The Odd Rod 65 Fury won't Start

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My 65 Plymouth Sport Fury is called the "Odd Rod" by my friends in the classic car and truck world. I had been driving my car every Sunday after church. I drive ruffly between 150-200 miles around the area. My problem began on June 11th of this year. Haven't had any problems with the car in 4 or 5 years other than on April 29th I had to replace the battery. On June 11th I had changed my oil, oil filter, air filter, checked all my fluid levels, tie pressure etc etc. Opened the door and the dome lights came on closed the door they went off. Turned the key over to run the vacuum pump came on than to start and the car started let it run for a few minutes to circulate the oil and allow it to drain back down to the pan. Checked the oil, oil level was fine. Started the car and took it out for a short drive of about 50 miles came back parked the car everything was working. Checked the fluid levels again they were all good. Went to start the car again. Opened the door dome lights can on closed the door they went off. Turned the key over to run nothing then on over to start and nothing. No clicking no nothing everything is dead just like there was no battery in the car with the key placed in each positive. I even tried to jump start it with a screwdriver and nothing no click no nothing. I was thinking Battery But I checked it and the cables and all that is good. Maybe a bad ground, Starter Relay, Starter or Ignition Switch. Please give me your thoughts on this problem.
 

Sixpactogo

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My first thought would be Neutral safety switch came unhooked or failed at the transmission. Second thought would be starter relay since you have dome lights.
 

413

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Clean the battery terminals and cable ends
Bad battery cable
Bad fusible link
Loose connections at the bulkhead connector.
 
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Follow this thread and let me know if she fires right up...
Underhood Ammeter Bypass
Hello Cbarge. I just finished looking and reading "Underhood Ammeter Bypass". I would have never thought about doing that or even how to do it. Your instructions are pretty good and clear and the photos helped a lot also. I have a couple of questions for you about the Ammeter Bypass. First, is this just to see if the car will start? Second, is this a permanent fix if it starts or a temporary fix until the real source of the issue can permanently fixed and will everything work such as lights, horn, heater, heater fan and radio etc etc. And third. The Alternator. This engine is a 88 LA 318 built to a 340 with a 727 automatic trans with a 2200 stall convertor and is 17 years old. I used the original Alternator when the engine was first built back in early 2003. Since then I have had to replace the Alternator probably 10 years ago? I don't know what the amps are. How do I find out what the amps are to be able to use the right size wires. I know it's a heavy duty Alternator because it has a double grooved pulley because of the A/C, power steering and power brakes so its not a 38 amp maybe a 78 amp? I know if it was a single grooved pulley it would be 35 to 38 amps with no A/C or power steering or power brakes. So if it's a double grooved pulley its a 45 or 50 amp Alternator. It came from NAPA Auto Parts. That I do know for sure.
 
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cbarge

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Hello Cbarge. I just finished looking and reading "Underhood Ammeter Bypass". I would have never thought about doing that or even how to do it. Your instructions are pretty good and clear and the photos helped a lot also. I have a couple of questions for you about the Ammeter Bypass. First, is this just to see if the car will start? Second, is this a permanent fix if it starts or a temporary fix until the real source of the issue can permanently fixed and will everything work such as lights, horn, heater, heater fan and radio etc etc. And third. The Alternator. This engine is a 88 LA 318 built to a 340 with a 727 automatic trans with a 2200 stall convertor and is 17 years old. I used the original Alternator when the engine was first built back in early 2003. Since then I have had to replace the Alternator probably 10 years ago? I don't know what the amps are. How do I find out what the amps are to be able to use the right size wires. I know it's a heavy duty Alternator because it has a double grooved pulley because of the A/C, power steering and power brakes so its not a 38 amp maybe a 78 amp? I know if it was a single grooved pulley it would be 35 to 38 amps with no A/C or power steering or power brakes. So if it's a double grooved pulley its a 45 or 50 amp Alternator. It came from NAPA Auto Parts. That I do know for sure.
This is a permanent fix that can ensure the car should start if the ammeter guage failed.
S others have mentioned there could be other culprits to the no start condition that should be checked as a process of elimination.
For your wiring regarding the bypass 10 guage with 14 gauge fusible link is acceptable.
Using a multi meter can measure the voltage output of alternator and some multi meters may be able to read the amps too.
Hope this helps, any questions pm me
Cheers
 
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