Single stage metallic

cm23uoc

Old Man with a Hat
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There should be way more experience and Special products for These old paints in the US; the Problem of refurbishing that Kind of paint practically doesn't exist in Germany as These were very rarely ordered.

I do have a rather unmolested original paint car in a medium blue met. but the owners of the past decades did nothing than occasionally washing it, they shied away from polish or wax due to lack of experience with proper products.

First step will be using this Special clay to get all the dirt out, but what step is next, what products to use ?
There's still a solid paint coat on with no thin spots but paint is flat plus a couple of darker stains from Sprinkler water as it was parked in a Garage where at some spot there was a fire; no actual fire damage of the car though.

Experienced advise is highly appreciated.
 
I personally would buff it out. I really like 3M Perfect-it II machine polish, and then the ultra fine polish. There is no grit in it like rubbing compound. It takes the use of a really buffer not a polisher. If you are not comfortable with a buffer you might want to take it to be professionally done, or be like me l learned how to use a buffer on old work vans and trucks.

It is pretty easy to burn through old paint especially on a leading edge. I actually laided down 1/4 inch masking tape on any edges that I thought I might burn through.
 
Lot's of good info here: http://www.autogeek.net/carwax.html Pay attention to the dual action polishing guide.

I'd clay bar it first (I like Meguiars mild blue with their detail spray as lube) and see how it looks before getting the buffer out.... and then I would use the Porter Cable 7424... Hard to burn through the paint and you won't leave swirl marks.
 
do not buff it out u can not put that paint back on hand wax it
use a cleaner wax
and clay bar it
i just did this on my car
again dont buff it hand wax it i use meguiars stuff
 
There will always be a difference of opinion if you can get the result you want by hand that is great. I am always for the least aggressive method, but my 300 paint was so dirty and ground in the buffer was the only means to get good result.

I have the porter cable polisher too it is nearly impossible to hurt the paint with it. It is a good place to start in my opinion if you have swirls still in the paint, after exhausting technique by hand.

I personally buffed my 300 which was a single stage original metallic gold. I had no issues burning through paint and was happy with the results where I had good paint, but I ended up repainting because of the body work and trunk lid was a shelf for years, so it was toast. I would not recommend this if this is your first car things can go terribly wrong, because there is a bit of art to it.

I just found this photo the driver side was buffed out the other was the best I could do by hand. My car paint was really bad though it sat for 32 years and you couldn't even tell that is was metallic until it was buffed.

Half the hood buffed out - Copy.jpg

Half the hood buffed out - Copy.jpg
 
Below are my tools. To buff/polish is the Makita 9227 with wool pad and to remove swirls is the Makita B06040 with either orange or red foam pad. I sue Wizards for polishing and Sure Finish for swirl removal. You can tape the edges which I rarely do unless there is another edge nearby. I simply polish off the edge rather than onto the edge. Just finished the hood of a 91 Mazda 626 where the clear coat failed. Prepped, repainted bc/cc, color sanded with 1500/3000 and then my two Makitas. Start slow at 1000 rpm with some pressure and as you see shine in the section you are working then speed up to 3000 rpm with a light touch. I use a water spray bottle at that point to renew the Wizards Mystic Cut.

Tools_polish.jpg
 
Here are some videos from a fellow who does very high end cars for shows such as Pebble Beach and auctions also. Robert is a very busy guy but when I was having a problem he gave me his phone number to call him and we talked for 1/2 hour on how to polish. Look at the 3rd video about faded paint.
[video=youtube_share;9LngsIHuGfc]http://youtu.be/9LngsIHuGfc[/video]
 
I did my 1968 300 (Consort Blue metallic) a couple years ago.
original paint looked almost purple
1500-2000 grit wet sand
Griot's buffer (just like the Porter cable 7424)
various Meguiars compounds followed by Griots machine polish.
 
Thanks a lot. Gonna start with the clay first I think as initially planned and then see how the dirt Comes out first. I'm with Robert, the professional guy in tbm3 s link not to try to get out the deepest scratches and other imperfections; try the least evasive things first and then decide if I really go on with buffing with the machine; I did a couple cars, but None with this rather sensitive single stage met. paint. I can lend a professional machine from a friend in case, the paint isn't thin as there seems to never have seen any abrasive applications.
 
Thanks a lot. Gonna start with the clay first I think as initially planned and then see how the dirt Comes out first. I'm with Robert, the professional guy in tbm3 s link not to try to get out the deepest scratches and other imperfections; try the least evasive things first and then decide if I really go on with buffing with the machine; I did a couple cars, but None with this rather sensitive single stage met. paint. I can lend a professional machine from a friend in case, the paint isn't thin as there seems to never have seen any abrasive applications.

Now take note that my two machines do different things. The 9227 is a polisher and I also use it to strip paint either via 80 grit or a 3M removal disc. The BO6040 is an orbital polisher which has two settings unlike most. One setting is your familiar random orbit for laying down wax. The other setting is forced orbit which is what Robert is using to polish a little more gently that with the 9227 and wool. Random orbit could take to the end of time to remove swirls while forced orbit could do it in a few minutes.
 
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http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...w-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html

No Mopar, but problem's the same. I went for Starters with polishing by Hand and the recommended Show car glaze no.7 as was done in above link. Before that I took a clay bar from German Sonax Co. to remove dirt, there wasn't much on as the Color of the bar only changed a Little. Polishing afterwards resulted in a real shiny unclouded Surface except for the Problem Areas Hood and Roof, it improved considerably but the only Chance of an even greater improvement before putting wax on will be with machines. The stains on the Roof from the fire sprinkling system however go all through the old paint, no Chance to get them removed.

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Great looking car, Klaus. Love the color! Lets see more of it when you get a chance.
 
Great looking car, Klaus. Love the color! Lets see more of it when you get a chance.

It's a 71 GM Opel Rekord CarAvan, something like a Bel Air Townsman would have been in the US and design is influenced by US GM for sure. No factory Options but extra cost met. paint. Color is called Monza blue met. and I would bet if you analyze it, it would turn out to be a match to some US GM Color, probably the best one still around in unrestored 27k mls condition and original single stage met. paint. Loved it eversince I first saw it 8 years ago.

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