to come off without doing anything else.

Take the center cap off, under there is a nut held on with a cotter pin. Remove the nut, washer and outer bearing. The drum should pull off then.

is this for front and back? thanks John, ill try that.

 

[Wollfen]

check my posting for drum removal for the rear a few lines up.

 

[Big_John]

is this for front and back? thanks John, ill try that.

Front

Rear needs a puller as Wollfen has said.

 

[66SportFury]

is this for front and back? thanks John, ill try that.

This is for the front. Take the center cap off, you'll see a cotter pin,..remove it, remove the nut and then the drum will come off. You might have to fight a little bit to remove the drum, but it will come off. After you get it off replace everything. My suggestion is to convert to disc brakes on the front. No hassle and much better to work on and stopping power is increased. IMO, 4 wheel drum brakes suck.

 

[newport64]

This is for the front. Take the center cap off, you'll see a cotter pin,..remove it, remove the nut and then the drum will come off. You might have to fight a little bit to remove the drum, but it will come off. After you get it off replace everything. My suggestion is to convert to disc brakes on the front. No hassle and much better to work on and stopping power is increased. IMO, 4 wheel drum brakes suck.

I disagree, I think if I replace everything and get the brakes bled, I should have the necessary amount of stopping power. I dont plan on perfomance driving, mostly just cruising around with my wife on nice days.

 

[thrashingcows]

If the master cylinder was dry, then there is a good chance you have a leak somewhere...probably the wheel cylinders, or maybe a steel brake line. I would replace the master cylinder, and the wheel cylinders at the least. Check the drum braking surface, and brake shoes and make a call from there. But pulling the entire brake set up, and giving it a good cleaning is a must as well. But only do one side at a time...that way you have the other side for reference when putting things back together.


As for the rear drums. You need a special puller to get those hubs off. You need to remove the cotter pin and nut, then install the puller using 3 or the 5 lug nuts. Then start cranking on the puller. This can sometimes be a bit of an ordeal, since they usually get a little water and rust together. You can start soaking with PB Blaster, and cycle heating the hub until they pop loose. But make sure you put the nut on just a couple threads...sometimes when these hubs come loose they come off like a shot gun!

Here is the tool you need....

http://www.plymouthbulletin.com/rearbrakes.htm

 

[detmatt]

Good info guys, nice work!

 

[commando1]

http://www.moparfins.com/repairs/Rear_Drum_Removal/Rear_Drum_Removal.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLRD0xv9Nu0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wlALkSsLXGM

 

[newport64]

http://www.moparfins.com/repairs/Rear_Drum_Removal/Rear_Drum_Removal.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLRD0xv9Nu0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wlALkSsLXGM

thanks to everyone who chimed in, I have some progress.

currently stuck on removing the brake hose from the metal brake line. is there a trick to this? also found the rubber hose on the driver side had a pretty big slit.

As far as the master cylinder, is it advisable to remove and clean with soap and water? I want to test it out to see if it still works.