transmissionm replacement suggestions

moonrunner1972

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I am considering buying a new (rebult) transmission for my 1973 Dodge Polara and need some advice. I noticed that Summit sells a TCI Street fighter transmission for $1,154.95 (http://www.summitracing.com/search/...art-Type/Automatic-Transmissions/?Ns=Rank|Asc)

for street engines up to 450 hp. Granted my stock 400 produces nowhere near that much power however I do plan on rebuilding a respectable but streetable 440 for the car (eventually). I also noticed this guy on the net,

http://727specialist.com/

This guy is from Indiana and he rebuilds HD 727's for $900 and up depending on the intended application.

So........:poke:

I would like your advice on which direction to go for this topic. My stock and original (except fluid and filter changes) transmission slips and leaks from every seal and rebuilding is just a bit beyond my ability (without experienced oversight).

And then>>>>:3gears:Any suggestions on a torque converter????


:eek:ld_school:THANKS!!!!
 
I'd start by seeing if there was a reputable rebuilder in your area. Your trans sounds like it would make for a good rebuild able core and why pay for any shipping of something this big and heavy if you don't have to. My 2 cents. Best of luck.
 
Use a reliable local builder using your tranny and have him build it to the Hemi Torqueflite specs.
It's that simple.
Unless you're using a cam that idles like $#!%, reuse your stock, torque converter. I have never seen a TC go bad outside of racing.
 
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I agree, stay local, check on the shops reputation first, and if there are any issues with it down the road, you have somewhere to go.
 
Thanks for the advice gentlemen, I greatly appreciate the feedback. I will be forced to use the local craft shop to r&r the transmission when the time comes so rebuilding the existing thransmission may not be feasable. If I were to find a good core wha should I expect to pay for the core and a rebuild?
 
A total rebuild with HD internals...
12 hundred bucks or so.
T'ain't cheap.
I've sold Torqueflites from 150 - 250 bucks.
Sent using Forum Runner
 
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A total rebuild with HD internals...
12 hundred bucks or so.
T'ain't cheap.
I've sold Torqueflites from 150 - 250 bucks.
Sent using Forum Runner

Sounds about right on the cores but its been a really long time since I had a 727 rebuilt, is it really that much? OUCH!!!
 
Yep. I've seen three Torqueflites rebuilt recently by different shops. All of them came out to aprox. that much.
 
Yep. I've seen three Torqueflites rebuilt recently by different shops. All of them came out to aprox. that much.

Well if that's the going price then $1,200 for a rebuilt from Summit sounds like a competitive price.
 
Search forabodiesonly for recent complaints about rebuilt trannys from big-name places. I would use a local one-man shop who puts his reputation on his work. I took a 727 (out of car) to several shops. Aamco said they couldn't rebuild transmissions (what do they do?). Cottman rebuilt it, but that didn't fix the problem (morning sickness), so not sure they even took it apart. In the future, I will rebuild myself. Since then I rebuilt a Mopar A-413 (Torqueflite) and A-604 (both FWD) and they were much easier than I imagined. A rebuild kit is ~$110 w/ steels.
 
In the future, I will rebuild myself. Since then I rebuilt a Mopar A-413 (Torqueflite) and A-604 (both FWD) and they were much easier than I imagined. A rebuild kit is ~$110 w/ steels.
Good for you! Local mop & pop with long established reputation or do it yourself. Those are the only two options.

The chains (Maaco, et al) hire newbies right of tech school and pay min. wage and beat on them without mercy to upsell, upSell, UPSELL!!!
 
Well if that's the going price then $1,200 for a rebuilt from Summit sounds like a competitive price.
Go ahead. Roll the dice... Is Summit going to pull it out for you and pay for the return shipping all within a day or two?
If you HAVE to roll the dice, do it with someone you can be face to face with.
 
The trans has several issues. The first is that every seal leaks undoubtedly since its been in the car for 39 years. Second when cold it moves slowly, specifically when I place it in drive the car has to be revved a bit before it moves. Ideally I would love to rebuild it myself however I do not have a proper garage to leave it as I perform the work. Although I have a large sturdy workbench to conduct the rebuild as well as Carl H. Munroe's HP Book Torqueflite A-727 Transmission Handbook I am a bit reluctant to perform the work myself.

The best case scenario would be for me to do all of the work myself with the help of a friend with experience on the project. I suppose the second best course of action would be to find a reputable shop familiar with 727's. I don't suppose anyone lives near Niceville, FL or knows of someone in the local area???
 
Which of the 2 band adjustments is adjustable from the outside? If it's first/reverse you could tighten that up and see if it takes care of your slipping problem. If it does then you could drop the pan and the valve body and replace all the seals and tighten the other band and be on your way for anothe couple years before the total rebuild. Just a thought. I'm no automatic guru, so really, it's just a thought!
 
The trans has several issues. The first is that every seal leaks undoubtedly since its been in the car for 39 years. Second when cold it moves slowly, specifically when I place it in drive the car has to be revved a bit before it moves.
As far as I know, the only external seal that you cannot replace with it in the car is the front seal behind the torque converter. You can tell if that is leaking by removing the lower inspection plate and look for a red run down behind the converter. The other seals are easily replaced, the hardest being the rear seal since you must remove the driveshaft (easy job for 65+ w/ sliding yoke).

Most likely your leak is from the tranny pan gasket. You should change the oil and filter once in a while anyway (say 20 years). While off, adjust the L/R band per manual. Also adjust the front band (external bolt). If a problem going into R, it could be thee L/R servo piston (can cock in bore) and there is a cheap redesign for that which I think you can do from below without removing the valve body w/ large snap ring pliers). I refill w/ ATF+4 since it is fully synthetic and I read it has the most friction modifiers, but you can find endless discussion on forabodiesonly (and here).

Your "slips a while" problem is the "morning sickness" I referred to. No shop has fixed that for me so I question their competence and rebuilds. The simple cure I read of, which works OK for me, is to shift to N and wait ~10 sec. That refills the torque converter quickly. Otherwise, it seems to take >30 sec unless you parked facing downhill.​
 
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