Dsertdog
Old man with an old guitar, and a blue note.
As I prepare to convert Miz Ruby to a dual master cylinder, I discovered that the sealing ring casting had been broken. I procured a new rig off of E bay, noting that this piece is not easy to find. Also ordered were two Ford filters from West Coast Cougars.
![000_0086[1].JPG](https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/attachments/000_0086-1-jpg.394534/ "000_0086[1].JPG")
I had to double stack the filters because they were thinner than the element I removed, but in fitting up everything I found something that probably caused the original casting to snap.
![000_0087[1].JPG](https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/attachments/000_0087-1-jpg.394535/ "000_0087[1].JPG")
^ These are the two master cylinders, a Mexi-rebuilt (Cardone) and a New Chinesium piece (Dorman) The guts of both are held in by a tear drop shaped piece of steel with a Philips head screw fastener. Just like OEM...
Look closely and you'll see gaps. This is where the casting is sitting on top of the screw. When you tighten things down to factory torque that will cause tension and (snap) along with a vacuum leak.
![000_0089[1].JPG](https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/attachments/000_0089-1-jpg.394538/ "000_0089[1].JPG")
The solution I chose was to file down the screw. Took about an hour of work. Be careful and stop occasionally to clear out filings.
You should have a nice fit around the plastic filter holder as below. The filter casting should not wobble on the screw and I also filed the casting where the screw rests to increase clearance between the screw and the casting.
![000_0091[1].JPG](https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/attachments/000_0091-1-jpg.394543/ "000_0091[1].JPG")
^The filter housing will also rest fairly tight against the master cylinder mounting face. It should also provide a more even "crush" against the bellows on the booster to seal everything correctly.
Perhaps OEM cylinders use a smaller countersunk screw. My single pot master had the same setup so I don't know.
I hope this will prevent some frustration.
I had to double stack the filters because they were thinner than the element I removed, but in fitting up everything I found something that probably caused the original casting to snap.
^ These are the two master cylinders, a Mexi-rebuilt (Cardone) and a New Chinesium piece (Dorman) The guts of both are held in by a tear drop shaped piece of steel with a Philips head screw fastener. Just like OEM...
Look closely and you'll see gaps. This is where the casting is sitting on top of the screw. When you tighten things down to factory torque that will cause tension and (snap) along with a vacuum leak.
The solution I chose was to file down the screw. Took about an hour of work. Be careful and stop occasionally to clear out filings.
You should have a nice fit around the plastic filter holder as below. The filter casting should not wobble on the screw and I also filed the casting where the screw rests to increase clearance between the screw and the casting.
^The filter housing will also rest fairly tight against the master cylinder mounting face. It should also provide a more even "crush" against the bellows on the booster to seal everything correctly.
Perhaps OEM cylinders use a smaller countersunk screw. My single pot master had the same setup so I don't know.
I hope this will prevent some frustration.
