Stock "points" dist. to Mopar performance electronic ignition system.

[70NPORT]

I mistakenly posted the beginning of this odyssey over in the "engine, transmission & drive line" forum not realizing there is an "ignition/electrical forum" as well......so..

I'm switching my 70' Newport / 383 motor from a "points" type system to an electronic "pointless" system driven by an ECU. I've got the new distributor, ECU module, and ballast resistor installed and plugged in ready to play.

The new distributor was put in place of the old one in the same exact position, that is the rotor in the new dist. is pointing in the same direction it was in the old one (I marked the position). Also, the vacuum advance can is in the same position the old one was before I pulled it. I have ea. plug wire identified with its corresponding spark plug/ cylinder (#1 cylinder, #2 cylinder, #3cylinder and so on). Chrysler firing order is 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 counter clock wise if I recall correctly.

The ECU is wired to the "hot" side of the new ballast resistor (via blue/yellow wire spliced into the existing ignition feed green wire which then plugs back into left side of ballast) AND to the negative side of an MSD blaster 2 coil (via a black/yellow wire). The ECU is mounted atop the wheel well with sheet metal screws w/thin rubber washers. I'm pretty sure its grounded out. I checked all connection points w/12v test light and all is energized when the key is turned to the "on" (but not "start") position, so it seems like I have electrical connectivity. So I turn the key over, the gear reduction starter spins the 383, but the motor just will not cut over into "run" mode at all.

Any ideas on what could be wrong??? Guesses? Something I have yet to think of? I did a 318 a few years ago and that went like a breeze, what' with the BB motor?

 

[BillGrissom]

Should be the same as your 318, other than the rotor turns the opposite direction. I also recall ccw, but have both SB & BB so always check the FSM. A few diagnostic tools would help a lot (first two ~$3 at Harbor Freight, sometimes free). Use a multi-meter to confirm ~8 V at coil+. An in-line spark tester would be nice, otherwise remove the coil wire from the distributor and arrange the metal tip to sit ~1/8" from a good ground on the engine. To save your battery, you could remove the distributor and spin the shaft by hand. If you get a spark, reconnect and use a timing light to verify when it sparks as you crank. If OK, spray starter fluid down the carb throat to insure not a fuel problem.

Re the electronic ignition, search forabodiesonly. There are many, many posts on how to connect and trouble-shoot. The ignition boxes fail regularly. How do you know yours works?

 

[barry68440]

no start

Make sure 12 volts to ballast when key on - MAKE SURE ECU IS GROUNDED, try running a ground wire from ECU bolt to body, engine or battery - sounds like wired correct assuming the two wires to dist. are correct. Did you splice this connection or did you have a harness that ran from ECU to dist.? Is that a gold box or an orange box? Gold is for race only according to my catalog but don't know if that has anything to do with your condition. My bet is the ground.

 

[7mag]

I put an electronic voltage regulator in min too, as apparntly the older manual ones are a bit erratic for the electronic ignition. Try putting your original points cap and rotor on your new dizzy as my MP ones had issues, mainly just the rotor was too tall and sparking to high in the cap. you could just try the rotor, But I seem to remember when I put in my MP dizzy it didnt go in exactly the same as my old points dizzy came out. I might pay to check that too.

 

[70NPORT]

I put an electronic voltage regulator in min too, as apparntly the older manual ones are a bit erratic for the electronic ignition. Try putting your original points cap and rotor on your new dizzy as my MP ones had issues, mainly just the rotor was too tall and sparking to high in the cap. you could just try the rotor, But I seem to remember when I put in my MP dizzy it didnt go in exactly the same as my old points dizzy came out. I might pay to check that too.

Well thanx everyone, I managed to figure it out. ECU box was not grounded, duh. Something stupid shut down the show! Thanx for the advise!!

 

[polara71]

Make sure 12 volts to ballast when key on - MAKE SURE ECU IS GROUNDED, try running a ground wire from ECU bolt to body, engine or battery -

Barry nailed it !!!:getwell: