Tips for cold starts?

prd2bdf

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This is my first carburetor car and I have been struggling with cold starts (45-55*). I can get it started then it dies about twenty seconds later then I can’t get it started because it’s flooded and or it cranks then whirs.

I’ll be taking it on a 1000 mile road trip in October to admire the fall colors and would like to learn how to start it on cold mornings.
It is a 1973 Newport with the 2 barrel 400.

my dad said to keep the throttle pinned while cranking to help drain the fuel. I did that then it starts for a second then die.

for the record, I’m Deaf and I can’t rely on “oh when you hear it…” advice. Some people have told me that
 

HWYCRZR

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The keys are in the choke setting and the cold start idle position. I don’t have a ‘73 manual to verify, but in the ‘68, the starting procedure is to press the throttle all the way to the floor and then let off all the way before cranking. This sets the cold idle cam (a linkage with a series of steps) and closes the choke. Press to the floor shoots a stream of gas into the intake. Then the linkage sets on a stop that holds the throttle around 1700 rpm. This sets and holds the throttle Car should start right up. Let it idle a few minutes to warm up and you should be good to go. This may be explained in your operators manual and will get more in-depth in the Factory service manual. This is assuming your car has not been severely modified by someone that didn’t know what they were doing. I didn’t see a chrysler but the 73 dodge should help explain how it works.
Service Manuals – MyMopar

There may be some others on here that could be more familiar with ‘73.

Please clarify if you have an automatic choke. (Uses heat from the manifold to open) Electric choke(has wires going to some heat sensor) or manual ( someone installed a cable)
 

FURYGT

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I agree with the above procedure. Sometimes on these cars you have to crack the throttle a bit, press on the accelerator pedal just a touch on cold starts. Remove your foot from the accelerator pedal as soon as she starts. Your dad's procedure is what to do if you floor the engine and sometimes that works. Sometimes you need to give the spark plugs some time to dry off from the flooded condition, which can saturate the spark plugs.
 

prd2bdf

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I know the carburetor was replaced by the previous owner with a United reman 66163 2 barrel. I’ll have to see what it has.

I do the 1 pump then start. She can do that but after that, runs for a bit then dies. Should I keep the throttle open while warming up?
 

FURYGT

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I know the carburetor was replaced by the previous owner with a United reman 66163 2 barrel. I’ll have to see what it has.

I do the 1 pump then start. She can do that but after that, runs for a bit then dies. Should I keep the throttle open while warming up?

Yes, do the 1 pump before you try to start the car. Sometimes you need to feather the gas pedal to keep it from stalling right away. Some cars require a couple of pumps before starting. Your fast idle setting may be to low if the car is stalling right away after starting it.
 

1978 NYB

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All good advice so far. I would bring the RPM's up to 1500 or so for a couple of minutes until the engine warms up. Unless you have a tach....it might be difficult for you to tell how fast the engine is running.

I would also take a can of ether and some quality long jumper cables with you on your trip just in case you run into troubles.

We are looking forward to your great pictures of your trip!
 

prd2bdf

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Still haven’t gotten it started. It just whirs now, I can feel whirring and the fan doesn’t move
 

Big_John

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Still haven’t gotten it started. It just whirs now, I can feel whirring and the fan doesn’t move
That's a starter problem and not related to your cold start issues.

Based on "whirs", I think that the starter isn't engaging the ring gear.
 

BAD69FURY

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I swapped my 70 Newport over too MSD electronic ignition with a 1406 four barrel Edelbrock carb/auto electric choke and 2186 Edelbrock performer intake manifold. Numerous people have tried this combo with outstanding results. :thumbsup:
 

BAD69FURY

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Press the pedal once to set the choke and maybe a couple pumps on the pedal,if its been sitting awhile, crank her over fires right up (auto-choke takes over)
 

prd2bdf

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Had my brother take a look (he’s hearing) and also an ASE certified mechanic. He confirmed that the starter is going bad. Yay another part to replace.
 

thethee

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That's a starter problem and not related to your cold start issues.

Based on "whirs", I think that the starter isn't engaging the ring gear.
X2 on the starter problem. Hopefully it's the starter and not the ring gear itself like it was one mine. That was not easy to replace.
 

Big_John

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Could be loose starter bolts.
It's probably a broken starter drive.

s-l300.jpg


In my experiences, they break when the engine "kicks" or backfires when starting.
 

prd2bdf

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That's a starter problem and not related to your cold start issues.

Based on "whirs", I think that the starter isn't engaging the ring gear.

I know it was not related to my cold start issue, I just was putting it in here just because I didn’t want to make another new thread.

but now I’m learning about how to properly start the car. WHEN the damn starter gets replaced, I’ll know how to properly start it
 

prd2bdf

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It's probably a broken starter drive.

View attachment 487898

In my experiences, they break when the engine "kicks" or backfires when starting.

the motor still cranks but Elijah (my brother) and I think the starter isn’t staying engaged long enough to fire over the motor. It cranks then whirs. Cranks then whir. If it was a broken starter drive, would it still crank or just go directly to whir or whatever noise it makes
 
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