Thicker flange gaskets?
- Thread starter mopar440
- Start date
3C's & a D?
Senior Member
Any of the hot rod or drag car supply store's will have the graphite gaskets of that shape. They start out at about a quarter inch thick and crush down, they're made for when things are "tweaked" or warped. I've used them, and their head to manifold gaskets with excellent success.
twostick
Senior Member
What's the difference? Hi temp RTV between them and stack up as many as it takes or fix the flange.
Kevin
Kevin
We don't have any shops like that around here, any idea of brand/name of that gasket or material?
3C's & a D?
Senior Member
Any idea how these exhaust gaskets are from 2 Bolt?
Home > Manifold / Header Gaskets > Mopar (Chrysler, Dodge, Eagle, Plymouth) > V8 >
PN 6002 -- Mopar 361ci ('57-'67), 383ci ('59-'71)(Jensen '70-'71), 400ci ('72-'80), 413ci ('59-'65), 426ci Wedge ('63-'65), 440ci ('66-'80)(Jensen '72-'76) 2/set
MSRP $47.29
Home > Manifold / Header Gaskets > Mopar (Chrysler, Dodge, Eagle, Plymouth) > V8 >
PN 6002 -- Mopar 361ci ('57-'67), 383ci ('59-'71)(Jensen '70-'71), 400ci ('72-'80), 413ci ('59-'65), 426ci Wedge ('63-'65), 440ci ('66-'80)(Jensen '72-'76) 2/set
MSRP $47.29
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
I have used the Remflex gaskets on big block chevys and they worked well
No gaskets on exhaust manifolds to heads, just like the factory does it.
That's a good question!
Yea, that would probably need a good gasket.
In my experience the cast iron heads will blow out the gasket, especially if the car is driven hard. But the vastly different expansion rates of aluminum and cast iron says to me that a gasket is needed.
I'd be curious what gaskets are being run on these and what kind of success they are having.
Me also. I am also a bit worried about if you mill the mating surface flat on the exhaust manifolds they start to get awfully close to the valve cover too.
3C's & a D?
Senior Member
Any idea how these exhaust gaskets are from 2 Bolt?
Home > Manifold / Header Gaskets > Mopar (Chrysler, Dodge, Eagle, Plymouth) > V8 >
PN 6002 -- Mopar 361ci ('57-'67), 383ci ('59-'71)(Jensen '70-'71), 400ci ('72-'80), 413ci ('59-'65), 426ci Wedge ('63-'65), 440ci ('66-'80)(Jensen '72-'76) 2/set
View attachment 373413
View attachment 373414
MSRP $47.29
The company's name is Remflex, that was just a specific link. I've used the head to manifold gaskets twice, on a 360 and a 440. Both time's I only used one due to noticable exhaust leaks and broken studs and not wanting to remove the head. I can't say enough good things about them. No complaints whatsoever, they smell a bit initially, it goes away though. They are thick, but crush down a bit, or alot. With what you're doing, I'd consider the thinner, harder one's that have the tab that sticks up and supposedly helps protect spark plug wires. They're made specifically for the HP manifolds. Sorry, I don't have a link. I do know that welderguy runs them!
Usually, it's the cast iron exhaust manifold that warps, not the cyl head surface they touch. Using one of the quality "black" header gaskets (which usually are graphite-impregnated material with a wire mesh inside of them) will work, even if the warped manifold is surfaced on the cyl head side. MUCH better header gaskets, than the "white" gaskets that used to come with many pair of headers! But they also cost more.
When we changed the engine in my '77 Camaro (orig 305) to a 350 with 1968 Corvette aluminum heads, we used such a "black" header gasket with the factory cart iron exhaust manifolds. Been on there well past 200K miles, now. No issues at all.
With respect to the posted link, how do we know the compressed thickness of the gaskets pictured? Just curious.
Thanks for posting that link,
CBODY67
When we changed the engine in my '77 Camaro (orig 305) to a 350 with 1968 Corvette aluminum heads, we used such a "black" header gasket with the factory cart iron exhaust manifolds. Been on there well past 200K miles, now. No issues at all.
With respect to the posted link, how do we know the compressed thickness of the gaskets pictured? Just curious.
Thanks for posting that link,
CBODY67
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
When I was doing exhaust work back in the 80's if the copper RTV didn't seal, we would use the wood stove gasket sealant fort he really bad warped manifolds if the customer didn't want to replace or machine the manifolds.
We did a lot of filing, grinding, & 60 grit sandpaper on the floor of the shop to flatten out the surfaces...
We did a lot of filing, grinding, & 60 grit sandpaper on the floor of the shop to flatten out the surfaces...
3C's & a D?
Senior Member
Yep, both time's I used the head to manifold gasket the manifold had a slight bow to it. With the middle being high, and the outer ports touching the head. Throw a broken stud or two in the mix and you've got an exhaust leak. Like mr. fix it, I also try to flatten out the manifold as best as possible, a belt sander is your friend in this instance.
As for the compressed thickness, they start at about a quarter inch thick, and I don't think you would want to compress them to more than an eighth of an inch. They would start to flake. I still have two in their packages, I'll see if there is more information from the manufacturer.
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