Restoration Exasperation: the '70 SFGT basket case... and an S23

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This is a story –a story with pictures... and it’s 8 years long…and its not over yet.

I always wanted a late 68 - 73 Mopar; a Charger or Challenger maybe. Where I live there were almost no mopars except for Dusters and scamps, and a bunch of Satellites. I did see a Charger once… just one. So the story began with the search for a Charger.

That search quickly ended when even a swiss-cheese- rusted and gutted of all interior parts Charger was commanding an $8000 to $10000 price tag. Seriously???

upload_2017-1-12_22-27-7.png



‘Cuda’s were in the 6 figures (WTF??) and even a lousy Duster was $20000 to $30000!


Super Bee’s, Road Runners, GTX’s were interesting but at that point I was losing interest, so I started looking at Chevy’s.

I was looking hard at Monte Carlo GT’s when the GT search term put me onto a car I’d never heard of: a Plymouth Sport Fury GT.


The one that popped up was a white GT … the car was still in pieces –as I recall it was in Georgia… I think… (I wonder now if that’s the one that ended up in Italy!). The GT was apparently in the middle of a restoration that had been aborted and the hot mess of parts and painted body was being sold. I didn’t want to deal with trying to transport a car that was in pieces from 1200 miles away, so I passed.

I continued Searching the internet for ‘Sport Fury GT’s for sale’ but that only brought up a lot of Fury III's, and a few formal roof Sport Fury's. Then finally near the end of the year, an ad on ebay for a GT.

upload_2017-1-12_22-31-54.png


The business in the ad about rarity and 666 cars produced prompted me to do look around on the internet for information and I found a few websites (very few) to sort out Sport Fury facts from GT facts.

The registry and Billy Fury’s website got me started but there was still some confusion about if Sport Fury was separate from Sport Fury GT and the formal roof-fast back roof thing was confusing as well since Sport Fury’s seemed to have both -a problem caused by others mis-identifying sport fury GT clones and sport fury's as GT's. I know about it all NOW but back then I had no idea. I wondered if there were more GT’s besides those in the registry but at the time, none were coming up in the search.

My brief review got me details about how many were made and how even fewer were still in existence, especially ones that still had an original engine and trans based on descriptions of cars in the registry.

So it was a muscle car, had low production numbers, and hardly any survivors… I was thinking this GT should be a pretty valuable car if its brought back to #2 condition! So maybe a restoration project was looming large in my future. Yeh I was clueless.


The GT on ebay was pretty rough. Ad said no engine or trans either. Well, maybe this guy can put an engine back in it if I sweeten the pot. I hemmed and hawed about it while watching the auction end with no bids up to his reserve. I went back to the internet looking for more GT furies. The GT went up for sale again, and again it didn’t sell.

Since it didn’t seem like I would find a sport fury in decent shape any time soon and every time I wait to buy something I want, there is NEVER another for sale ever again, so I was thinking about Monte Carlo’s again. BUT then this darn picture happened…


badass in color.jpg


And after this one....

upload_2017-1-12_22-44-53.png

I was sold. I had to have one. Damn that picture!! I think member cancritter knows what I mean.

I kept thinking about that GT in Florida… and thinking about it… Every time I looked at that stupid rusty GT all I saw was that damn Mean shiny black monster GT… sitting in my driveway.

So even though the eBay auction had ended about 10 days prior I sent the guy an email
asking about the car. Found out the guy’s name was Karl; I asked him if the car was parted-out yet; if he knew of any other GT’s…maybe even a 440-6??

Nope not parted out yet he says, and he’ll hold off on parting it out if I’m interested in the GT, and apparently the engine and trans were still in the car! Some more emails went back and forth. I asked about the condition of the floors and the trunk: he said it had a few of the usual rust holes but the car was “solid” on the outside. Honestly I never thought to ask him anything about the details of its history.

I got his full name and address, I went to the bank to cut a check and officially began the journey down the rabbit hole. We were into December 2008 at this point.

I worked out shipping details with a carrier, coordinated with Karl for pick up while he got the car ready to be moved. Once we got past the holidays, everything was settled. That was January 2009.

Yeh I know sight unseen is a crapshoot but what was I going to do, spend $1000 in travel expenses to save $1000 on a rusty car? The car had AC, the console, the AM 8 track, power windows... I was willing to take a chance just based on the features alone. With the money having changed hands, transport arranged to New York from its former resting place under a Florida pine, the car finally arrived by car carrier on an icy January afternoon, 3 weeks after I bought it.

Unfortunately I never thought to take any pics of its arrival....
A grizzled OTR trucker unloaded it to the street while casting a wary eye in my direction as he mumbled something about ‘another dumbass New Yorker’.

Yeh yeh, it’s a southern car and the south will rise again as soon as I rebuild it, so just unload it already smarty pants.

A friend helped me push it into his yard from the street –with a lot of help from the 4 cyl. Ford I was driving at the time. With slippery ice and snow all over, we barely got it just past the fence -which I had to put back up once we squeezed the car into the yard- and there it sat for the rest of the year safe and sound.
1 safely tucked away.JPG


I spent time looking over the car on a cold Saturday in January then threw that blue tarp over it for the rest of the season. It was clear I would need a lot of “original” parts so I would have to go LOOKING FOR ANOTHER Fury… and that’s the story of how I ended up with a friggen S23!

But for the moment lets continue with the GT story.

Finally, summer of 2009, I had some time to give it a more thorough look over. The car had absolutely no call-out sheet, no fender tag, just the vestigial remains of the A51 GT trim and engine package to attest to its pedigree. So I went thru the car front to back to “reverse engineer” the fender tag.

SO lets all go on this carcheological expedition together an see what comes up.

12 a t code car.JPG



First stop: whats left of the door jam sticker says she was made in November of 1969. Assuming it’s a USA car then it’s a Y05 “build to USA specs” car.

I can guess the month but without something to tell me the “day” of production I can’t create a build date code. Come to think of it, I can’t make a proper fender tag without the vehicle order number either. ANYONE know how I would find that number?? BTW, I’ve noticed that some sport fury GT stickers have the month spelled out, others like this have just the number values. Anyone know why?

moving on...
GT decal and V4X code black strobe stripe still in place on what appears to be “Citron Gold” V01 code monotone factory paint treatment.
upload_2017-1-12_23-19-5.png

Yeh it looks green but the color doesn't seem to match the greens on the 1970 Plymouth paint code chart I have... if it isn't Citron Gold, what color is it?


Remaining ghost of the hood stripe tape treatment on top, next to the L31 hood mounted turn signals.
upload_2017-1-12_23-20-43.png


E85 code 350 horse power 440-4 underneath the power bulge hood with the 26” radiator in front and a D36 727 torqueflite trans behind it
upload_2017-1-12_23-25-26.png

Mud wasp apartment complex notwithstanding, I ask: is it a D57 code 3.91 ratio in a D91 code sure grip rear?
upload_2017-1-12_23-29-12.png


Really bummed that the N41 dual exhaust and N42 chrome exhaust tips are all gone. This was a well optioned car so I would probably not be wrong assuming it also came with the pretty exhaust tips.
















 
There's more...
upload_2017-1-12_23-38-39.png

B51 code power brakes not looking too shabby and there is still fluid in the lines!

M26 wheel lip moldings around B41 code Front wheel disc with rear wheel 10” drums.. S13 heavy duty suspension with sway bar isn’t fully visible here.
upload_2017-1-12_23-40-14.png

Its barely visible but the M31 belt moulding is peeking out at the lower left corner of the picture

Whats left of the H70-15 Goodyear polyglas tires it came with on a junk yard spare tire rim. Classy.
upload_2017-1-12_23-42-27.png


Code G15 tinted windshield and the strips of vinyl left under the chrome trim are the tell for the V1X black vinyl roof
upload_2017-1-12_23-43-43.png


P31 Power windows and remote operated drivers side mirror
upload_2017-1-12_23-44-45.png



Sorry, bad pics of the C13 front shoulder belts and C23 rear arm rests -with ashtrays
upload_2017-1-12_23-46-35.png

Code P25 power left front seat.
upload_2017-1-12_23-47-47.png



C16 Center console with wood grain panel and C55 bucket seats
upload_2017-1-12_23-48-45.png


R22 code 10 watt AM/8 track –(sans the fader switch), and controls for code H51 factory A/C –with code H11 heat
upload_2017-1-12_23-50-46.png

Nothing but two holes left where R32 dual rear speakers once lived
 
So coming into the home stretch on this expedition:
Code J21 Dash mounted analog clock… ooooh, nice. Next to it is the J25 3-speed wipers.
upload_2017-1-12_23-58-35.png



Black dash, black vents, black steering wheel, black pillar posts, black kick panels, black seats…. That’s spells “TX9” interior color code.

upload_2017-1-12_23-59-36.png
Faded and dirty speedometer with 18k on the odometer. Could it really be just 18K? eh, probably 118K but the brake pedal doesn’t have much ware for 118,756 miles so it must have had the J41 pedal dress up kit
upload_2017-1-13_0-0-53.png
...until somebody yanked it off for some crummy B-Body resto... boooo!


So basically the “fender plate” that develops from these details might look like this:

R22 V4X YO5 26 END
M26 M31 N41 N42 P25 P31
C55 G15 H51 L31 L42 M25
V1X A01 A04 A52 B41 C16
?Y6 H6X9 TX9 ??? ??????
E65 D32 PH23 TOD 155756


Its crowded but the reality is that this car was just 2 features short of “fully loaded”. The remote trunk release and the rear window defogger would have made this the total package!


Question to the membership:

1) The paint code: it’s a 3 place alpha-numeric on all the fender tags Ive seen, but on all the Plymouth paint chip charts I can find, it’s only a 2 place alpha numeric, so where do I find the 3 place codes –or how do I figure out what the first letter in front is supposed to be??

2) Is there ANY WAY I can find out the day the car was built for making the 3 place build code? The month I can figure based on the door sticker but how to narrow the build down to the day?

3) Is there any way I can find the 6 digit order sequence number? Would there be an archive of the Belvedere plant production orders?

As best as I can tell, I have a genuine GT... any doubters? I even have a "genuine" fender plate blank... but I cant make a legit plate if I don't have the 6 digit order sequence # and I would like to keep the whole project "legit" -especially since you guys will "flame" the S#!T outta me if I don't. lol.

More to post -we got 2010, 2011 to cover- and pics of the tree that fell on the godd@#m car!
 
its a curse
....citron gold...they used it a lot....had a heck of a time matchin it up on my interior as there were different variations through the whole interior...don't be surprised if theres 3-4 different variations of the same interior color...will be unique GT once its done..
:thumbsup:
 
think sequence can be found on rear quarter panel lip where trunk closes,,,may be under rubber..think its on left side
think l also heard mention they can be found on drivers fender
thinkin hy6 ...this would be the vinyl roof would it not?
 
Thanks. I'll go digging for the number under the rubber when the subfreezing weather here in New Yuk breaks.
Roof was definitely black vinyl, so the citron gold paint code would be HY6 then? How did we get the H again? just askin.
 
v1x will be Full Vinyl Top,Black
my interior was H5Y5: Trim - High, Cloth/Vinyl Bucket Seats, Unknown Color..color was gold which is the Y and the H falls back into the citron gold...there was another name for it which is slippin my mind at the moment...
 
Congratulations on a very nice restoration project. I really like the car and hope you will restore this car to its former glory.

A couple of notes, as for the color, I am not sure whether it is citron gold metallic or mystic gold metallic. When I look at the inside latch edge of the front driver door where the VIN/build date decal is placed, and where the real original paint color is most likely visible and less affected by weather, I believe your car is mystic gold metallic, which I personally like better than citron gold metallic. If that is the case, the 3 digit code would be FY4 (but if it is citron gold metallic, it would be FY6). Generally the first letter in the paint codes represents the model year when that specific color was introduced (e.g. E for 1969, F for 1970, G for 1971 and so on.......). Both of these colors were introduced in 1970 and were not carried over to any other years for exterior colors. Thus the first letter in the 3 digit code is indeed F for your car. I have the factory trim and color books for 1970 and 1971 (and other years) so I was able to use the original color charts in coming to this conclusion (non-factory color charts are not very reliable for the exact shade of the various colors - the relatively large color samples in the factory books are exact).

All you will find on the cowl top or the driver side trunk drain trough edge is the VIN number, which will be the same as the tag on your dash or as listed on the decal on the inside edge of the driver door, so don't waste your time looking for a VON (vehicle order number) there in those two places on the body cited above - it would be different. There are a couple people on this site that might be able to chime in on the availability of the VON for your car, but I suspect such information was lost when the records for these cars were destroyed. Did you by chance look under the seats or on the back of the seat backs to see if you could find a build sheet for your car? The best way to duplicate your original body code plate would be to find this sheet if it still exists in your interior and is in decent condition to be readable. If you can find one, take it out very carefully so as to not crumble it if it is in poor shape.

Good luck on the journey. It will be worth it.
 
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Great story and efforts to restore a very significant car! I'm all for a restoration on this one, I agree with Steve, it looks like FY4.

You need to find a BROADCAST SHEET,..(not a "build sheet") in your car to find the VON, or you may be incredibly lucky and have your cars BROADCAST SHEET in Barry Washington's registry.

The 1970 Hamtramck Registry Home Page

or here:

Forums / General Tech / The C-Body lost and found, broadcast sheets, fender tags, list them here! - C-Body DryDock

Check there,....it's worth a shot.

I have found partial Broadcast sheets under the front bumper mounting brackets, left and right sides. There was enough of it left to read the sequence numbers, and VIN etc....you never know.

If you had the dealer invoice, or shipping invoice, we may be able tell you the actual week, maybe day your car was produced. This is not the SPD, but the actual build week/day.

With out an SPD from the fender tag or Broadcast sheet, I think your only option is to "guesstimate" from the assembly date on the engine, and the date codes on parts. You could likely get a good "guesstimate" from those dated parts, and the engine assembly date.

Also, the 8-3/4" 3:23 ratio was standard with the GT A52 package. Sure-Grip or other ratios were optional. Spin the rear tires see what happens!

Is there any top material left under the trim to show if it was "standard", "boar" or "Gator" grain vinyl?

Does your car still have a battery heat shield, (fleet option) apparently they are standard only on a SFGT!

We could give you a list of standard option codes on all GT's that would be on your fender tag; on all GT's.



Give BillyFury a shout,...he probably knows more than anyone else about these GT cars.
 
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Another very interesting build, I will be watching. Best of luck finding the info you need.
 
It's about time you started a thread on this project, LOL! Don't let a little piece of stamped metal hold you up. I've yet to own a car with a broadcast sheet, and it always seems to be the missing cherry on top. As for the VON, find a pic of a GT With the same build date, take the next number and call it a day.....
 
On my '71 Challenger there's a date code stamped on the front of the K member which is January 25th. That's the day that the engine was bolted to it. The date on the fender tag is January 26th.
 
This is a story –a story with pictures... and it’s 8 years long…and its not over yet.

I always wanted a late 68 - 73 Mopar; a Charger or Challenger maybe. Where I live there were almost no mopars except for Dusters and scamps, and a bunch of Satellites. I did see a Charger once… just one. So the story began with the search for a Charger.

That search quickly ended when even a swiss-cheese- rusted and gutted of all interior parts Charger was commanding an $8000 to $10000 price tag. Seriously???

View attachment 112121


‘Cuda’s were in the 6 figures (WTF??) and even a lousy Duster was $20000 to $30000!


Super Bee’s, Road Runners, GTX’s were interesting but at that point I was losing interest, so I started looking at Chevy’s.

I was looking hard at Monte Carlo GT’s when the GT search term put me onto a car I’d never heard of: a Plymouth Sport Fury GT.


The one that popped up was a white GT … the car was still in pieces –as I recall it was in Georgia… I think… (I wonder now if that’s the one that ended up in Italy!). The GT was apparently in the middle of a restoration that had been aborted and the hot mess of parts and painted body was being sold. I didn’t want to deal with trying to transport a car that was in pieces from 1200 miles away, so I passed.

I continued Searching the internet for ‘Sport Fury GT’s for sale’ but that only brought up a lot of Fury III's, and a few formal roof Sport Fury's. Then finally near the end of the year, an ad on ebay for a GT.


The business in the ad about rarity and 666 cars produced prompted me to do look around on the internet for information and I found a few websites (very few) to sort out Sport Fury facts from GT facts.

The registry and Billy Fury’s website got me started but there was still some confusion about if Sport Fury was separate from Sport Fury GT and the formal roof-fast back roof thing was confusing as well since Sport Fury’s seemed to have both -a problem caused by others mis-identifying sport fury GT clones and sport fury's as GT's. I know about it all NOW but back then I had no idea. I wondered if there were more GT’s besides those in the registry but at the time, none were coming up in the search.

My brief review got me details about how many were made and how even fewer were still in existence, especially ones that still had an original engine and trans based on descriptions of cars in the registry.

So it was a muscle car, had low production numbers, and hardly any survivors… I was thinking this GT should be a pretty valuable car if its brought back to #2 condition! So maybe a restoration project was looming large in my future. Yeh I was clueless.


The GT on ebay was pretty rough. Ad said no engine or trans either. Well, maybe this guy can put an engine back in it if I sweeten the pot. I hemmed and hawed about it while watching the auction end with no bids up to his reserve. I went back to the internet looking for more GT furies. The GT went up for sale again, and again it didn’t sell.

Since it didn’t seem like I would find a sport fury in decent shape any time soon and every time I wait to buy something I want, there is NEVER another for sale ever again, so I was thinking about Monte Carlo’s again. BUT then this darn picture happened…


View attachment 112123

And after this one....

I was sold. I had to have one. Damn that picture!! I think member cancritter knows what I mean.

I kept thinking about that GT in Florida… and thinking about it… Every time I looked at that stupid rusty GT all I saw was that damn Mean shiny black monster GT… sitting in my driveway.

So even though the eBay auction had ended about 10 days prior I sent the guy an email
asking about the car. Found out the guy’s name was Karl; I asked him if the car was parted-out yet; if he knew of any other GT’s…maybe even a 440-6??

Nope not parted out yet he says, and he’ll hold off on parting it out if I’m interested in the GT, and apparently the engine and trans were still in the car! Some more emails went back and forth. I asked about the condition of the floors and the trunk: he said it had a few of the usual rust holes but the car was “solid” on the outside. Honestly I never thought to ask him anything about the details of its history.

I got his full name and address, I went to the bank to cut a check and officially began the journey down the rabbit hole. We were into December 2008 at this point.

I worked out shipping details with a carrier, coordinated with Karl for pick up while he got the car ready to be moved. Once we got past the holidays, everything was settled. That was January 2009.

Yeh I know sight unseen is a crapshoot but what was I going to do, spend $1000 in travel expenses to save $1000 on a rusty car? The car had AC, the console, the AM 8 track, power windows... I was willing to take a chance just based on the features alone. With the money having changed hands, transport arranged to New York from its former resting place under a Florida pine, the car finally arrived by car carrier on an icy January afternoon, 3 weeks after I bought it.

Unfortunately I never thought to take any pics of its arrival....
A grizzled OTR trucker unloaded it to the street while casting a wary eye in my direction as he mumbled something about ‘another dumbass New Yorker’.

Yeh yeh, it’s a southern car and the south will rise again as soon as I rebuild it, so just unload it already smarty pants.

A friend helped me push it into his yard from the street –with a lot of help from the 4 cyl. Ford I was driving at the time. With slippery ice and snow all over, we barely got it just past the fence -which I had to put back up once we squeezed the car into the yard- and there it sat for the rest of the year safe and sound.
View attachment 112132

I spent time looking over the car on a cold Saturday in January then threw that blue tarp over it for the rest of the season. It was clear I would need a lot of “original” parts so I would have to go LOOKING FOR ANOTHER Fury… and that’s the story of how I ended up with a friggen S23!

But for the moment lets continue with the GT story.

Finally, summer of 2009, I had some time to give it a more thorough look over. The car had absolutely no call-out sheet, no fender tag, just the vestigial remains of the A51 GT trim and engine package to attest to its pedigree. So I went thru the car front to back to “reverse engineer” the fender tag.

SO lets all go on this carcheological expedition together an see what comes up.

View attachment 112133


First stop: whats left of the door jam sticker says she was made in November of 1969. Assuming it’s a USA car then it’s a Y05 “build to USA specs” car.

I can guess the month but without something to tell me the “day” of production I can’t create a build date code. Come to think of it, I can’t make a proper fender tag without the vehicle order number either. ANYONE know how I would find that number?? BTW, I’ve noticed that some sport fury GT stickers have the month spelled out, others like this have just the number values. Anyone know why?

moving on...
GT decal and V4X code black strobe stripe still in place on what appears to be “Citron Gold” V01 code monotone factory paint treatment.
View attachment 112134
Yeh it looks green but the color doesn't seem to match the greens on the 1970 Plymouth paint code chart I have... if it isn't Citron Gold, what color is it?


Remaining ghost of the hood stripe tape treatment on top, next to the L31 hood mounted turn signals.


E85 code 350 horse power 440-4 underneath the power bulge hood with the 26” radiator in front and a D36 727 torqueflite trans behind it

Mud wasp apartment complex notwithstanding, I ask: is it a D57 code 3.91 ratio in a D91 code sure grip rear?
View attachment 112137

Really bummed that the N41 dual exhaust and N42 chrome exhaust tips are all gone. This was a well optioned car so I would probably not be wrong assuming it also came with the pretty exhaust tips.

Thank you, thank you for this very intriguing post about your SFGT project! I just finished reading all the other member's replies, etc., and I hafta say you have really set us on fire. . . I hope you can find the broadcast sheet for your car. It will really make your day if / when you find it. I found mine stuffed behind the springs in the rear seat bottom cushion. They say these sheets may also be found taped to the back of the glove compartment insert too. Good luck with this restoration. I will follow every minute of it.​
 
Great input guys, thanks!
I'll be pulling the engine soon and when I do I'll be scouring the K member for a date code. At least I'll have just about all of the info...
Sadly, even if the broadcast sheet HAD been in the car, every place it could have been "hidden" was destroyed by the elements -as you will see in the upcoming pics. When I went thru the car I looked in all these spots:

back side / top of the glove box insert.
Under the front bucket seats in the springs
Inside the bucket seat or bench seat backs
Under the rear seat bottom
In the rear seat back.
Under the package tray(speaker shelf)
Under the carpet

Every one of these spots had been rained on, chewed up by rodents, sun baked, and nested in. Karl- having cut out the power window motors some years ago- simply left the windows wide open for years after that. He's a mopar guy but like most others he's all about the B and E bodies... C bodies are just for the 440 engine and demolition derby. So the car sat while rodents of all sizes made a home in the car and rain water apparently filled the body until it rusted out completely allowing the water to eventually drain back out.

Unfortunately I don't see my VIN # in that Hamtramk registry either, so looks like the broadcast sheet is a bust.

But I'm determined and committed (everyone certainly thinks I SHOULD be committed) to see it through to the bitter end!

I took on the project because of that stupid picture ...and the fact that I'm the kind of guy who just can't look the other way and let this SFGT go the the scrap yard given how well optioned it was along with the rare fact that it still had its original drive train.

OOPSmeOn ConstctnJob.JPG

Yeh, this is gonna be right up my alley 'cause when it comes to something I've never done before, its 'I'll figure it out along the way, Lets get to it!' Yup, Never fear, DAVE is here!

And After this resto, for my next trick, I figure I'll restore Dan's sunfire yellow V-code VIP SFGT. Yeh, Piece of cake.
 
SPD is easy...it's tied to the cars vin #.0D153922 IS B07. 0D158285 IS B13. So yours is somewhere in between those two.
I'm currently adding 1970 C Body info to my spreadsheets....have 500 or so to add so I might get lucky and be able to nail the date.US order #'s are not easy...sales bank cars are pretty much guess work, ordered cars from a known dealership are a bit easier as the order # is on the paperwork.
 
I think it is great that you are going to do the car.

Document it heavily with pics.
I wouldn't make up a fake tag though.

Carsten
 
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