Strut Rod Bushing mod

Knebel

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2013
Messages
1,538
Reaction score
581
Location
Beaverton, Oregon
Hi all.

I have decided to sit down and figure out a way to get some better tighter connection and durability at the strut rod mounting point. I am not satisfied with the Moog bushings and am constructing something myself, utilizing 2 of the rear strut bushings. I will be posting here on how I do it and if it is successful.

image-20170306_114254.jpg


image-20170306_113956.jpg


DSC_0234.JPG
 
lose compliance? Could you expand on this? And what kind of Urethane busings do you use? DIY or a direct fit replacement (I couldnt find any)?
 
My strut bushings on the wagon are toast after only 6-7 years....and 10K miles or so. Been thinking of doing something similar...will be watching what you come up with.
 
Well, the strut rod still needs to be able to move up and down. I'm just trying to eliminate the wear and tear where the rod goes through the frame. I'll update once I have figured something out. I had hoped that PST would make some strut rods like they have for the a,b bodies but I guess that's not gonna happen...
 
Subscribed... I need to deal with strut rods on my 68SF - one is bent from towing in the past...?... and I have modified the bushings on my Valiant in a way similar to what you are doing.
 
You can't use the B Body kit from energy suspensions? Mine for my Charget came with a spacer to prevent over tightening bit it would not fit over my strut rod. I left it out and just tightened to visual correct compression and put a cotter pin in to prevent the nut from backing all the way off you could probably get a thin jam nut if backing off becomes a problem. They hold the control arm much more stiffly you will notice the hit on sharp bumps or holes. Ones for a B body are pretty generic looking might be worth a try and you can get them at Advance/Auto Zone so you can return if not able to make them work.
 
You can't use the B Body kit from energy suspensions. Mine came with a spacer to prevent over tightening bit it would not fit over my strut rod. I left it out and just tightened to visual correct compression. They hold the control arm much more stiffly you will notice the hit on sharp bumps or holes. Ones for a B body are pretty generic looking might be worth a try and you can get them at Advance/Auto Zone so you can return if not able to make them work.


That's interesting. I'm planning on modifying a bushing which will sit in the frame hole and is held by two original bushings which normally go towards the back. I found some for 2 bucks each but will need to modify. I'll take picks when I have them.
 
The energy suspension urethane are just rubber biscuits essentially, no shoulder to go through stub frame or k frame but they are stiff. I have not driven my Charger yet but rode in a friend's car with them.
 
I got the poly bushings in the mail today and started messing around a bit. They were for control arms and i have cut off the lip and made them shorter, all just with a carpet cutter knife. Im almost done with one bushing...

Fits very snug into the rubber and should be snug in the frame too. But you see what i am doing, prettymuch reinforcing the area that gets wedged and noodled around between the strutrod and the frame hole.

DSC_0248.JPG


DSC_0250.JPG


DSC_0251.JPG
 
My rear bushings were still good so I just installed my DIY Job on the Fury just from the front. When just cutting the lip off the poly bushings (vertical through the bushing) it appears to be just right. They fit snug but not tight over the sleeve and into the framehole.I took it for a spin and wow... It feels way more solid and my cluncking sound seems to be gone too.

I think it worked, get a set of moog bushings, then buy "prothane 60349" poly bushing, cut off the edge and put them in the recess from the normally back side moog bushing. The assembly then goes on the front of the frame, push it in and then use the strut nut to pull it in completely til the rubber seats on the frame. Now im off to finding poly leaf spring shackles bushings! I hope this idea helps anyone whos rubber bushings wear out quick.

DSC_0253.JPG
 
Moog still sells the improved design strut rod bushings. That is what I installed in my car when I rebuilt the front suspension. Just can't remember the part #.
 
I have been looking at you pics for some time now trying to figure out exactly what you did.....sorry but I found your description a tad confusing. ;) Finally figured out what you did though....I like it! Will be ordering a set of new strut rod bushings, and the prothane bushings to get the wagon back to driving quietly again.
 
Yeah, you basically just use the rear bushing and mod the poly bushing as a harder spacer to go through the frame and in the cutout of the bushing.
 
A little update on this. I dont think its gonna work, maybe because the bushings are too tight of a fit in the frame... I noticed some wonky feel in the steering and also had some clunck sound again. Upon inspection, One Nut on the strutrod was only held in place by the Pin...that could have ended badly! The Poly bushing had wedged itself halfway out and deeper into the rubber bushing. Im gonna make them smaller a bit so that they have more room to "slide" in the frame but i think going to something cone shaped might be better.

EDIT: Maybe it would be better if the whole front bushing would be made out of Polyurethane and the rear retains the Rubber. If there is any interest, I probably would have someone who could make a couple of those (made in germany)
 
Last edited:
A little update on this. I dont think its gonna work, maybe because the bushings are too tight of a fit in the frame... I noticed some wonky feel in the steering and also had some clunck sound again. Upon inspection, One Nut on the strutrod was only held in place by the Pin...that could have ended badly! The Poly bushing had wedged itself halfway out and deeper into the rubber bushing. Im gonna make them smaller a bit so that they have more room to "slide" in the frame but i think going to something cone shaped might be better.

EDIT: Maybe it would be better if the whole front bushing would be made out of Polyurethane and the rear retains the Rubber. If there is any interest, I probably would have someone who could make a couple of those (made in germany)

Knebel, the way to go is with Rareparts RP15450 Strut Rod Bushing. Not only do they come with the bushings, but also the large outer retainer washers and most importantly, metal sleeves (which are an upgrade to the OEM sleeve). This is what I used when I rebuilt my suspension.

2015-11-12 18.16.38.jpg


2015-11-12 18.19.54.jpg


RP strut bushing3.jpg


RP strut bushing2.jpg


RP SB together.jpg
 
Last edited:
The energy suspension urethane are just rubber biscuits essentially, no shoulder to go through stub frame or k frame but they are stiff. I have not driven my Charger yet but rode in a friend's car with them.


Resurrecting this thread.....

Have you used the B-body bushings on a C-body? Will they fit, or at least be close to fitting?

Polyurethane bushings can be very easily shaped using belt sander, so if the B-body bushings are larger for some reason, sizing them down will not be a problem. I can also enlarge the center hole and put in a bigger sleeve if I have to in order to make them fit on the C-body strut rods.

Mine are looking pretty dry-rotted and spent, and I'd like to replace them with poly, if possible.

How do the strut rods come out of there, anyway? Is it straightforward?
 
Last edited:
Resurrecting this thread.....

Have you used the B-body bushings on a C-body? Will they fit, or at least be close to fitting?

Polyurethane bushings can be very easily shaped using belt sander, so if the B-body bushings are larger for some reason, sizing them down will not be a problem. I can also enlarge the center hole and put in a bigger sleeve if I have to in order to make them fit on the C-body strut rods.

Mine are looking pretty dry-rotted and spent, and I'd like to replace them with poly, if possible.

How do the strut rods come out of there, anyway? Is it straightforward?
The energy suspension stuff is pretty generic. I think they can be modified as needed. They are not as thick as stock rubber ones, but do not crush as much either.
 
Back
Top