Trying to identify 383 2bbl at distributor 2642246

Cartel

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I need a vacuum advance and probably points.
Has anyone used the pertonix on these?

thanks

IMG_2974.JPGIMG_2975.JPGIMG_2976.JPG
 

Cartel

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I think its a IBP and those are Prestolite IBP2040LA Standard AL5486P points maybe?
The tag does say IBP-4005H also
 
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halifaxhops

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Think thats canadian without hitting the books. And yes petronixs makes a unit for them, works great.
 

halifaxhops

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I have most of them. I have to cross reference the prestolight numbers. I wish I had some Canadian catalouges.
 

CBODY67

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Interesting to see a cast iron case distributor that is not a dual-point unit.
 

halifaxhops

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Like I posted. Pretty common on Canadian B/RB actually. Have a bunch of them.
 

Big_John

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But don’t overthink it, just get the standard Pertronix unit not the II or III.
Gotta strongly disagree with you on that.

From what I've read, the Pertronix II has some protective circuits in it. As I've read on quite a few occasions, the Pertronix I will burn out of the ignition is left on or (IIRC) if the voltage isn't correct (both low and high). The Pertronix II is supposed to eliminate those problems and have more robust circuitry. ALL the issues I've ever read about with the Pertronix failing were Pertronix I units and often, the ignition being left on was the culprit.

The Pertronix III is overkill for most applications, I'll give you that.

Quite frankly, I'm not even sure they offer the Pertronix I anymore.
 

CBODY67

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In following the Pertronix recommendations for years, at first, everybody in the particular forums were highly in favor of the Pertronix units (Olds and Buick forums). That was when there was only ONE unit for sale. Then came the Pertronix II system, which was supposed to be better, but some still liked the orig system. Then came Pertronix III (with multi-strike, IIRC) and it was the next best thing. Yet some still liked the orig system. Seems like they now have 6V systems?

In one respect, nobody listens to their car radios with the ign key in "run" (engine off) anymore, so that one issue might be moot now. Plus most vehicles have an "ACC" position, even back then. Even in a points system, doing that (using "run" rather than "acc" could allegedly cook the points and run down the battery, IF the engine stopped and the points were closed. BTAIM

Go to their website and read about EACH version and go from there. Some things might be over-kill for what some really need in an electronic ign conversion, by observation.

Whatever works,
CBODY67
 

Big_John

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In one respect, nobody listens to their car radios with the ign key in "run" (engine off) anymore, so that one issue might be moot now. Plus most vehicles have an "ACC" position, even back then. Even in a points system, doing that (using "run" rather than "acc" could allegedly cook the points and run down the battery, IF the engine stopped and the points were closed. BTAIM
Well, there's a lot of times when stupid stuff happens... Passenger turns on the key to listen to the radio while you're in the store.. Car is idling to warm up while you are doing something else and it quits and you don't notice because you're busy...

Never say never... and while you might not do it, the guy at the tire store might... etc..
 

detmatt

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Gotta strongly disagree with you on that.

From what I've read, the Pertronix II has some protective circuits in it. As I've read on quite a few occasions, the Pertronix I will burn out of the ignition is left on or (IIRC) if the voltage isn't correct (both low and high). The Pertronix II is supposed to eliminate those problems and have more robust circuitry. ALL the issues I've ever read about with the Pertronix failing were Pertronix I units and often, the ignition being left on was the culprit.

The Pertronix III is overkill for most applications, I'll give you that.

Quite frankly, I'm not even sure they offer the Pertronix I anymore.
I guess we’re reading different threads…
I’ve got 30k miles on a “I” completely trouble free and regret switching from another “I” on a different car to Chrysler electronic ignition.
 

Big_John

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I guess we’re reading different threads…
I’ve got 30k miles on a “I” completely trouble free and regret switching from another “I” on a different car to Chrysler electronic ignition.
I'm not saying that the I isn't reliable, I'm just saying the II is much more reliable by design. I do know that the huge issue was burn out because the ignition being left on and I do know that was addressed in the II. It seems to me there was an over/under(?) voltage problem that was causing failures too, but I'm not going to look to prove that one way or another.

Now, that's not saying that Pertronix didn't do the smart thing and update the circuitry since the last time I took a hard look at them for one of my cars. I just looked and the "I" is available... Seems to me that it wasn't back when I bought the last one.

I'd still recommend the II though.

You know... Now someone is going to start telling us how they went a million miles on one set of points and how these are all junk... Blah. blah.. LOL
 

Cartel

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I am trying to figure out what pertronix I need. 1381A or 1385ls
The 1381a has a spring tab on the rotor and mine is a flat blade
2021259.jpg


I think for now I will file these pionts and set the gap .017"
Its not going anywhere for a few months anyway
 

70NEWYORKER

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I am trying to figure out what pertronix I need. 1381A or 1385ls
The 1381a has a spring tab on the rotor and mine is a flat blade
View attachment 576366


I think for now I will file these pionts and set the gap .017"
Its not going anywhere for a few months anyway
If that is your rotor then your cap should have a spring loaded carbon cylinder in the center position to press against rotor.
 

Cartel

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If that is your rotor then your cap should have a spring loaded carbon cylinder in the center position to press against rotor.
yes it does
which I realize the cap and rotor I bought several months ago wont fit:(
 
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halifaxhops

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I am trying to figure out what pertronix I need. 1381A or 1385ls
The 1381a has a spring tab on the rotor and mine is a flat blade
View attachment 576366


I think for now I will file these pionts and set the gap .017"
Its not going anywhere for a few months anyway
1381 is for the single point aluminum housing for sure. I have done dozens of them in the Pet I version. Never had one fail. Yes leaving the key on and not running will burn out all the mopar eletronic ECU's for sure. I have to remember to grab my Petronix book and look up your number. PM me all the tag info if you can. As for a cap you need the dual point style along with the rotor. If needed I have really nice NORS ones listed.
 
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