Sanden 508 top exit vs rear exit...

GBsPanhead

Active Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2018
Messages
347
Reaction score
300
Location
Los Angeles (Whittier)
I've seen both styles, but the ones I seen here on the forum are all top exit. I think I saw one rear exit, but not sure. Would the rear exit fit and clear every thing on my stock 69 440 300 'vert? That's my concern. On the top exit style, can the compressor be rotated so connections exit to the sides, (left side), instead of the top? I think I saw that somewhere on the site, but was not a 440 C-body. I know the second pic is not Sanden just a pic of top exit style.

I'm putting the list together and buying parts to start installing the AC in my non AC car. Thanks!

rear exit.JPG


top exit.JPG
 
The main reason for the rear exit is to insure adequate clearance for the hood. If that is not an issue for your application, then the compressor should work provided the appropriate fittings are available. The RV2 compressor was a big unit so there will usually be adequate room for with either type of Sanden compressor, but you would want to check with the distributor regarding the brackets to mount the unit and what they recommend.

Dave
 
This is a probably a dual snorkel air cleaner application, your main issue will be clearing the air intakes as refrigerant hoses cant be left rubbing anything. For that reason, the top exit might be a better choice.

Dave
 
There are about 15 or so different rear caps for the Sanden compressors. Personally, I never did like the more common "up and out" connections. Kind of reminded me of "bug antennae". There is also a GM rear cap, which might make for a neater installation and use some readily available OEM-style hose fittings. Just my orientations on that subject.

CBODY67
 
You are right Dave! I'm the guy with the dual snorkel setup lol. That's what I'm thinking about the hoses interfering with the snorkel(s). Was just out looking under the hood again.
 
You would need to check to with the distributor to see if rotating the discharge will void the warranty. They might be fussy about such things.

Dave
 
You would need to check to with the distributor to see if rotating the discharge will void the warranty. They might be fussy about such things.

Dave

Was just reading an email I got today from Bouchillon, states on their website they recommend for a cleaner install, to rotate the SD508 to the right, like I was thinking, using 45* fittings. Makes for a cleaner install he stated. Also need to change pulleys I see! lol
 
Was just reading an email I got today from Bouchillon, states on their website they recommend for a cleaner install, to rotate the SD508 to the right, like I was thinking, using 45* fittings. Makes for a cleaner install he stated. Also need to change pulleys I see! lol

I think either CanCritter or Wolfen listed all the parts needed for this conversion some place on this site. Might try PM them to bring the thread back up.

Dave
 
When you get around to removing the old hoses from your system, be advised that the fittings for the evaporator and condenser have a bad habit of fusing. This can result in a ruined evaporator or condenser. I find that heating the connections first will usually break then loose. Be sure to install the modern green O-Rings every place you can as the will be a great help in controlling leakage with R-134a.

Dave
 
Last edited:
Hey Dave, I don't have ANY AC at the moment, so no existing evap, or condenser to deal with. This is a non AC car. Adding aftermarket, all new stuff...evap, condenser, Mark IV underdash, etc.
 
Dig, Poke, isn't it cheaper to put the top down?

Dave

I had a Corvette convertible, never used the AC with top down, but if the Wife is with me, that's a different story!!

I have to measure my pulleys...I see on ebay 440 AC 2 groove pulleys, and 4 groove AC crank pulleys, but sellers listing different sizes. So not sure what size I need. All the pulleys are within a 1/4" from what I can see. One seller lists his pully at 6", another at 5 and 7/8, another at 6 and 1/4. A little confusing. I searched those two member you mentioned, didn't see anything really from them about converting non AC car to AC. I'm still researchin'! lol
 
With a rotary compressor, as long as the off set is correct to line up with the alternator (you will need a 2 grove pulley on that) and the compressor, it won't make too much difference. The stock A/C used a 4 groove pulley setup on the crank. One with an idler runs the fan, one runs the power steering and the outer two groves ran the alternator and the A/C compressor. Note that the A/C cars ran a smaller pulley on the water pump and I think more vanes on the pump rotor. The A/C cars also used a higher output alternator.

Dave
 
Here's a pic of current pulleys/belts. One belt runs from alternator, down around crank pulley, (2 groove), and water pump pulley, (1 groove). Second belt is on front of crank pulley to PS pump. That's all I have. Alternator already has a 2 groove pulley

Dave, what would I need to add pulley wise? Just a 2 groove water pump pulley? Or that, plus a 4 groove crank pulley? I'm reading a thread where I think BigJohn added just maybe a 2 groove water pulley. I don't want to add the idler setup. Trying to keep it simple! Good luck with that I'm thinking lol!

pulley1.jpg
 
Sanden compressor.
BOUCHELON bracket.
Nothing else. It's a Plug n Play.
Besides making up new hoses.

Simple enuff??????

picsart_07-24-04-03-39-jpg.jpg


NOT a fan of rear exit out to under the air cleaner.
 
Last edited:
So Commando...what pulleys are you using? Is your crank pulley 2 or 4 groove? Water pump is 2 groove? Any pics of pulleys and how belts are routed? What length belt did you have to switch to? Thanks!! Looking close at your pic, I see how AC is routed I think, but not sure on pulleys. This is currently a non oem ac car, so have non ac pulleys.
 
So Commando...what pulleys are you using? Is your crank pulley 2 or 4 groove? Water pump is 2 groove? Any pics of pulleys and how belts are routed? What length belt did you have to switch to? Thanks!! Looking close at your pic, I see how AC is routed I think, but not sure on pulleys. This is currently a non oem ac car, so have non ac pulleys.
My stock 4 grove crank pulley and 2 groove alternator. Stock routing..
Used the same belts.
All I bought was the bracket. In the beginning I overthought it. There was no need to.
 
Back
Top