sticking clutch - NOT

Verse

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I replaced the A745 3-speed in my 66 Newport. It is all hooked up and all the linkages and clutch adjusted. It behaves like the clutch is not disengaging. How would I break that loose? Start in gear and go? What do I check for?
Thanks again!
 

Davea Lux

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I replaced the A745 3-speed in my 66 Newport. It is all hooked up and all the linkages and clutch adjusted. It behaves like the clutch is not disengaging. How would I break that loose? Start in gear and go? What do I check for?
Thanks again!

Did you replace the clutch, or is it the one that worked in the car before the transmission swap? If it is the same clutch, sometimes a failing transmission will leak oil out the front shaft onto the clutch friction. This will crate a sticky mess on the flywheel and clutch disc. It can have the effect of cementing all the clutch parts together. In that case, you will need to remove the clutch assembly and replace it. Be sure to use Brake-Kleen or a similar solvent to remove any oil from the fly wheel. If the fly wheel shows scoring, remove it and have it turned. If this is a new clutch, be sure the clutch disc is installed properly, some clutch discs are off set to clear the fly wheel bolts. If the disc is in backwards, the center hub will chafe against the fly wheel bolts and the clutch can not dis-engage. I can't remember if the '65 clutch is offset or not, but if you have the old one laying around, check it to see if it is that type.

Dave
 
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Verse

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Yes; I had a spare rebuilt and that is what I installed.
I did not touch the clutch. It was working fine before the trans swap. It was disengaging properly and there was no gear grinding. I replaced the clutch many years ago so it does not have lots of miles on it. Looking from below, the clutch was looking good.
 

commando1

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It's not gonna fix itself by staring at it. Bite the bullet and drop the tranny. How old is the clutch. Tranny is out so good op to start at square one with a new clutch. I would have done it in the first place.
 

68 4spd Fury

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Yes; I had a spare rebuilt and that is what I installed.
I did not touch the clutch. It was working fine before the trans swap. It was disengaging properly and there was no gear grinding. I replaced the clutch many years ago so it does not have lots of miles on it. Looking from below, the clutch was looking good.
I'm just curious, was the other from a 383 too? The 745's that went behind the big blocks had different 1st & 2nd ratios, a closer set that the ones for 318's.
 

PH27L7

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I replaced the A745 3-speed in my 66 Newport. It is all hooked up and all the linkages and clutch adjusted. It behaves like the clutch is not disengaging. How would I break that loose? Start in gear and go? What do I check for?
Thanks again!
You need to explain exactly why you came to the conclusion it is not disengaging in order to properly troubleshoot. You can visually see if it is disengaging with the inspection plate with a helper pushing the clutch. Also the driveshaft should move freely with the wheels off the ground and trans in gear with the clutch depressed. If it worked before it should work now if all things remained the same.
 

70bigblockdodge

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How long has it been sitting. Sometimes they stick if hot and parked for a few months.
Try starting it in 3rd gear with pedal pushed.
 

rd92west

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How long has it been sitting. Sometimes they stick if hot and parked for a few months.
Try starting it in 3rd gear with pedal pushed.
I remove the inspection cover. Use a piece of 2x4 to hold clutch pedal down. Then slide a thin putty knife in between the clutch disc and pressure plate and flywheel.
I have always been little nervous about starting engine in 3rd gear to break things free. Yes it works most of the time but I wonder about the strain on things.
 

70bigblockdodge

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I have always been little nervous about starting engine in 3rd gear to break things free. Yes it works most of the time but I wonder about the strain on things
That starter motor will not generate more shock than side stepping the clutch in first.:poke:
 

Verse

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So I removed the inspection cover and with the clutch depressed I observed the clutch plate to be free. I then went through the linkage adjustment again, it was then in good shape. Started engine and still the grinding trying to get into gear. So what is left then? The input shaft must be turned by the pilot bushing. What I did then is spaced the transmission back from the bell housing with washers. Washers are 0.080" thick. Well, that did the trick. It all works well now!
So why do I have this issue? The 383 in this car is from a 68 Newport automatic. The crank was factory drilled and I installed the brass bushing. It has worked well with the car's original 3 speed for many miles. I dismantled another 66 Newport with a 3 speed, and had that trans rebuilt. It was identical to the first trans. Would the input shaft be a little longer? If we are talking factory tolerances, I was lucky with the first trans.
 

twostick

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Does it grind if you choose 2nd before you put it in 1st and just so we're clear, it will go into gear running?

No synchro on first gear so if the input shaft is turning at all when you pull it into first or reverse, it's going to go crunch.

If I had to guess, and this is assuming the clutch disc isn't stuck to the flywheel, the input shaft is dragging in the pilot bushing a little. If they replaced the input shaft when they rebuilt the trans, it could be as simple as letting the new pilot burnish itself into the old bushing.

I'd adjust most or all of the free play out of the clutch to maximize disengagement air gap between disc and flywheel, and see if that helps before I got into pulling things apart again.

Kevin
 

rd92west

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Sounds like you have sinister forces at work.
The fact that washers spacing the trans rearward makes things work properly tell me that it's the pilot bushing or input shaft. My money is on the pilot bearin, its hard to diagnose on a cellphone.
I doubt there is difference in input shaft length.
 

twostick

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Just reread your last post. The pilot MIGHT be a little longer if they used an aftermarket shaft when they rebuilt it.

The transmission itself might not have been 100% centered in the bellhouseing the first time you installed it but now after you loosened everything up to install the washers, it relaxed into position.

Suggestion:

Remove the washers, release the clutch to tighten up the trans bolts so it centers up nice and see if it shifts cleaner now.

If it's less work to just pull the trans, drive the pilot bushing in a little further if it will go to eliminate that it might be dragging on the shoulder of the pilot (not likely but you never know...) and grind .080" off the end of the input shaft.

Kevin
 
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