Stalling on incline. Why?

[Joseph James]

If I stop on a steep incline nose down the car will stall. Otherwise it is driving fine and I drive it everyday. Yesterday, it almost caused a dangerous situation but started right back up.

383 with a 2 barrel BBD and 727 transmission.

 

[69PHOENIX]

G'Day,
Offered my two cents on a similar sort of Post a few days ago.
May have nothing to do with your situation.
The 383 2 barrel carbies have an air filter set up whereby when the filter is tightened down it pulls the top plate away from the body of the carby.
As you may imagine over forty or fifty years this distorts the top plate
I'm thinking that on a Steep Slope enough fuel may be leaking into the Throats to flood the motor.
When you restart the fuel is flushed through & the car starts.
I'm only an old Bush Mechanic but, If all else fails, check the Top plate for "Trueness" by using a sheet of glass & sandpaper.
This will show any distortion.
Hope this Helps.
Tony.M

 

[CBODY67]

When it starts back up, does it restart easily, need a bit more "crank time", and/or does it smell of gasoline and restart with a cloud of black smoke from the exhaust pipe? When this happens, to confirm, which end of the vehicle is higher than the other one? What fuel level is in the fuel tank? Are these easy stops or otherwise? From what speed?

As the jsts in the BBD are more toward the center of the carb, it would be hard for a "nose-down" attitude to uncover them. As the BBDS are not very prone for the air horn to warp upward from over-torque of the air cleaner wing nut (as the Stromberg WWC and Hollley 2210/2245 2bbls are), I feel safe we can presume the gasket between the carb body and air horn (where the rear of the float bowl seals, separatring it from the venturi area) is working as it should.

Any vacuum leaks when the brake booster is activated? Hissing? Engine missing or running unsteadily?

Oil level in the engine? Which might trigger a low oil pressure light as a result BEFORE the engine stops?e

Any possisble wiring harness interferences with the brake pedal mechanism, under the dash?

That's about all I can think of.

Take caree,
CBODY67

 

[Joseph James]

G'Day,
Offered my two cents on a similar sort of Post a few days ago.
May have nothing to do with your situation.
The 383 2 barrel carbies have an air filter set up whereby when the filter is tightened down it pulls the top plate away from the body of the carby.
As you may imagine over forty or fifty years this distorts the top plate
I'm thinking that on a Steep Slope enough fuel may be leaking into the Throats to flood the motor.
When you restart the fuel is flushed through & the car starts.
I'm only an old Bush Mechanic but, If all else fails, check the Top plate for "Trueness" by using a sheet of glass & sandpaper.
This will show any distortion.
Hope this Helps.
Tony.M

If I break the air filter wing nut loose idle speed goes up.

 

[Joseph James]

When it starts back up, does it restart easily, need a bit more "crank time", and/or does it smell of gasoline and restart with a cloud of black smoke from the exhaust pipe? When this happens, to confirm, which end of the vehicle is higher than the other one? What fuel level is in the fuel tank? Are these easy stops or otherwise? From what speed?

As the jsts in the BBD are more toward the center of the carb, it would be hard for a "nose-down" attitude to uncover them. As the BBDS are not very prone for the air horn to warp upward from over-torque of the air cleaner wing nut (as the Stromberg WWC and Hollley 2210/2245 2bbls are), I feel safe we can presume the gasket between the carb body and air horn (where the rear of the float bowl seals, separatring it from the venturi area) is working as it should.

Any vacuum leaks when the brake booster is activated? Hissing? Engine missing or running unsteadily?

Oil level in the engine? Which might trigger a low oil pressure light as a result BEFORE the engine stops?e

Any possisble wiring harness interferences with the brake pedal mechanism, under the dash?

That's about all I can think of.

Take caree,
CBODY67

Starts hard on the incline. Yesterday, it died as I rolled out on the highway. Started right up but was in highway and level. Other time on a very steep hill that I couldn’t roll out because of traffic it took a bit to restart.

Oil level is good. I check it daily and have a motor with only 8k miles and no leaks.

vacuum is only pcv and ignition advance. I have manual brakes. No leaks I am aware of.

The carb is a rebuilt one from RA. Wish I had kept the original. Could a float problem cause this?

Going over new speed bumps at work I had to hit the brakes to keep from scraping (new speed bumps are too high, we had someone bust an oil pan already) and it stalled. Level ground.

 

[Davea Lux]

Sometimes a car will stall out on an incline if the pickup tube in the gas tank has a pin hole in it from rust. Will also stall out from fuel starvation when the fuel level drops below a certain point. Fill the tank with gas and see if it still stalls on an incline. That will be you quick check for a perforated pickup tube. Also check the fuel filter as going up an incline will use more fuel and a clogged filter may not be up to the task of increased flow.

Dave

 

[Joseph James]

Sometimes a car will stall out on an incline if the pickup tube in the gas tank has a pin hole in it from rust. Will also stall out from fuel starvation when the fuel level drops below a certain point. Fill the tank with gas and see if it still stalls on an incline. That will be you quick check for a perforated pickup tube. Also check the fuel filter as going up an incline will use more fuel and a clogged filter may not be up to the task of increased flow.

Dave

Thanks, Dave. I have to pull gas tank this weekend anyway to try and get the fuel gauge correct. The sender and fuel line are new. I will check it all.

 

[CBODY67]

When you pull the tank and such, have a new piece of fuel line to replace the one between the tank and the chassis fuel line. Be sure to be careful with the ground strap that is the two clamps for that rubber line, too, so the fuel gauge in the dash will work.

While you're under there, also verify the conditrion of the short section of rubber fuel line near where the chassis line ends and the stub frame section of fuel line begins, plus the section on the input side of the fuel pump. If they show ANY
signs of degrading, replace them all, especially if they are OEM rubber as they could be ethanol'd and ready to fail . . . if you haven't already done so.

With the car tilted, you might jar the muffler with your hand, listening for any looseness internally.

Thanks for the replies and info!
CBODY67

 

[Davea Lux]

Thanks, Dave. I have to pull gas tank this weekend anyway to try and get the fuel gauge correct. The sender and fuel line are new. I will check it all.

You might have to get an after market CVR to get the gauge to read correctly. A bunch of the new fuel sending units that were produced in China have the wrong resistance wire installed and will not read properly with a stock cluster regulator. Just a heads up. While you have the sender out, check the float for fuel intrusion, a lot of the Sinco crap has leaky solder joints as well. You do know that tank does not have to come out to pull the sender and adjust the float arm? Be sure the vehicle does not have much fuel in it before pulling the sender and do not use metal tools to pull the lock ring.

Dave

 

[1970FuryConv]

Be sure the vehicle does not have much fuel in it before pulling the sender and do not use metal tools to pull the lock ring. Dave

Why not metal tools on lock ring? I always used an old flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to turn the lock ring and remove. Is 1967-1968 different? Thanks, Ben

 

[Davea Lux]

Why not metal tools on lock ring? I always used an old flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to turn the lock ring and remove. Is 1967-1968 different? Thanks, Ben

You can use a brass tool but a steel tool can cause a spark if the lock ring has started to come loose and potentially ignite fuel vapor. You do not want to be under the fuel tank if that happens.

Dave

 

[Joseph James]

You might have to get an after market CVR to get the gauge to read correctly. A bunch of the new fuel sending units that were produced in China have the wrong resistance wire installed and will not read properly with a stock cluster regulator. Just a heads up. While you have the sender out, check the float for fuel intrusion, a lot of the Sinco crap has leaky solder joints as well. You do know that tank does not have to come out to pull the sender and adjust the float arm? Be sure the vehicle does not have much fuel in it before pulling the sender and do not use metal tools to pull the lock ring.

Dave

I thought I would pull the tank so I can bend the float arm and then run a coat hanger or something in from opposite (fill) end to run float up and check the gauge. I plan on connecting sending unit via alligator clip leads and wire.

I do have a brass punch I used on the lock ring when I replaced the tank and sender.

 

[Joseph James]

When you pull the tank and such, have a new piece of fuel line to replace the one between the tank and the chassis fuel line. Be sure to be careful with the ground strap that is the two clamps for that rubber line, too, so the fuel gauge in the dash will work.

While you're under there, also verify the conditrion of the short section of rubber fuel line near where the chassis line ends and the stub frame section of fuel line begins, plus the section on the input side of the fuel pump. If they show ANY
signs of degrading, replace them all, especially if they are OEM rubber as they could be ethanol'd and ready to fail . . . if you haven't already done so.

With the car tilted, you might jar the muffler with your hand, listening for any looseness internally.

Thanks for the replies and info!
CBODY67

Thanks. I will be checking everything. Back when I bought the car that rubber line at stub frame was only held together by its cord! The fuel line is a new Inline Tube unit (a pre-bent line install sucks).

I do have a new muffler although I discovered the nut fell off the exhaust manifold donut gasket. I tightened hell out of it when we installed the motor.

I also get the stall if I hit the brakes hard at speed bumps at work. Level ground. Cranks right back up.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Bumps and inclines don't stop fuel pumps and spark. Something strange with carb.

 

[MoPar Maniac]

Sounds like float level out of adjustment or has fuel inside the float.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Lots of carter BBD floats on ebay. Cheap prices too. Matching rebuild kit and you'd be ready to go. Carter 2 BBL is an easy rebuild. I've got a rebuilt Carter 2 BBL from a 318 that I could sell you, but it's 1970 and not sure if same cfm.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRASS-FLOA...692728&hash=item3f8409a6e9:g:PjoAAOSwxKBZiyf0

 

[CBODY67]

Only two Carter BBDs on Chrysler products. The "318" size 1.44" throttle bores and the "383" size, with 1.56" throttle bores. Which was possibly used on the earlier 361 2bbls too? Each throttle bore size needs to have the same hole size in the intake manifold mounting area it bolts to.

AFAIK,
CBODY67

 

[FrankieD]

If I stop on a steep incline nose down the car will stall. Otherwise it is driving fine and I drive it everyday. Yesterday, it almost caused a dangerous situation but started right back up.

For what its worth, I had a similar issue with my 66 300. Turned out to be wiring harness related at the firewall.

 

[Sugi]

How's the fuel pump? The reason I ask is that I was having start problems, but only when the nose was slightly elevated or I did not drive it for a few weeks. I have an inline pressure gauge and it was showing adequate pressure when running but 0 when not starting. I would have to use an external electric pump to prime the system. I think the check valve in the pump was bad, allowing fuel to drain mostly out of the line all the way back to the tank or the pump just lost its prime. The car would be kinda stally on hot days also (bumped up idle as a crutch). I finally installed a new fuel pump (read up on pulling the hex plug to the pushrod, that's the best way) and now it runs so well! I also suspect a float issue as others have suggested. In my case, the running fuel pressure threw me off until I checked it while someone else was cranking in a no-start condition. I know fuel volume can also be an issue and you have to measure that with a measuring container and a timer. Hope you get it straightened out.