Roof rail seals 67 newport

swisherred

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I purchased the new roof rail seals from Steele Rubber and they really do seem very nice and fit well. My originals were so damaged though that I cannot exactly tell how they are glued in. Does anyone have a decent close picture of the seal with the windows up or down? The book shows it, but im having trouble grasping it from the drawing they have compared to real life.
 
I'm thinking that you are talking about the rubber gasket that runs along the inside of the top where the windows touch when they are rolled up. Wish I could help but mine is a sedan. Sorry
 
I purchased the new roof rail seals from Steele Rubber and they really do seem very nice and fit well. My originals were so damaged though that I cannot exactly tell how they are glued in. Does anyone have a decent close picture of the seal with the windows up or down? The book shows it, but im having trouble grasping it from the drawing they have compared to real life.

If I recall correctly (68 2dr) the service manual tells where to place the adhesive. I believe the channel holds it most of the way and the only adhesive is around the corner where it transitions from the front pillar to the top rail. I think the idea is to Leys it move a little in the channel for a better seal. I took pictures of my old so I could see how they installed and where the sealer was. I will see if I can find them.
 
If I recall correctly (68 2dr) the service manual tells where to place the adhesive. I believe the channel holds it most of the way and the only adhesive is around the corner where it transitions from the front pillar to the top rail. I think the idea is to Leys it move a little in the channel for a better seal. I took pictures of my old so I could see how they installed and where the sealer was. I will see if I can find them.
thank you....I see in the diagrams where the adhesive is in small sections, but im a bit confused on the square molding of the rubber (inside edge)....it technically can fit two ways one loose and one tight...I just want to make sure before I glue it in the wrong position.
 
with these being from steele and not mopar, they are lacking the reference points for indexing as well....leaves a little to be desired, but id still give them at least an 8/10
 
Mine are from Metro moulding.
Drivers door. Pointy end.
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It seems I didn’t put all the sealer on.
Top rail outside

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Top rail inside
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Top rail inside
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Found a profile piece. I also found my original. A little different profile. But once installed looks the same.
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ok...now that explains what I needed...mine are a little different. Where you seem to have two forms (a pillar and then the rail) I have 3. A pillar, front window rail and rear window rail. 3 different profiles. Your TOP RAIL INSDE pictures are exactly what I needed. Mine had some sealer on the square portion of the profile, but I couldnt tell if it faced up or to the inside. It seems to face inside.
 
Original piece. Not sure if it helps or not. Only sealer I found is down by the door.
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My rear window profile looks a little different on the original as well, but under close inspection it is probably due to the rear window only exerting a vertical force whereas the door slamming gives more horizontal pressure.
 
I was thinking the glass fit inside that channel, but apparently it catches the outside and closes that channel...I could make it fit either way. thank you greatly...that really answers what I needed to know. I think mine may have been repaired...as it has sealer down the rail where it wasnt shown in the books...almost 2 feet of it.
 
My rear window profile looks a little different on the original as well, but under close inspection it is probably due to the rear window only exerting a vertical force whereas the door slamming gives more horizontal pressure.
From what I can tell the A pillar seals the window frame, then the front window seals horizontally against the upper flap while the rear window actually has a triangular flap because it rolls up only...no sideways movement. I can post pictures when my phone charges some.
 
I sure it was at the discretion of the installer.
Your window height adjustment is critical so your door closes easily but sealed, but doesn’t rip the seal.
The top of the window barely catches the lip of the seal. I think the manual explains this as well.
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The 3rd profile must have changed between ‘67 & ‘68
 
Finally got it in correctly. I did not glue it yet because I going to remove it later when I paint the door jambs but it is holding firm just fine. I did have to adjust the door window because it no longer closed against the foam well or against the rear window because the rear window didnt roll up that last 1/4" or so that it used to with the worn out foam. Everything seals pretty decent. Enough that water wont come in anyway. I will worry about getting it spot on after I remove and paint the doors later in the year. thanks for the help on this one.

now for the other side...
 
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