Running hot

crazyboutwagons

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The wagon has ben starting to run a little hotter than before (190-195)degrees.
I replaced the fan clutch which helped on the highway(210 degress) now runs around 200.
Today I warmed it up driving around neighborhood for about 20 mins. I came back and checked temps with a hand held infared temp gun. the temps are as follow.

temp gauge reads 190
took temps with engine running
top radiator tank 200 degrees
top radiator hose 201 degrees
water pump housing 187 degrees
lower radiator hose 147 degress
lower radiator tank 145 degress
middle of radiator 147 degrees
I am thinking radiator is plugged somewhere . Will call local radiator shop next week and take and have them flush /boil it out. Next step might be new highflow waterpump I replaced it about 7 yrs ago I checked the old one it was a 6 vane which I have read is proper for the 383hp with a/c. I checked the number on the box for the one I put in. it comes up as a 8 vane which should be for a non a/c car .

My question is it worth the money for a high flow aftermarket water pump and is there really much difference between a 6 vane and 8 vane pump. Car ran before around 175 to 180 degrees. I just want to enjoy the car without constantly looking at the temp gauge my wife is now always watching it too.
 
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Davea Lux

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Have you checked the thermostat to be sure it is opening all the way. Going to the hi flow pump will not help if the radiator is clogged or T-Stat is bad, and it is usually a waste of money on a stock engine. Might help to go to a high flow Robert Shaw T-Stat. Have you changed the timing settings? Too far advanced can also cause the engine to run hotter.

Dave
 

thrashingcows

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Have you done any carb work? I once hooked up the vacuum advance to a constant vacuum source off the TQ I was running and had over heating issues for days until I figured out what I had done wrong.
 

crazyboutwagons

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had radiator flushed and changed antifreeze 2 years ago (2500 mi) . haven't done anything to the timing or carb . think I'll start with radiator flush/boil. the thermostat looks like a pain to change being car has factory A/C . the thermostat housing is directly under the compressor can't access the bolts . will have to look at the FSM for how to.
 

stubs300

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had radiator flushed and changed antifreeze 2 years ago (2500 mi) . haven't done anything to the timing or carb . think I'll start with radiator flush/boil.

I would, 2 years is pretty much standard time frame for it regardless of miles. Good Luck
 

mrfury68

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With a 55 degree difference between the upper and lower rad tanks I'd think your rad is doing the job. Mine is usually 185 -190 at the upper tank and 140 -150 lower. 383 2bbl with A/C. My factory gauge reads midway through the normal range, to the right of center. It climbs a bit when going up a hill but drops again when cruising normally. The T-stat is a PITA to change with the A/C compressor in the way but not impossible. A universal joint on a socket helps greatly. Any questions or if you need an extra set of eyes, send me a PM. I'm only 10 minutes from you. Good luck.
 

CBODY67

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What is not admitted to on the a/c vs. non-a/c pumps is the PULLEY drive ratio between the two systems. The water pump pulleys are NOT the same size for both. The a/c pump has fewer vanes, but runs faster than the non-a/c pump with more vanes. Everybody usually keys on the a/c pump being better and taking less power to run it, due to the fewer vanes AND the fact it's the one that the MP Race Manual said to run on drag race cars (for the perceived less power consumption of the pump).

Remember that a "high flow" pump can be negated by the flow restrictions in the head gaskets AND by the flow restriction of the THERMOSTAT itself. Those restrictions are there for a purpose, to keep the coolant flow through the system at a rate that allows it to absorb MORE heat for dissipation by the radiator. Faster-flowing coolant and also result in more turbulence in the system itself (think cylinder head castings and the block casting itself).

In many cases, the first thing people consider when a perceived over-heat situation arises is the radiator and/or thermostat. Those are the most visible and easiest things to deal with. Unfortunately, on older vehicles, the sediment that also restricts the radiator CAN also seek the lowest part of the cooling system to settle-out. Which means the rear portion of the cyoinder block. Only way to get that stuff out is to remove the freeze plugs and rinse it all out manually and messily. BUT when that's done, the FULL system is clean and ready to go again. So use that heat gun to also check the sides of the block, front to back, for readings, too.

Making sure the carb and ignition are in good shape can be issues of lesser importance, from what I've seen, but still important to know they are where they need to be. AND, of course, the radiator hoses being of quality rubber and such, too.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 

70bigblockdodge

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I agree the thermostat is /probably your problem. Your losing over 50°, on a hot day 80+ the air temp difference is only 120 from hottest coolant. Your losing around half of the temperature difference between air and coolant. Your radiator is working, also proved by fan clutch change. More air through radiator temp went down. I would look at the thermostat first. They do stick and we all know how quality is nowadays. Good luck.
 

crazyboutwagons

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thanks for all the suggestions. I am going to have radiator flushed/cleaned and new coolant put in since its been a couple years and see how that goes. will give me peace of mind that coolant and radiator are good to go. then see how it goes from there.
 

crazyboutwagons

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******************** UPDATE ********************
I got the wagon back today the radiator shop had the car for a week. they removed the radiator and boiled it for 2 days. Then they removed the tanks and rodded out all the loose junk then resoidered the tanks back on pressure tested it then repainted it. Pulled the thermostat ( which was in pieces) then replaced it with a heavy duty 160 degree one also replaced the housing which previously had been overtightened and was crushed impeding the waterflow.
Completely flushed the engine and heater core.Installed the radiator with new hoses & cap. Filled with new anti freeze. I drove it for about 1/2 hour never got above 160 degrees. So happy with it now hopefully no more driving with constantly looking at the temperature gauge.
 
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Trace 300 Hurst

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******************** UPDATE ********************
I got the wagon back today the radiator shop had the car for a week. So happy with it now hopefully no more driving with constantly looking at the temperature gauge.

Good report! Hopefully, your example of doing the right thing by fully attacking the overheating problems of a 50+ year old car will inspire others to do the same thing instead of cheaping-out with stopgap measures.

I did the same thing with my overheating car last year by replacing and/or flushing EVERYTHING. New rad and quality repro cap, hoses, 'stat and housing, flushing block with the water pump off (so messy, so much crud came out!), and flushing the heater core. Now I run at 180* all the time, AC on, in miserable Florida temps. Like you, I'm "so happy". :thumbsup:

But I still look at that damn temp gage too often. :rofl:

August 2019.  Done.JPG
 

crazyboutwagons

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Trace 300 Hurst: I probably will keep looking at the temp gauge also. I May replace the hood to radiator seal also as mine is complete but not to flexible. I have taken it off and worked it with leather conditioner loosened it up some but still stiff. don't know if it matters but cant hurt as Chrysler put it there for a reason. Will keep you guys posted as I try to get some driving time in before winter.
 

Trace 300 Hurst

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Funny about that gauge habit, huh? :BangHead:

You have a rad shroud? That wind tunnel device really helps pull air across the core! But it sounds like you've solved the problem for the next 50 years.
 

crazyboutwagons

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Yes car is factory original with the 383-4bl factory A/C which works and 26 inch radiator with shroud and 7 blade fan with new clutch.
 

mrfury68

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Glad to hear you got it fixed. Since you live near me, what rad shop did you use? I know Bethel Radiator is good with "old school" work.
 

crazyboutwagons

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Yes I used Bethel Auto Radiator in BethelPark,Pa. Used them years ago that repair was still going strong 10 years later when I sold the car. so went back to them. Joe the owner is easy to deal with and like mrfury68 said old school. He had a brand new American made thermosat & housing in stock so no cheap Chinese junk repair should last a long time. A truly dedicated business owner if anybody in the Pittsburgh area needs radiator/gas tank or A/C repairs this is the place to go
 
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