The Charles Kee Wagon

Member's Projects & Restorations

  1. yvre

    yvre New Member

    Messages:
    47
    Likes Received:
    48
    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2012
    Location:
    Belgium
    Now that I've made my official introduction, here's the thread documenting the resto of my 1967 Fury III station wagon.

    It was found in Oregon by a friend of mine (I believe on Craiglist), so maybe some of you will have already seen it. I found the ad back via another site:

    http://www.2040-cars.com/Plymouth/G...ne-passenger-wagon-with-great-patina-1139561/

    [​IMG]

    I am selling a !967 Plymouth Fury III Nine Passenger Wagon. The car has a 383 big block backed by an automatic transmission. The car was originally purchased in the Redmond Oregon area and spent its entire existence in that area. The previous owner to me bought the car in 1988. He then drove it to his property in the Prineville Oregon area parked it and never drove it again. The car had been sitting in the same spot for 26 years until I purchased it recently.

    Her is what I know. The front end has some damage. The hood, grill, cowl, filler valance, one headlight bezel and the hood latch bracket have all been damaged. I believe the filler valance and the bracket as well as the cowl can all be repaired and used. The hood may also be possibly saved to protect the original patina of the car. I have had the motor running and it sounds good. The brakes are currently inoperable. The gauges and lights all seem to work. The factory a/c components are all there but I'm sure it will need serviced. The interior needs a complete restoration with the exception of the third seat which looks as if has never been sat in. The glass is all good with no cracks or chips, all the windows roll up and down, even the power rear window. There is no rust in the floors or body panels. The spare tire well has 4 pin holes and a thin area of surface rust on the inside of the tail gate. I would consider this car rust as rust free as it could get. I have described the vehicle as best as possible. If you have any questions or would like more pics please contact me.


    As I found out, it was originally part of the 'Charles Kee collection', which was discussed on this very site some time ago :

    http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar...ard-Up-For-Sale-In-Oregon!!&highlight=charles
    http://moparblog.com/charles-kee-collection-in-brothers-oregon/

    Charles Kee was apparently a car collector/hoarder that had amassed several hundred cars on his property in Brothers, Oregon. A lot were sold during the years (mainly A and B-bodies I think), and only the less popular C-Bodies remained ? When he died, they were all auctioned off.

    http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/showthread.php?11488-None-of-Them-Went-With-Him
    http://murphyauction.com/Auction/Details/578

    The funny thing is that, even though I have pictures of the car in the yard, it was not part of the auction. The 66 that was parked next to it was, so I suppose some fl!pper bought it between the day the pictures were taken and the day of the auction.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    • Like Like x 2
  2. yvre

    yvre New Member

    Messages:
    47
    Likes Received:
    48
    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2012
    Location:
    Belgium
    The car has now been shipped to Belgium, and is still at the shipper's yard. As I have no place to store it at the moment, it will get transported to the shop of the guy who sold me the car, and I'll try to make it running there.

    Here's my plan:

    1. Redo the whole brake system. In the beginning, I thought about going the 69-73 disc route, but if I understand correctly only an ECI/Scarebird kit with 11' rotors would allow me to keep the stock wheels (if somebody could confirm...?)
    2. Go through engine and gearbox to make it running
    3. Redo the whole interior & find the missing/damaged parts (dashpad, spare wheel cover, steering wheel, ...)
    4. Lower it and probably fit some 17in/18in wheels (I know, I know, but I'm ready for the bashing...)
    5. Drive it !

    I'll post pics as I go, but it will probably take another year, year and a half before it's actually running.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    • Like Like x 2
  3. bluefury361

    bluefury361 Old Man with a Hat

    Messages:
    12,597
    Likes Received:
    8814
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2011
    Location:
    Alabama Gulf Coast
    .
    [/LIST]


    Great score and nice plan....... Just need to delete step 4. :poke:

     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Agree Agree x 1
  4. mr. fix it

    mr. fix it Old Man with a Hat

    Messages:
    7,001
    Likes Received:
    4917
    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2013
    Location:
    Habitating in Kingston, NS
    ha ha!!!!!
     
  5. Fury440

    Fury440 At my age everything's a good idea

    Messages:
    2,643
    Likes Received:
    2041
    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2011
    Location:
    Calgary, Alberta
    This will be a great ride as well as a great restoration project. If you are willing to change rim size (step 4) then why not start with 15" and put '73 disc on the front and a TSM (The Streetrod Mfg. Co., Inc.) kit on the rear. My '70 Fury has disc front and rear, the brakes are great and the car stops very smoothly with zero control issues.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  6. thrashingcows

    thrashingcows Senior Member

    Messages:
    2,900
    Likes Received:
    1198
    Joined:
    May 15, 2012
    Location:
    British Columbia
    Welcome to the board! Nice long roof you have there! I look forward to progress pics and info.

    Nice think about cars from Oregon...is that they are generally rust free. High desert out that way. That is the samebasic geographical region my 68 T/C wagon came from...Yakima WA. My wagon is 99.99% rust free.

    If those rims are 15" then the 69-73 disc swap is straight forward....no custom parts needed. If they are 14" then you will need to run 15" rims to clear the disc brakes.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  7. thrashingcows

    thrashingcows Senior Member

    Messages:
    2,900
    Likes Received:
    1198
    Joined:
    May 15, 2012
    Location:
    British Columbia
    It appears from the one upside down engine pic that it is a factory disc brake car already? Although that 4 piston caliper set-up can be very costly to redo. I restored one a set-up on a 68 Coronet yeas ago...was into that set-up for about $1500 when all was said and done.
     
  8. CanCritter

    CanCritter Senior Member

    Messages:
    4,680
    Likes Received:
    3913
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2014
    Location:
    alberta
    hmmm....missed step 4....and he was doing so well to
     
  9. yvre

    yvre New Member

    Messages:
    47
    Likes Received:
    48
    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2012
    Location:
    Belgium
    I knew point 4 would get the discussion going... :)

    While I honestly don't plan to run 18's, I still much prefer the look of 17's vs 15's on a big car like this.
    It's just a matter of personal taste I guess... And I also l like the look with stock wheels and hubcaps...

    As for the lowering, I think the Fury lends itself to it particularly, as it has a natural 'nosebleed' stance.
    It doesn't need to be much mind you , just a bit at the front to give it some slight rake, like this car:

    http://www.usmuscle.com.au/Forum/showthread.php?t=12678
    [​IMG]
     
    • Like Like x 1
  10. CanCritter

    CanCritter Senior Member

    Messages:
    4,680
    Likes Received:
    3913
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2014
    Location:
    alberta
    don't mind me...welcome to the site enjoy.....
     
  11. yvre

    yvre New Member

    Messages:
    47
    Likes Received:
    48
    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2012
    Location:
    Belgium
    I'm ashamed to say I completely forgot to check the rim size when I went to look at the car. How can you see it from the engine compartment?

    [​IMG]
     
    • Like Like x 1
  12. saylor

    saylor Senior Member

    Messages:
    2,700
    Likes Received:
    1024
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2013
    Location:
    GARLAND TEXAS BABY !!!
    he is looking at the brake boosty probably
     
  13. yvre

    yvre New Member

    Messages:
    47
    Likes Received:
    48
    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2012
    Location:
    Belgium
    Or the Master Cylinder. I had a look in the manual and it looks like a drum MC to me (disc MC has the longer reservoir near the booster).
     
  14. thrashingcows

    thrashingcows Senior Member

    Messages:
    2,900
    Likes Received:
    1198
    Joined:
    May 15, 2012
    Location:
    British Columbia
    Yes the Bendix brake booster was specific to disc brake cars.

    Yes that is most likely a 4 wheel drum brake master cylinder...but I have seen that swapped on many times before. The correct cast iron disc brake MC can be hard to find sometimes, and people swap on the "easier to find" unit you see in the pic.
     
  15. Jeremiah

    Jeremiah Member

    Messages:
    56
    Likes Received:
    31
    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2015
    Location:
    Rogue River, OR
    I was at the Charles Kee Auction. Let me look at my notes. I can probably tell you what it sold for. That was a fun day however the weather was miserable! I took 10k and didn't buy a thing. The auction frenzy was in full effect! There were a few VERY cool c-cars there. The yellow N-code Newport convertible, the 440 4-speed '68 convertible, and the list went on.
     
  16. yvre

    yvre New Member

    Messages:
    47
    Likes Received:
    48
    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2012
    Location:
    Belgium
    The car has finally left the shipper's yard and is now stored in my friend's warehouse.
    11940204_10153060741671863_1751067065_n.jpg



    The winch broke so it has to stay on the trailer until it gets repaired, but at least it's in a dry place now. This poor thing has probably seen more rain in the last 2 months than in 25 years in the desert...

    IMG_0099_2.jpg

    I went there on saturday for a couple of hours for some much needed bonding. The first thing I did was rip out the smelly, dusty, old carpet. That thing was nasty!!! I still can't get the seats out so there's a bit of it left but the majority is out.

    I was quite happy with what I discovered :

    IMG_0093_2.jpg IMG_0098_2.jpg
    IMG_0095_2.jpg
    IMG_0097_2.jpg

    (excuse the bad pics, the place was really dark)

    The rear right side carpet was damp, and that's where most of the surface rust is located. The belt strips on that side are completely shot and this is where the water was coming from. It looks quite bad in the pic, but it actually just needs a good cleaning, I didn't find any hole.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  17. yvre

    yvre New Member

    Messages:
    47
    Likes Received:
    48
    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2012
    Location:
    Belgium
    Here's what I found on the floor :
    Build%20sheet_2.jpg

    I haven't had the chance to look at the fender tag, but the sheet tells me the following :
    VIN : PM46G7417229
    Model year : 1967
    Car Line and Model : PLYMOUTH – FURY III
    Price Class : Medium
    Body Type : 9 Passenger Wagon
    Engine : 383 CID 1-2BBL 8 CYL
    Assembly Plant : Belvedere, IL
    Sequence Number : 172293

    I can also see it has power disc brakes, power steering, locking glovebox, tinted glass, passenger side mirror, power tailgate, luggage rack, rear dome light, and some other things I can't decipher.

    So Trashingcows, you were right! Discs and 15in wheels...

    I found a 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] build sheet in the footwell – strange place if you ask me... - it is the same as the other one.
    DSC_0096_2.jpg

    I plan to clean it some more in the coming days/weeks so I don't have to wear a mask when I want to get in, and I'll also be ordering some brake and suspension parts.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  18. yvre

    yvre New Member

    Messages:
    47
    Likes Received:
    48
    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2012
    Location:
    Belgium
    I got the car off the trailer last week so I could put it in its temporary spot. That required another 2 hours of cleaning as it was a real mess.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Unfortunately, I learned that my friend will not be keeping the place, which means I'll have to move the car again in the near future. It's a shame as this place is super roomy, dry, and not too far from my home.

    In the mean time, work continues inside the car. I removed the remnants of the headliner, but unfortunately I could only save 2 plastic bows. They were very brittle and most just crumbled as soon as I touched them. I'll try to find some 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] hand ones (good luck with that...!) or find a homemade alternative.

    [​IMG]

    With the help of a friend, I also got the seats out so it's much easier to climb inside the car to clean and scrape the back of the seat panels. Next step is to wire wheel the surface rust on the roof and the floors.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Oh, to make up for the lack of progress on the car, I also placed an order at Rockauto for nearly 1,000$. :banana:
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2015
    • Like Like x 1
  19. azblackhemi

    azblackhemi Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

    Messages:
    5,511
    Likes Received:
    3858
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2010
    Location:
    Waddell AZ
    Just an FYI on those wagon headliner bows, you will never get the plastic trim off of the metal retainers so I just remove the end caps and unscrew the ends and take them off in one piece.
     
  20. yvre

    yvre New Member

    Messages:
    47
    Likes Received:
    48
    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2012
    Location:
    Belgium
    That's an excellent tip... that I'll remember for the next one... :-/