Tapered Axles

[mikedrini]

Hey Guys,

I am redoing the rear drums on my 64 New Yorker and am at a crossroads about what to do. Ideally, I'd like to get rid of these tapered axles so I can service them easier. I don't have a problem with the drums, but I DO have a problem with the Drum/Hub assembly as one unit.

My stock Drum/Hub assembly is cracked so I have to replace it. I would like to do away with the tapered axles and install newer flange axles so I could slide on some drums without the hub attached (hope that makes sense).

Anyone have any suggestions? Would any later Mopar axles fit? I think mine are the 30 spline/31.5 inch tapered axles. I already converted the front to discs, just want to clean up the rear drums is all. Is there a way to solve this without having to remove the entire rear end (pumpkin, gear, etc.)?

Thanks,

Mike

 

[65sporty]

I am sure one of the other guy's will chime in, but if you can't find a stock axle that will fit, I am sure that the aftermarket will have options for you. I am not a fan of the tapered axles. We have a large puller at work to remove the flange on those axles, they used to be very common.

 

[barnfind]

Not sure what your 64 NYer measures at..

 

[bluefury361]

I pulled the entire axle out of my 61 Fury and replaced it with a 68 Newport unit. It was a direct, bolt in. Even had the same gear ratio. The 68 axle was 5/8's inch wider, not an issue.
If you really feel the need to retain the tapered axle. Once the hubs are removed, clean the taper and sprinkle caulk on it on reassembly. Much easier to get apart next time.
Keep in mind the unique brake shoe return springs should be replaced every time the shoes are. They are reproduced at around $18.00 each. You need four for the rear.

 

[Davea Lux]

Hey Guys,

I am redoing the rear drums on my 64 New Yorker and am at a crossroads about what to do. Ideally, I'd like to get rid of these tapered axles so I can service them easier. I don't have a problem with the drums, but I DO have a problem with the Drum/Hub assembly as one unit.

My stock Drum/Hub assembly is cracked so I have to replace it. I would like to do away with the tapered axles and install newer flange axles so I could slide on some drums without the hub attached (hope that makes sense).

Anyone have any suggestions? Would any later Mopar axles fit? I think mine are the 30 spline/31.5 inch tapered axles. I already converted the front to discs, just want to clean up the rear drums is all. Is there a way to solve this without having to remove the entire rear end (pumpkin, gear, etc.)?

Thanks,

Mike

The easiest and cheapest way to address this would be change out the whole housing for a later complete unit. One of the custom axles if even available to convert you existing setup will probably cost as much as a used 8.75" in the later style. Going that route you might have to change the differential yoke to match your current drive line. The 65-69 C body should have the same spring pad width.



Dave

 

[jake]

Hub assembly for rear end?

 

[4spd300J]

I replaced the rear axle in my '63 Chrysler 300J with one out of a '67 Plymouth VIP. The spring pad centers were about 1/2" wider than the '63. I modified the center pin holes on the pads to match. I used the original '63 backing plates by boring the center hole out to the same size as the '67 axle bearing. That allowed me to keep the original 11 X 3" brakes and still have the adjustable bearings. The original drums pilot nicely on the later axles and everything fits and works well. The inner u-bolts lean in towards the center and a couple of wedge washers took care of that.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Earlier center section (pumpkin) have different length axles on open and sure grip rears. If you have a sure grip in it now with tapered axles it's the same as all later axles. The early open rears had longer axles ( smaller spacer in center)

 

[mikedrini]

It sounds as though Dr. Diff and Strange can both make the axles needed to upgrade from the tapered ones for a few hundred bucks. I just have to do a bunch of measuring. I didn't want to have to remove the entire housing, make sure the driveshaft yolk aligns properly, etc., if all I was upgrading was the axles (and some rear brake equipment).

I also had to order one of those dogbone pullers for the rear drums, dear god what a pain in the arse. I tried collapsing the shoes from behind, hammering the piss out of it, you name it. Eventually I broke down and ordered the dogbone from Ebay, not one of the cheap ones.

Then I will yank out the axles for measuring and hopefully be on my way to an upgrade (but we all know it ain't that simple). First snowfall of the year two days ago up here in the Shire, so it makes for a solid project in the ol garage.