My new roadkill has lots of steer slop. So have tried the adjustment, and it tightens up before the slop gone. Have talked to some of the rebuilders, and also reviewed service manual. At this point, I am still a bit confused as they want it adjusted while running, which makes no sense to me since we are talking a mechanical adjustment of the two gears. But, my question is for anyone that will have someone gently run the steer wheel back and forth, and see what happens on the input pinion shaft. Mine moves in and out of the gearbox, axially almost a quarter inch, which is think is wrong. I would like to do my best before pulling and having rebuilt. Once I get my wiring to the point it will run, I will try adjustments when running. thanks for thoughts
Steering gear question....need some help on other cars
- Thread starter 66furys
- Start date
Usually running adjustments are for the centering. With that much in and out your bearing preload is likely a little loose. That adjustment I believe needs to be done on the bench. (It has been over 13 years since I rebuilt mine so I may not recall all). There may also be a running preload adjustment, but since I set mine during the re-build that may have not been required in my case.
I totally disassembled mine and installed new bearings and seals following the service manual. My biggest pain points were finding a decent tool to get the collar ring loose, and working with string and a fish scale to set the bearing pre-load by measuring the rotating force.
In the end I was successful. It reacts just like it was designed to do. Typical to early Mopar power steering it is very reactive with little to no slop. It is best steered with two fingers and a light touch. I also made steps in controllability when I set the toe-in to Zero. When I had it set to factory tow in specs which were based on bias ply tires instead of modern radials, it would chase road cracks like a rat following a bait trail. Now at zero toe-in I can relax when driving.
I totally disassembled mine and installed new bearings and seals following the service manual. My biggest pain points were finding a decent tool to get the collar ring loose, and working with string and a fish scale to set the bearing pre-load by measuring the rotating force.
In the end I was successful. It reacts just like it was designed to do. Typical to early Mopar power steering it is very reactive with little to no slop. It is best steered with two fingers and a light touch. I also made steps in controllability when I set the toe-in to Zero. When I had it set to factory tow in specs which were based on bias ply tires instead of modern radials, it would chase road cracks like a rat following a bait trail. Now at zero toe-in I can relax when driving.
YES, you can adjust that "top-side adjustment" (that everybody knows about) 'til the cows stop coming home and you will NOT get all of the "play" out of the steering system, from my own experiencds on my '70 Monaco Brougham. I, too, noticed that movement at the input side of the steering gear, but the techs at the local Chrysler dealership "ran backwards", as if gun-shy, when I mentioned adjusting the gear there. YET, there is special tool and such mentiond in the FSM. In "GM Speak", that is the "adjuster plug" (which we sold many gasket/seal kits for). The Chrysler special tool is really a larger spanner wrench which indexes with the slots in that adjustment sleeve.
Adjust the top-side adjustment carefully so you still have good, caster-induced, returnabiity from turns, with no hesitation to return on its own FIRST. Then do the adjuster plug adjustment to minimize the axial movement of the gear's input shaft with no additional friction. You can also check steering wheel play with the engine running and watching front tire turning movements, with the gear selector in "P".
"Zero toe-in" with radial tires is very important, too, as mentioned. As are the "fingers rather than hands" orientation of holding the steering wheel!! Unlike modern "Euro-feel" steering systems where you NEED hands rather than fingers to turn the steering wheel.
Happy Holidays!
CBODY67
Well written and interesting. I wish I had the shop to try a rebuild myself....I had a nice shop and lift at my last....but limited now. So, do not have the cohones to try it. But, your points are well taken, thanks.
My brain is hurting....but will try to digest all of this. Thanks for great points and comments, appreciate it. Another of my fine points is that my column has been loose at top since purchase....and I left it so I could remove speedo. But, not sure what happens when the column is locked down at top and wants to move at bottom with turn force......aaaargh.
Well, as I replaced my turn signal switch, I found the lower bunch of nonsense loose, and tried to move my steer shaft on the bearing.....hmmm stuck. I was able to fineggle the column clamp back into place, thankfully. But, not sure how the steer shaft can move axially, if constrained by the column.....but will find out one of these days, when things begin to go back together. Interesting.
Shaft bearings usually limit axial movement. You might download (free) the FSM at www.mymopar.com, looking for the steering column area AND also the Chrysler Parts Book at the same website. Should be an exploded view illustration there.
Happy Holidays,
CBODY67
Happy Holidays,
CBODY67
Had not thought about the parts book; good thought. I will look for him, thanks. I am hoping that the gearbox movement will not try to fight the column bearings, but....more to come. Curious also to tighten up the column and see what I see on this movement....but if the gearbox, could be a lot of force.
Similar threads
