Steering coupler
- Thread starter 69monaco
- Start date
Yep. If you have an intermediate shaft you may be able to remove that to get enough room to remove the coupler and move he steering column up
GJS
Senior Member
As I remember, this should be the same as my 69 Fury. If you pull the coupling forward onto the splines again and pull that rubber boot back, aren't there blocks or another pin that limits travel from within the coupling? I mean, secondary to the roll pin that goes through the coupling and shaft?if you haven't yet, give a look. I'm sure I had this issue.
Be careful replacing these pieces and lining everything up as you fit it back on, as well. I mashed mine back on years back which failed, luckily as I was stopped and preparing to back up to a gas pump... Not a good feeling.
Be careful replacing these pieces and lining everything up as you fit it back on, as well. I mashed mine back on years back which failed, luckily as I was stopped and preparing to back up to a gas pump... Not a good feeling.
saylor
Senior Member
i still dunno why, but this maybe was the single most hardest part to deal with on my whole car, to date.
once i got the bolts out of the column and all, the column kind of pulled backwards/interior some, and it sorta crashed out of place and was then laying in the driver seat.
it took me 3 people to get it back together - me inside the car holding the steering column flush in place, guy with a hammer to bash the connector, and guy to hold the wood block and coupler on the niblet.
you probably already know the splines got to line up, and there is a roll pin in there holding it together,, but i got to say it, just in case...
try not to die -
- saylor
once i got the bolts out of the column and all, the column kind of pulled backwards/interior some, and it sorta crashed out of place and was then laying in the driver seat.
it took me 3 people to get it back together - me inside the car holding the steering column flush in place, guy with a hammer to bash the connector, and guy to hold the wood block and coupler on the niblet.
you probably already know the splines got to line up, and there is a roll pin in there holding it together,, but i got to say it, just in case...
try not to die -
- saylor
The coupler spline has one wide tooth, as does the steering box shaft. Your spline at the steering wheel end also has a wide tooth. This will keep your steering wheel in the right position when your wheels are straight. There is a notch on the coupler that lines up with the wide spline tooth to aid in replacing the coupler back in the same position.
I didn,t see that , it,s like the steering wheel shaft.
If the steering wheel is not in the correct position like mine how do i get em right , i thought i could do that with the coupler ........ so not....
Does that mean the weels are not lined correctly ?
If the steering wheel is not in the correct position like mine how do i get em right , i thought i could do that with the coupler ........ so not....
Does that mean the weels are not lined correctly ?
saylor
Senior Member
all the dangles have to be in line -
there is a notch on your steering arm that lines up with the steering gearbox underneath
there is a notch on the niblet sticking out of the steering gearbox up to the coupling that lines up there also
if the wheels are straight, and if all the notches are lined up, everything should be straight.
mostly.
- saylor
there is a notch on your steering arm that lines up with the steering gearbox underneath
there is a notch on the niblet sticking out of the steering gearbox up to the coupling that lines up there also
if the wheels are straight, and if all the notches are lined up, everything should be straight.
mostly.
- saylor
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