Stuck window woes

cuda hunter

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Location
Colorado
1973 Imperial 4 door.
Passengers window is stuck 2/3's down.

My first plan is to remove the zip tie around the green and purple wires that go to the motor. I am hoping to hook a 12V battery up to the motor to try to get it to go to the up position. Will this work?
If not, what would be my first steps to getting the window back to the rolled up position?
Do I remove the entire motor? Just the cover over the gear for the window?
Pretty tight in there.
I have read several threads but have not found the answer to my problem.
So far the best reference's I have found are Big John's threads.

3 windows don't work, drivers works great. Have to tackle the window that is stuck down first. Thanks for any suggestions.
 
Yes you can use battery voltage to bypass everything before the motor. Neg lead to one terminal and pos to the other for one direction and switch leads for the opposite.
 
Unfortunately, this approach did not work.

Would my next step be to remove the entire motor?
At that point the window will fall to the bottom.
Can part of the window motor be removed to then pull the window up to the closed position and then reinstall the "cover" that is on the motor?
Or is there another way?
 
Is there not a large, flat "clock-spring" on the regulator, as on the manual regulators? Is there a "gauge hole" in the regulator pieces that might be used to keep the window where it is, or similar? Might need a length of wood to hold things up while the motor is removed?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Unfortunately, this approach did not work.

Would my next step be to remove the entire motor?
At that point the window will fall to the bottom.
Can part of the window motor be removed to then pull the window up to the closed position and then reinstall the "cover" that is on the motor?
Or is there another way?
The window won't fall.

I know you checked with 12 volts to the motor, but if 3 motors aren't working and the drivers window does, that points to the driver gang switch as being a possible problem.

When you connected 12 volts to the motor, it was negative on one wire, positive on the other wire. Correct? Some guys will try to connect to one wire and ground the case. Just making sure...
 
Yes, I took apart the junction connector at the motor and touched direct negative and positive wires to each spade. I tried switched wires and tried again on opposite spades. I could hear a click in the motor but that was it.
The rear passengers side does go down about half an inch or so and has to be lifted by hand to get it to go back up.
The rear drivers does nothing.

Would an inoperable drivers gang switch make the other doors switch's operable? Or would they possibly still work even if the main drivers switch is out?
 
Would an inoperable drivers gang switch make the other doors switch's operable? Or would they possibly still work even if the main drivers switch is out?
They won't work with the gang switch out and yes, an inoperable one can affect the other windows.

I'm finding that the big problem (besides the drive) with the motors is the commutator and brushes are gummed up and dirty.
 
Didn't get it out today. I'm to the point of removing the motor though.
Do I have to remove the brackets? Or are there two larger bolts?
What am I missing with the removal of the motor?

I actually found another motor in the trunk.
 
Didn't get it out today. I'm to the point of removing the motor though.
Do I have to remove the brackets? Or are there two larger bolts?
What am I missing with the removal of the motor?

I actually found another motor in the trunk.
The easiest way is drill a couple holes to get to the motor bolts. That way you don't touch the regulator. Saves a ton of time and you don't have to play with the adjustment. 3/4" hole saw is the weapon of choice.

UGRpMer.jpg
 
Great! That's what I will do.
Is it 3 bolts that hold the motor on or 4 bolts?
Regardless I will get it out of there but thought I would ask.
 
Great! That's what I will do.
Is it 3 bolts that hold the motor on or 4 bolts?
Regardless I will get it out of there but thought I would ask.
3 bolts with another bolt in a bracket on the bottom of the motor that bolts to the panel

EXxTb6a.jpg
 
I personally prefer removing the regulator and motor out from the door as 1 piece.
The regulator is under a LOT of tension from the spring.
So I clamp it down and replace the motor.
I get to keep all 8 fingers and 2 thumbs.

20240728_155252.jpg
 
1" cut off wheels and a Dremel tool work to make the access holes as well.

While I do agree that the springs should be treated with caution, my experience is that with the regulator and the glass in place in the car, things don't move much. The spring wants to push up, gravity wants to pull the glass down, and the general friction of the mechanism tends to dampen any movement.

Out of the car is a different story, before removing the motor from the regulator, clamp it as many ways as you can see and then look for some more. That will go off like a bear trap.
 
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