For Sale Stub frame

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Mopar Papa

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I have a stub frame ( isolated) out of a 70 Monaco for sale….perfect condition…it’s been sandblasted a couple coats of epoxy primer applies….will ship $350

5D75E318-D447-4FF2-B83F-9224294735D7.jpeg
 
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Does it fit other years 1971, 1972, 1973?
Does it fit Plymouth or Chrysler?

Yes, it's a direct fit into any '71-'73 Chrysler and 1973 Plymouth.

To use it in a 1971-72 Plymouth, one will need a set of the longer torsion bars.

Most or all 1973 cars had an extra brace welded near where the front bumper mounts, but that's not a critical item.

Jeff
 
i could be wrong,

You are wrong. :p

Wheel base difference is behind front seat. Rear floor section is different length depending on wheelbase. Imperial is the only one that has extra wheelbase in the stub frame.

Other than Imperial, the major compatibility concern is whether it's an isolated or non-isolated stub.

Other significant differences would be 1965 only motor mounts, slant 6 motor mounts, and the fact that Plymouths had shorter torsion bars from '65 to '72

Minor differences would be the extra brackets for 1973 along with various mounting holes that changed over the years.

Jeff
 
Yes, it's a direct fit into any '71-'73 Chrysler and 1973 Plymouth.

To use it in a 1971-72 Plymouth, one will need a set of the longer torsion bars.

Most or all 1973 cars had an extra brace welded near where the front bumper mounts, but that's not a critical item.

Jeff
Time for my lesson of the day. Are the dodge and plymouth subframe the same length overall? If not, how does the 1970 Dodge fit the 1971 Plymouth? If so, how are the torsion bars longer? thanks, Ben
 
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Time for my lesson of the day. Are the dodge and plymouth subframe the same length overall? If not, how does the does the 1970 Dodge fit the 1971 Plymouth? If so, how are the torsion bars longer? thanks, Ben

Actually, it's super simple:

The bars extend past the crossmember on the Chrysler and Dodge.
dodge stub frame.JPG


The bars are flush with the crossmember on Plymouths.
plymouth stub frame.jpg


The torsion bar sockets are the only difference between the frames.


Another big correction:
I have just discovered that I am mistaken about Plymouth switching to the longer bars in 1973. I had based this theory on info from one of my collision books. It listed the same part numbers for stub frames and torsion bars for Chrysler, Dodge, and Plymouth for 1973. I looked under one of my '73 Plymouths and it has the short bars. I'm going to say the book has a misprint. In fact, I just found this photo of another '73 Plymouth, and it also has the short bars.
IMG_4926.JPG


Jeff
 
Actually, it's super simple:

The bars extend past the crossmember on the Chrysler and Dodge.
View attachment 502357

The bars are flush with the crossmember on Plymouths.
View attachment 502362

The torsion bar sockets are the only difference between the frames.

Jeff
Great information, Jeff. As usual, you are super knowledgeable. Very helpful info when I start on my 1971 Fury. It all depends on how correct I want to be and what's available.
i could be wrong, but its my understanding that it would only work in 69-73 non wagon c body dodges because the plymouth wheelbase is 120, the dodge is 122, chrysler is 124 and imperial is 127...... and that the difference in length is in the stub frame
2 MORE QUESTIONS:
So are we in agreement that the station wagon front subframes are same dimensions as sedan and coupe 1971-1973, with the exception of the torsion bars/rear mounts?
Also in a junkyard where the engine is still in the car, is the best way to remove the subframe, a cinderblock under the engine oil pan?
Thanks again, Ben
 
These are hard to find... with the longer rails and rear isolation mounts. I looked for quite a while to find one. They were introduced in 69 or 70, I can't recall, and were only used on a few models of C-bodies at first...namely on hardtops too. That's a dam good deal at $350. I paid $600 which was good too, but it also had all the disk brakes on it from a '71.
 
The amount of knowledge on this forum never ceases to amaze me! I have probably read 1000's of posts and threads over the past 2 years and it always blows me away. So, I want to add a dumb question here. What does "isolated" mean with respect to a stub frame? C Shaft
 
The amount of knowledge on this forum never ceases to amaze me! I have probably read 1000's of posts and threads over the past 2 years and it always blows me away. So, I want to add a dumb question here. What does "isolated" mean with respect to a stub frame? C Shaft
Rubber bushings in between body and subframe
 
2 MORE QUESTIONS:
So are we in agreement that the station wagon front subframes are same dimensions as sedan and coupe 1971-1973, with the exception of the torsion bars/rear mounts?
Also in a junkyard where the engine is still in the car, is the best way to remove the subframe, a cinderblock under the engine oil pan?
Thanks again, Ben

Yes, wagon stub frames are interchangeable with the other body styles.

I would pull the subframe out with the engine and trans in place, then remove the engine/trans after it's clear of the car.

You just need a way to lift the front of the car pretty high, unless you pull out the rad support.

Jeff
 
Yes, wagon stub frames are interchangeable with the other body styles.

I would pull the subframe out with the engine and trans in place, then remove the engine/trans after it's clear of the car.

You just need a way to lift the front of the car pretty high, unless you pull out the rad support.

Jeff
Most of our old cars are in old junkyards, that don't have rolling A-frames for pulling an engine trans and subframe out from under the front of the car. Maybe I could make use of a nearby tree and a Masdam Power Pull Cable & Hook. I'd still need a way to lift the car. Thanks, though. If I can find a nice one in a Pick-a-Part with all the A-frame equipment and cars up on wheel rims, that would be super nice.
 
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