This socket no longer works because it has lost ground because of corrosion. There is supposed to be a ground connection between the socket and the larger tail light housing. It works just fine when I run a jumper from a ground to the outside of the socket or the lip of the socket in the top photo. I would like to remove the socket and clean it up or replace it, but it appears to have been pressed in through the back of the housing and crimped into place on the front side. The arrow in the top photo points to the crimped over section. When I turn the back of the socket with pliers, the part shown in the top photo rotates too. Are these sockets really not removable, or is there a trick to getting them out? For this one, I might be able to solder a ground wire to the back of the socket, but I have two others that don't work for other reasons and need to be removed and repaired or replaced. Thx.
tail light repair?
- Thread starter Jeff
- Start date
I thought I'd seen somewhere new sockets for these but can't think where it was now......
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
I like the ground wire idea, can the socket be soldered to the housing? I don't know what the housing is made of.
Just something to try off the top of my head....
If you can turn the socket in the housing, maybe you could clean it up and tighten the crimp to the housing. Some electrical contact cleaner sprayed in or maybe some De-Oxit applied liberally around the socket and then a few taps with a hammer and punch to tighten it up.
If you can turn the socket in the housing, maybe you could clean it up and tighten the crimp to the housing. Some electrical contact cleaner sprayed in or maybe some De-Oxit applied liberally around the socket and then a few taps with a hammer and punch to tighten it up.
As this is a single wire appliance, the housing the socket fits into is some type of conductive material. Most likely pot-metal. I would suggest taking some light sandpaper to the socket housing to make a small area "bright" Then apply some acid based soldering paste to the bright area with a Q tip. You should be able to solder a small wire to the bright area using an electric soldering iron. Run the other end of the wire to one of the center bezel screws on the bumper. These sockets are not designed to be replaced.
Most likely, if you try to remove them the oxidized pot metal will break.
Dave
As a last resort if your sockets are beyond repair, you can take a vice grips and crush the back part of the socket until it will fit out the front of the tail light or back up light assembly. Go to your local auto parts and buy the appropriate universal single or two wire socket assembly. Spend a quite afternoon using a mill bastard file or powered tool to increase the size of the socket hole in the taillight/backup light assembly until the new socket will fit, using a light touch. Once you have a good fit, seal the backside of the assembly with RTV or similar sealant to prevent water intrusion and re-install the assembly and bumper.
Dave
Dave
If you want to go the route of attaching a ground wire, soldering to the housing is going to be difficult at best. Soldering to the socket (brass plated steel) should be fairly easy as long as you prep the area well. DO NOT USE ACID FLUX. Acid flux is used in solder joints that are strictly mechanical (like gutters) and never to be used in anything electrical. The flux will always wick up the wire and it will eventually corrode and fail. Use a good rosin flux core solder. The soldering flux sold for plumbing works well for a situation like this.
Once the wire is soldered to the socket, crimp a good terminal to the end and run it to the mounting nut.
Once the wire is soldered to the socket, crimp a good terminal to the end and run it to the mounting nut.
67Monaco
Go Woke, Go Broke.
Why not just solder the socket to the housing? He'd only need a couple of solder points for each socket. Silver solder should work.
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
There was a thread showing someone removing the old socket with a cutoff wheel and replacing it with a modern type screw in socket. I have some junk housings that I began to pry the sockets out of with the intention of cleaning them up and re-installing. I gave up after the first one. it was a lot of effort and the sockets are not serviceable after they are removed (read: mangled beyond repair!). Still looking for decent replacements.
Thanks for all these helpful replies. They confirm that I am not missing an easy way to remove the sockets. I'll trying the soldering approach for the one pictured. For the others, which are both on the other housing, I will look for a complete replacement assembly or try the remove and replace approach suggested by Dave and Samplingman.
The Captain
Active Member
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Drill a small hole thru the housing and socket and install a small screw.
The Captain
Active Member
- Joined
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In your first pic you show a arrow pointing to where you need to drill the hole. All you need to do is make contact between the housing and socket with the screw.
Wollfen
Old Man with a Hat
I checked my spare taillight housings and they have rusty sockets too. Sorry Jeff.
A thought... Clean up the housings in vinegar and apply something like this at the gap.
https://www.amazon.com/Sciplus-Elec...8-4&keywords=electrically+conductive+adhesive
https://www.amazon.com/Sciplus-Elec...8-4&keywords=electrically+conductive+adhesive
Thanks for checking.
Yes, it was written by Leaburn (Cbarge) a few years ago over on the Cbodydrydock. I did a search, but couldn't find it. Maybe if Leaburn is on the side he will remember the post and can search it out.
Edit
Found it
Last edited:
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
Nice, thank you!
That looks like the way to go, at least for the other two sockets that are completely nonfunctional. Thanks to all who weighed in.
I tried soldering to the socket last night with no luck. The solder wouldn't adhere. I cleaned it well and scratched it to shiny metal with sand paper first. I used rosin flux solder. Does the socket need to get hot for it to work? My soldering iron is pretty wimpy. I used the tip to heat the wire/socket but maybe there is too much of a sink for it to heat up properly.
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