Should i spray anything?

saylor

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no ones saying you may have sensitive to the grease dont get it on your hands skin

no ones asking about the AMP bypass wiring in the new harness


. . . i am dissappoint.

try not to die -

- saylor
 

Fratzog

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Not a fan of dielectric grease myself. IMHO, most people use it incorrectly. The word "dielectric" roughly means "insulator". Look it up...

What I do is to clean the contacts with De-Oxit. It cleans and helps protect the connectors. This bottle will last you years.

https://smile.amazon.com/CAIG-Labor...=sr_1_6?keywords=deoxit&qid=1578877024&sr=8-6


If you want to use dielectric grease, the correct way is to coat the outside of the insulator where it plugs into the connector to seal the connections.
Thanks for the info. Now on my Amazon wish list. Noticed it also comes in a spray can.
 

fins2fuselage

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I checked Amazon for DeoxIT and found quite a few different versions of the product Amazon.com: de-oxit. Which one is best for working on automotive wiring? Hopefully one of the less-costly ones . . .

Jeff
 

notsosan

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Dielectric grease is an insulator, not a conductor. You use it around connections where you don't want leakage like on the outside of spark plug connections, not on the contacts. There are conducting greases you can get and I have thought about using them. My 300 just doesn't go out unless I can put the top down. That seems to work.
 

carguy300

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I just got my Deoxit through Parts Express, took 2 days. NOW!, my problem is after I unplugged harnesses from bulkhead I found the middle connection melted. Wires have been cut and spliced through firewall to under dash. I think its time to get all new bulkhead connections and correct this mess the right way! Does anyone know where I can get bulkhead connectors and necessary hardware for 68 300? I did get my new engine compartment harness already.
 

Big_John

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I checked Amazon for DeoxIT and found quite a few different versions of the product Amazon.com: de-oxit. Which one is best for working on automotive wiring? Hopefully one of the less-costly ones . . .

Jeff
I use the red in the bottle. I think I bought the bottle 5 years ago and haven't used even half. That seems to be the most "does it all" version. IIRC, I think the gold version is aimed at high end stereo applications, but I could be way off on that one.
 

Big_John

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I just got my Deoxit through Parts Express, took 2 days. NOW!, my problem is after I unplugged harnesses from bulkhead I found the middle connection melted. Wires have been cut and spliced through firewall to under dash. I think its time to get all new bulkhead connections and correct this mess the right way! Does anyone know where I can get bulkhead connectors and necessary hardware for 68 300? I did get my new engine compartment harness already.
Look on eBay. Try Mopar bulkhead connectors and searches like that. Don't be surprised if your application isn't listed. Their target audience is the B and E body restoration crowd. Just look for the same configuration.

Others may have some online sources.
 

carguy300

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Thats what ive seen most is B bodies. Wasnt sure if it would work or not. Dont want to keep butchering wires up. Trying to do it right.
 

robert siliani

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I checked Amazon for DeoxIT and found quite a few different versions of the product Amazon.com: de-oxit. Which one is best for working on automotive wiring? Hopefully one of the less-costly ones . . .

Jeff
I also endorse DeOxit.
I have used it on my motorcycle connections for years. As you can realize, ALL motorcycle connections are exposed to all kinds of weather and exposure.
If you buy their ( kit ), that should be more than enough for your car's needs. I'm not home now, but will try to post kit number.
 

fins2fuselage

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I use the red in the bottle. I think I bought the bottle 5 years ago and haven't used even half. That seems to be the most "does it all" version. IIRC, I think the gold version is aimed at high end stereo applications, but I could be way off on that one.
Thanks, Big John!
Jeff
 
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