Steering coupling rebuild kits

GJS

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Evenin'

The final part of the puzzle for what has turned into a complete steering rebuild is the coupler itself. I was hesitant to bother with this part as it seems fluid but solid however on closer look at the seal, it's torn and if in going to rip it down anyway, I figure I should just rebuild the unit... I've done everything from the box to the outer tierods, why the hell not? There doesn't seem to be any evidence of metal in the grease nor, as I said, stickiness or sloppiness, just feels like the right thing to do. (See story about 69 Fury coupling coming apart at the gas pump)

Wondering if you guys have had any experience with the rebuild kits available. Ex:
Mopar 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 Barracuda steering column Coupler repair kit NEW | eBay
What do you guys think?
 
Evenin'

The final part of the puzzle for what has turned into a complete steering rebuild is the coupler itself. I was hesitant to bother with this part as it seems fluid but solid however on closer look at the seal, it's torn and if in going to rip it down anyway, I figure I should just rebuild the unit... I've done everything from the box to the outer tierods, why the hell not? There doesn't seem to be any evidence of metal in the grease nor, as I said, stickiness or sloppiness, just feels like the right thing to do. (See story about 69 Fury coupling coming apart at the gas pump)

Wondering if you guys have had any experience with the rebuild kits available. Ex:
Mopar 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 Barracuda steering column Coupler repair kit NEW | eBay
What do you guys think?

Gav, havent used that one, but I have used Ehrenberg's with great success in the GTXer.

OEM Mopar Steering Pot Coupler Repair Kit STOP the SLOP© W/ Instructions Dodge+ | eBay

Now, a very good Mopar friend of mine recommended this in conjunction with any coupler rebuild

Mopar A B E Body 3" 66-73 STAINLESS Steering Column Coupler Cover Clamp / Retainer

I havent used it, but I will once I get around to the GTXer.
 
I think the extra clip/retainer was something Chrysler had dealership mechanics add when they repaired the steering coupler. I saw it used on a couple cars, but no rhyme or reason that I could see.
 
I think the extra clip/retainer was something Chrysler had dealership mechanics add when they repaired the steering coupler. I saw it used on a couple cars, but no rhyme or reason that I could see.
I was just thinking that. Not really sure how the housing could move forward enough once installed on the input shaft to have it matter... the blocks and the pin can only come out the back... unless I'm missing the point entirely.
 
Ive been told the extra clip was so the top seal would not work itself free and pop off and let loose the shims etc. Insurance if you will.
 
Does anyone know if the coupler changed from 74-78 or will this kit work?
 
Pics from his build....

IMG_0810.JPG
IMG_0812.JPG
 
A Mopar-oriented front end mechanic noted one time that it was possible to install the guts to the coupler "backward", which would result in a lot of steering slop. But if installed correctly, all was fine. Haven't been "there", just relaying what he mentioned.

Just a thought,
CBODY67
 
A Mopar-oriented front end mechanic noted one time that it was possible to install the guts to the coupler "backward", which would result in a lot of steering slop. But if installed correctly, all was fine. Haven't been "there", just relaying what he mentioned.

Just a thought,
CBODY67
Had NO clue and would have been very swear-y had I found out the hard way.
Thanks!
 
The cover will never come off is installed correctly, the one on my Barracuda will take a hammer and chisel to pry off.
To install correctly the column must be removed from the car.
1. Bend all the tabs on the cover at about the halfway point 45°
2. Assemble, grease etc.
3. Clamp tight (I was able to get a couple c-clamps on mine)
4. With a drift/punch drive all the tabs in and down over the nubs on the housing.


Alan
 
Actually, just the coupler only can be removed - remove the cotter pins and undo the fasteners at the rubber donut, and drive the roll pin out at the steering box.

Make a small allignment mark with a scribe on the steering box and the coupler ring (where the roll pin is, so you can put it back on at the same place or your steering wheel will be off by a bit), lift the coupler away from the rubber donut so the coupler can slide up. Then with a small pry bar push the couple up and off the spline from the steering box.
 
As far as I know the coupler can only go on one way as there is an indexing spline.
When I said the column needs to be removed I was referring to the column assembly needs to be removed, the steering shaft can remain in the assembly to service the coupler.

The assembly with the couple before servicing
2008-06-15_002.jpg


Coupler showing the amount of compression needed to get a solid crimp and shows tabs being bent and crimped (ignore the one tab getting pinched in under the housing. As I said, this will not come apart.
2008-08-23_001.jpg


Alan
 
Last edited:
Interesting - my 66 has no indexing spline at the box. The wheel does, but the box does not. Perhaps that changed with other years. An allignment mark still helps.
 
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