Trailer hitches for C bodies

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Does anyone know if a truck receiver style hitch will bolt up to a C body??

More specifically, I have a 68 fury, 2 door fast top and I need a hitch on it, so if anyone has ideas where to start.

I like the reciever type with the removable ball.

Thanks.
 
Well, years ago I bought a receiver style hitch that was supposed to have come off a 65 Polara. I never did get around to putting it on, but it did look promising when I held it up near the frame.
 
With our C bodies being a half century old, Curt and Reese no longer lists our cars.
Supply and demand I guess.
There is a thread where a member made a hitch.
You may end up making one or post in the wanted section for a used hitch.
Btw, as for the trailer wiring I would recommend adding relays to handle the extra load and a heavy duty flasher unit.
Hope this helps. Cheers
 
I happen to have a Hitch that I bought from a fellow member I WAS gonna use on my 75 NYB. But!..
I’ll pull it out take pics for ya and post. I’ll also get rail to rail measurements for you to see if it’ll fit within your rail. Maybe you can make it work.
 
Here is a link to the hitch I made for Jezebelle, a 69 300. I designed it to be detachable and it also bolted directly to my 69 Fury suburban, I towed a 2500 lb vintage camper thousands of miles using it.

Trailer hitch
 
Better get some "reinforcements" for the rear springs. I completely favor the (cursed to some) air shocks rather than the "spring assist" rear shocks, for all of the right reasons. Especially that many factory HD trailer option packages came with them.

When I bought my '70 Monaco used, looking at some of the service repair orders (specifically that the gas tank had to be removed/cleaned and there was an extra charge to r&r a trailer hitch), the car did have a trailering past. The rear springs were sagged. It had a pair of "Load Levelers" on it, and it still sat low in the rear. A pair of Gabriel Hi-Jackers went on and it rode/handled much better, plus sitting level. Took about 50psi to do that, as I recall. No problems, either.

How much trailer? Trailer brake set-up? What rear axle ratio? Additional trans cooler?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Better get some "reinforcements" for the rear springs. I completely favor the (cursed to some) air shocks rather than the "spring assist" rear shocks, for all of the right reasons. Especially that many factory HD trailer option packages came with them.

When I bought my '70 Monaco used, looking at some of the service repair orders (specifically that the gas tank had to be removed/cleaned and there was an extra charge to r&r a trailer hitch), the car did have a trailering past. The rear springs were sagged. It had a pair of "Load Levelers" on it, and it still sat low in the rear. A pair of Gabriel Hi-Jackers went on and it rode/handled much better, plus sitting level. Took about 50psi to do that, as I recall. No problems, either.

How much trailer? Trailer brake set-up? What rear axle ratio? Additional trans cooler?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

Personally,I'd recommend new springs over air shocks as the shock mounts aren't really designed to be a load bearing part of the vehicle in long term use.
Obviously people have done it and it probably won't hurt if they're only taking a small load but it's not optimal for handling or longevity.
 
I installed an extra secondary main leaf to my spring set and used coil over shocks. It added about an 1 1/2" to the ride height but was perfect with the trailer attached.
I also use a equalizer hitch and a sway control. The sway control is great on the highway but can be a pain in tight quarters unless the tension is backed off.
Trailer brakes make a big difference to.

DSC02966.JPG
 
Here is a link to the hitch I made for Jezebelle, a 69 300. I designed it to be detachable and it also bolted directly to my 69 Fury suburban, I towed a 2500 lb vintage camper thousands of miles using it.

Trailer hitch
I'm in the process of making a hitch mimicking bluefury361's method. I need to check a few more measurements then I'll be having the plates burnt out.

It will be a three piece unit. Two vertical mounts that mount where the bumper brackets go and the tube piece that connects the two sides.
 
Back in 1975, when I was considering how to best get the Monaco to be level again, there were few options in "small town America". Getting new springs from Chrysler was generally not done for anything other than the current model year. Getting new springs from a spring shop, which might or night not be accurate for what was needed in my case, from a shop that was at least 30 minutes away, was a big "not sure if I want to do that" situation. Detroit Eaton Spring was doing OEM items and Espo was not learned of until the middle 1990s or so.

By observation, the Load Levelers were not a good alternative, as it didn't seem that the variable-rate helper springs would probably sag over time. I wanted something that would work and that I could control myself. Of course, having a 1 3/8" piston bore (as the air shocks had) matched that of the HD shocks available back then. The Gabriels had a protected air bag, whereas the competition had an espoused air bag. Hurst had one that was completely internal, but it wasn't available. So, the Gabriels were the air shock of choics.

There was no consideration of how load-bearing that u-channel upper shock crossmember might have been, but it seemed plenty stout and was welded to the rear frame rails. It just worked.

For less than $100.00 installed, the air shocks did what I wanted them to do and they lasted very well. The min air pressure was 30psi (probably to keep the air bag in its correct shape) and about 20psi more got it level, with NO increase in ride rate. So, at that time, it made $$$$ and cents, sense to do what I did.

Handling? The rear end felt more planted in turns, almost like it had a rear sway bar, but didn't. The common "rail" of air pressure would resist body lean on one side, but also put more pressure on the inner wheel for better traction and feel. I liked that.

In the landscape we are in now, calling up Eaton Detroit or Espo and telling them what I need would be a better option, no doubt. "Plug 'n' Play". Especially now that spring shops are fewer and more far between, usually concerned more with school busses and such.

Different times, different possible decisions. BTAIM

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
We always used a 4 point class three hitch to pull our travel trailer. The 4 point mounts in essence straddled the gas tanks or footwell on a wagon. (See the other thread here for pictures) Helps distribute the load better and nearer the rear axle. Torsion bars on the trailer tongue for load leveling is a must. Vehicles were stock with no trailer tow package.
 
Here’s the bumper hitch I said I would find in the barn that came on my 66. Pretty light duty And maybe only good for a utility trailer or smaller boat Etc.

B2ED508D-C3F0-4E36-96C6-D0BEA6189305.jpeg
79B68790-EE43-4543-8925-AB5FCEFAD2D6.jpeg
 
Speaking of trailer hitches... I just came across this on Craigslist and it's NOT MINE! so don't PM me.

Late 1960s Plymouth Fury Class II hitch - $35 (Florissant)

Late 1960s Plymouth Fury Class II hitch - $35 (Florissant).jpg


See if I have the link, oh here it is:

Class II hitch - auto parts - by owner - vehicle automotive sale

Might as well post the text, they may not know what they have either.

This was on a late '60s Plymouth Fury, towed a 2500# boat. It could likely be adapted to another vehicle. Good condition.

Cash only, local only.

post id: 7111941764
posted: 2020-04-21 20:19
 
image.jpeg
Question,Did Chrysler ever put hitches on Cs at the factory or were they dealer installed,aftermarket installed?
There is a hitch on my 61. It's very form fitting and looks factory. At least a hitch made special for 60 to 64 rear frame.
 
View attachment 379323 Question,Did Chrysler ever put hitches on Cs at the factory or were they dealer installed,aftermarket installed?
There is a hitch on my 61. It's very form fitting and looks factory. At least a hitch made special for 60 to 64 rear frame.

No factory hitch's. I've never seen one in a accessory catalog either. Could be though. Likely something to do with liabilities.

Some owners manuals will have a "recommend" hitch diagram.
 
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