1. Bigasawhale2

    Bigasawhale2 New Member

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    I used many of the threads on this site, as inspiration for my version of sub frame connectors.


    My Goal(s)
    Stiffen the car, used the connectors to lift the car if needed
    Use and Maintain the factory bolt location in the sub frame
    Once all is proven to work well - a couple of strategic welds, in the back frame rails

    Share, to the C Body community ScreenHunter_01 May. 11 21.00.jpg ScreenHunter_09 May. 11 21.03.jpg ScreenHunter_10 May. 11 21.05.jpg

    ScreenHunter_01 May. 11 21.00.jpg

    ScreenHunter_09 May. 11 21.03.jpg

    ScreenHunter_10 May. 11 21.05.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2019
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  2. Fratzog

    Fratzog Old Man with a Hat

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    I don't plan on doing another restoration but this looks like it will be of use to someone who is. Thanks for sharing.
     
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  3. bajajoaquin

    bajajoaquin Senior Member

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    Looks like you took some time to do a thorough job.

    I’ve thought about these for my Imperial but wasn’t sure how the rubber mount for the stub would affect it.
     
  4. Xenon

    Xenon Senior Member

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    This needs a through explanation...
    Welding to the front stub frame which is not solidly mounted to the car.....
    Welding to the rear frame rails which are very solid to the car.......

    Something has to give,,, and not in a happy way.....
     
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  5. FURYGT

    FURYGT Senior Member

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    I just don't understand the need for sub-frame connectors given how strong the uni-body is on C Body's.
     
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  6. mr. fix it

    mr. fix it Old Man with a Hat

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    the convertibles can always benefit from something like this.
     
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  7. rags

    rags Well-Known Member

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    agree. did basically the same thing on my newport roadster. no cowl shake and i can open the its doors while it's on a lift.
     
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  8. Badvert65

    Badvert65 Active Member

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    I did something very similar on my 65 Fury convertible. I cam straight off the rear frame rail forward. I bolted mine to the front sub frame, in case I ever had the need to remove it. I drag raced my Fury. After a day of racing I could put my thumb in the gap at the rear of the door/body. After putting the connectors in, I never had that problem. It stiffened things right up. This was about 30 years ago and I haven't had any problems with flex since then.
     
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  9. mr. fix it

    mr. fix it Old Man with a Hat

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    Can you post a picture of what it looks like?
     
  10. Badvert65

    Badvert65 Active Member

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    I will try to get pics of it sometime this week. It is basically a 2x3 square tube going from the frame rail forward. It isn't attached to the floor anywhere. Smaller tubing would likely work, I just used what I had back then.
     
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  11. rags

    rags Well-Known Member

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    mine. 2x4 rectangular heavy wall. holes are for seat bolt access. bottom of subframe was rotted off so these extend in. the sides and bottom of the sub repaired around the connectors with 2x2 angle. frame 001.JPG frame 003.JPG excuse the light. rears have internal lug plate so springs are bolted through from outside. like Badvert65 done early '90's with material on hand but happened fit very nicely. apologies to bigasawhale2 for partially hijacking your thread. gotta say your connectors are much nicer than mine and very well presented.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2019
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  12. 65sporty

    65sporty Old Man with a Hat

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    The earlier C's, the stub frame was bolted solid the the uni body, not until the later torsion ride that they had cushion mounts.
     
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  13. mr. fix it

    mr. fix it Old Man with a Hat

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    directly bolted until 1969 I believe
     
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  14. Badvert65

    Badvert65 Active Member

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    I know my 65 is directly bolted. My connectors look just like the ones in Rags post except on the sub frame end, I welded a flat plate to form a "T" and bolted the "T" to the sub frame.
     
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  15. rags

    rags Well-Known Member

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    my car was severely rotted at each end so i had nothing to lose. bolted the springs and welded the torque boxes first leaving the fronts hanging an inch below the sub. when done at the rear i jacked the fronts up into the sub an welded them so that that body was preloaded upward at the center like a flat bed trailer.
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2019
  16. James Richardson

    James Richardson Member

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    Great illustrations and ideas shown here. Definitely adding to my Newport.
    The other idea is the torque boxes the convs and hemi powered cars had at rear spring mount. Does anyone have a pic of those?
     
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  17. Badvert65

    Badvert65 Active Member

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    You know, my 65 convertible does not have the torque boxes. I have looked at three other 65 Fury convertibles and none of them had them either. It is something I have wanted to add.
     
  18. mr. fix it

    mr. fix it Old Man with a Hat

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    If you have some fabbing skills they can be made.

    I did that a few years back now.
    I was fortunate to have the rear frame rails out of the car at the time which admittedly made this much easier.

    Use a few cereal boxes to mock up templates then cut your materials expecting to scrap the first few until you get the angles correct.

    They turned out pretty nice & strong as all get out having used a bit heavier gauge than the OE boxes
    20151001_200435.jpg 20151001_200442.jpg 20151001_200454.jpg 20151001_200510.jpg 20151001_200519.jpg 20151003_155528.jpg 20151003_155535.jpg 20151003_155542.jpg IMG_0797.JPG
     
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  19. James Richardson

    James Richardson Member

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    Perfect.....and nicely done.. Thank you muchly.
     
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  20. Gary Grand

    Gary Grand New Member

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    This came up just at the right time!
    I have been thinking the connectors for my -67 Imperial due the change from ht to convertible. The body would be much too "elastic" without any added support under the floor.
    Now i just need to copy your solution.:thankyou:

    I don´t know if Chrysler has made any changes on body between the ht´s and convertibles? If not, these should be added to any convertible..