Subframe preparedness

Walter Joy

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Been a while since I have worked on the car, and with Carlisle looming closer, it seemed like a good time to start preparing my rust free subframe to be put in Delmae. However, I do have some questions/concerns:

Firstly, where can I buy Torsion-Quiet specific bushings? Looking at the frame right now (from a 1971 Newport going into a 1971 Polara), there are two bushings for the “sway bar hinge” and both are cracked/split.
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Secondly, where do I buy these bushings for the shock absorber? I bought two lots worth of NOS Moog parts off Facebook a few months back for a steal and do not know if they contain those bushings.
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Finally, is there anything else I should be weary of? First time using POR-15, and I’m using a wire wheel to hit most of the big stuff.
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CBODY67

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TorsionQuiet is model-year-specific. Not something that is "added on" as an upgrade.

The upper shock bushings/grommets illustration might be found in the Chry parts book or in other shock abs illustrations at rockauto.com, and such. They were pretty universal for years.

On the rear axle, the main thing is the rubber isolation of the rear leaf springs' mounting to the axle housing. Still, model year specific.

Have fun!
CBODY67
 

Samplingman

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First power wash the crap out of it, literally. There are areas that have collected dirt that you can’t see until you run high pressure water through it. Let it dry on end then wire wheel, grind and clean the surface best you can. I used a coat of POR-15 (or use the chassis coating of your choice) and then before it dried to the touch (about an hour) I sprayed semi-gloss rattle can black. Use rags tied to the end of a rod to get as much POR on the inside as you can. The resulting finish for me was super tough and still looks great after many years. As for bushings, there are no re-pros, but some have been very creative in making replacements, keep searching for ideas.

Before:

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After:

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Big_John

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Shock bushing will come with a new pair of shocks. I don't think I've seen it readily available separately, but you might be able to find some NOS (look up the part number) kicking around somewhere... But, rubber isn't like fine wine and a 50 year old set that has been sitting in a warehouse isn't going to be very good.

Regarding POR-15, the rougher the surface the better. It doesn't like smooth or painted surfaces and will peal. I like POR-15, but consider using some Ospho and brushing that on and covering with Rustoleum primer and black paint. You might be happier with the results. You also might be even happier to send it out for sandblasting and prime/paint it when done. That will remove all the crap so the paint will stick. That's just food for thought. If you do use the POR-15, wear gloves... The stuff does not come off your hands for days. AMHIK. @Samplingman 's advice of painting while it's still a little tacky is sound. Otherwise, getting regular paint to stick might be hard to do.
 

CBODY67

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When I was looking around in the Eastwood website a few days ago, seems like they had an "inside the frame rail" rust encapulator product which spryed on? First time I'd seen anything of that nature, designed to be applied in those areas.

Concur on "shelf aging". Related to "dry rot"?

CBODY67
 

Walter Joy

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When I was looking around in the Eastwood website a few days ago, seems like they had an "inside the frame rail" rust encapulator product which spryed on? First time I'd seen anything of that nature, designed to be applied in those areas.

Concur on "shelf aging". Related to "dry rot"?

CBODY67
I checked my stash of NOS Moog parts I bought (almost everything I need and including an extra set of ball joints which are reserved for Wyatt). I did find new shock tower bushings, but the ones for the sway bar hinge weren’t provided in K7061. Here are what they look like when I got them out.
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RGORHAM29

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Shock bushing will come with a new pair of shocks. I don't think I've seen it readily available separately, but you might be able to find some NOS (look up the part number) kicking around somewhere... But, rubber isn't like fine wine and a 50 year old set that has been sitting in a warehouse isn't going to be very good.

Regarding POR-15, the rougher the surface the better. It doesn't like smooth or painted surfaces and will peal. I like POR-15, but consider using some Ospho and brushing that on and covering with Rustoleum primer and black paint. You might be happier with the results. You also might be even happier to send it out for sandblasting and prime/paint it when done. That will remove all the crap so the paint will stick. That's just food for thought. If you do use the POR-15, wear gloves... The stuff does not come off your hands for days. AMHIK. @Samplingman 's advice of painting while it's still a little tacky is sound. Otherwise, getting regular paint to stick might be hard to do.

I did the same as you....wire brushed the heck out of it and it cleaned up very well. I also agree on paint comments. Wear long sleeves, jeans and gloves. Whether POR 15, Eastwood Platinum or Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black..... it’s a pain to get it off your skin. I have found the hard way that scrubbing with baby oil and a Brillo sponge pad soon after will do the trick. Emphasis on scrubbing. LOL. But your frame will look great when finished!!
 

ALRUI

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I did the same as you....wire brushed the heck out of it and it cleaned up very well. I also agree on paint comments. Wear long sleeves, jeans and gloves. Whether POR 15, Eastwood Platinum or Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black..... it’s a pain to get it off your skin. I have found the hard way that scrubbing with baby oil and a Brillo sponge pad soon after will do the trick. Emphasis on scrubbing. LOL. But your frame will look great when finished!!
We arent getting any younger, wear some nitrile gloves!
 

Walter Joy

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After two coats, this was my end result. It looks infinitely better than it did, but I did lay it on too thick so it’s more glossy than I had hoped. But I’m happy it stuck, and surprisingly got minimal paint on me (yes I wore gloves).
 

WissaMan

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Eastwood sells a frame coating spray can that comes with a 2-ft hose w/ a 360-degree "fan" nozzle attached to the end. I used when I did some repair to the rear uni-"frame" on our old Honda Odyssey and it went on real nice. I can't comment on how durable it'll be (yet) but it seemed every bit as tough, or moreso, than the other things I've used such as POR-15 and Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator platinum. The one tip I'd give is to zip tie the hose to a length of thick solid copper wire to make it easier to maneuver the nozzle when you're spraying it inside the frame.
 

ALRUI

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Eastwood sells a frame coating spray can that comes with a 2-ft hose w/ a 360-degree "fan" nozzle attached to the end.

I got a couple of the SEM nozzles from Oreilly for my son to spray some Rustoleum Rust Converter inside his Jeep frame where he just repaired some rusted out areas. They work well & I like your tip about attaching some wire to it to be able to do a better job guiding it!

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...em-products-rust-preventer-wand/71120/5301561
 

Walter Joy

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I got a couple of the SEM nozzles from Oreilly for my son to spray some Rustoleum Rust Converter inside his Jeep frame where he just repaired some rusted out areas. They work well & I like your tip about attaching some wire to it to be able to do a better job guiding it!

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...em-products-rust-preventer-wand/71120/5301561
Thanks both! I got a few spots with the POR-15 that I could reach. I may go back in with the Eastwood once the weather warms up again (garage is unheated)
 

bluefury361

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Just for future reference, Rustoleum offers a "farm implement" coating/paint that in my opinion is superior to por 15. It is self etching and does not require a primer, much easier and safer to use and the flat dries to a extremely impact resistant OEM chasses finish. Cheaper to. available in spray, quart and gallon. Most hardware stores will carry it.
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ALRUI

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Just for future reference, Rustoleum offers a "farm implement" coating/paint that in my opinion is superior to por 15. It is self etching and does not require a primer, much easier and safer to use and the flat dries to a extremely impact resistant OEM chasses finish. Cheaper to. available in spray, quart and gallon. Most hardware stores will carry it.
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Nice! By hardware stores you mean Ace, etc. I don't consider Home Depot & especially Lowes to be a true "hardware store" IMNSHO
 

Walter Joy

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Nice! By hardware stores you mean Ace, etc. I don't consider Home Depot & especially Lowes to be a true "hardware store" IMNSHO
After a complete fustercluck with Home Depot over a shed I bought for my storage of C body parts, I only recognize Lowes and Ace (since Ace is closest).
 

Gerald Morris

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After a complete fustercluck with Home Depot over a shed I bought for my storage of C body parts, I only recognize Lowes and Ace (since Ace is closest).

My total sympathy. Home Depot's customer DIS-service has decayed to epochal incompetence. I strongly urge Decent Folk to stick with
Ace and Lowes. Those stores carry a higher percentage of U.S. made tools too.
 

ALRUI

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My total sympathy. Home Depot's customer DIS-service has decayed to epochal incompetence. I strongly urge Decent Folk to stick with
Ace and Lowes. Those stores carry a higher percentage of U.S. made tools too.

I guess it depends on your local market. As a stockholder in HD & Lowes I abhor my local Lowes & love the HD other than I have to drive 30 miles to the closest one. My Lowes has the worst employees of any store in the area and special orders are purely confusing for them.
 

bluefury361

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I guess it depends on your local market. As a stockholder in HD & Lowes I abhor my local Lowes & love the HD other than I have to drive 30 miles to the closest one. My Lowes has the worst employees of any store in the area and special orders are purely confusing for them.

I agree. One HD or Lowes should not be compared to another. I preferred HD where I used to live because it was so much better organized and supplied. Where i'm at now is the opposite. My Lowes card makes my veterans discount automatic.
 

Walter Joy

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I agree. One HD or Lowes should not be compared to another. I preferred HD where I used to live because it was so much better organized and supplied. Where i'm at now is the opposite. My Lowes card makes my veterans discount automatic.
Totally agree on that part. My closest Home Depot is an hour away, whereas Lowe’s is 15 minutes and Ace is 5
 
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