Turn signal question

[NOOP]

Hi guys - working through some stuff on a recently acquired 1966 Chrysler Newport.

Question: If the turn signal bulb behind the instrument panel is out, will that impede the flashing of the external turn signals?

When I turn on the separate flasher switch, they blink at all 4 corners. Drivers side blinkers work from the stalk, as does the light behind the instrument panel. The passenger side blinkers from the stalk has them light up, but they do not flash, and the bulb behind the instrument panel IS out.

New flasher relay installed so I don't think that's the cause.

Thanks!

 

[Imperial_Eagle_72]

Check the socket fitment and ground from the housing to the body at the lamp that won’t light.

Use a test lamp and probe each pin in the socket with the alligator clamp on a good ground. You can check tail lamps, brake lamps and turn signals.

 

[NOOP]

Check the socket fitment and ground from the housing to the body at the lamp that won’t light.

Use a test lamp and probe each pin in the socket with the alligator clamp on a good ground. You can check tail lamps, brake lamps and turn signals.

Well, here is the thing...both front and back passenger side turn signals actually light up when the stalk lever is engaged, they just don't blink. I was wondering if the green blinker indicator light was out on the dash for the right turn signals, if that would cause that side to not blink, yet still light up.

Seems strange since the separate flasher switch on the bottom left of the dash gets all 4 corners blinking.

Will still check grounds to be prudent.

 

[Imperial_Eagle_72]

It’s not strange because one flasher is for the turn signals which is a 2,3 or 4 bulb flasher and the other is a hazard flasher which is 4,6 or 8 depending on the car.

The dash indicator and/or hood/fender mounted turn signals do not effect the regular turn signal circuit operation because the are fed in parallel with their own dedicated ground, not in series.

The dash indicator is grounded through the gauge cluster frame to the dash. The hood/fender mounted turn signals are grounded through the body.

 

[NOOP]

Ah..okay, got it. Time to cover some ground.

 

[Imperial_Eagle_72]

Also the brake on/off switch will override the hazard flashers, but not the turn signals.

 

[Davea Lux]

If you used a stock type flasher unit, it will not work if any LED bulbs are installed. Led bulbs do not have enough resistance to cycle the turn signal flasher.

Dave

 

[bronze turbine]

Also make sure you replaced the turn signal flasher module and not the hazard flasher module. They're in two different places under the dash and they are two different types of flashers.

 

[Gerald Morris]

The best flashers are the electro-mechanical sorts, which don't rely on resistive loads, but blink because they were circuited to do so at a given frequency. These use a little relay, internal to the flasher and some now venerable integrated circuitry to achive the timing. They run $8-20. Get a pair, one for the turn signal circuit, and one for the hazard lights. These CAN be identical, if you like. The old thermo-electric stuff does alright with old circuit elements, but fails miserably with LED lights.

 

[NOOP]

I appreciate everyone's input. Found the actual turn signal flasher, and that was indeed the culprit. I ended up replacing the headlight switch yesterday as well...dimmer for dash lights was touch and go, and would make a grinding type noise when I would turn it. Half the spring was not seated properly...was just hanging loose, and all sorts of ashy debris fell out of the thing. Anyway, got the new one all hooked up, and now I don't have any damn dash lights, and the dome light isn't working. Fun stuff. Probably a separate thread for another day.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I appreciate everyone's input. Found the actual turn signal flasher, and that was indeed the culprit. I ended up replacing the headlight switch yesterday as well...dimmer for dash lights was touch and go, and would make a grinding type noise when I would turn it. Half the spring was not seated properly...was just hanging loose, and all sorts of ashy debris fell out of the thing. Anyway, got the new one all hooked up, and now I don't have any damn dash lights, and the dome light isn't working. Fun stuff. Probably a separate thread for another day.

WHAT sort of new headlight switch did you use? Not all brands are good you know. Is the new dimmer rheostat wheel made of plastic? The good old stuff had ceramic wheels. Check your low voltage regulator, behind the instrument panel, and if that works, then check for power. The orange wires usually carry light current.

You may have a blown fuse. Check THAT. Do you have brake lights? If "No" then check that fuse. Does the fuel gauge work? If yes, then a conductor isn't connected. Try cleaning up the OLD headlight switch, then reattaching IT. If things work again, get your money back on the new crap.

 

[NOOP]

WHAT sort of new headlight switch did you use? Not all brands are good you know. Is the new dimmer rheostat wheel made of plastic? The good old stuff had ceramic wheels. Check your low voltage regulator, behind the instrument panel, and if that works, then check for power. The orange wires usually carry light current.

You may have a blown fuse. Check THAT. Do you have brake lights? If "No" then check that fuse. Does the fuel gauge work? If yes, then a conductor isn't connected. Try cleaning up the OLD headlight switch, then reattaching IT. If things work again, get your money back on the new crap.

Got it from NAPA - Part NO HL6571. Messed with the old one a bit, but as you can see that spring is just too funky to sit properly. If I recall correctly the wheel was in fact plastic, but all good now. Was a blown fuse so I am back in action. Electrical is definitely not my bag man. Stumbling through with all your help. Thanks again!

 

[Imperial_Eagle_72]

Order an original from Murray Park.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Got it from NAPA - Part NO HL6571. Messed with the old one a bit, but as you can see that spring is just too funky to sit properly. If I recall correctly the wheel was in fact plastic, but all good now. Was a blown fuse so I am back in action. Electrical is definitely not my bag man. Stumbling through with all your help. Thanks again!

Suspected a blown fuse. Yeah, that old switch is scrap. I saved my original, for the '66, and have a spare original for the '68, along w the spare instrument panel it came in. I try to buy NOS electrical switches whenever I see one pop up, or NORS. Scored a Filko for my '83 D150 last year.

Very happy you whipped this problem. I come from a strong electrical background, and have never been beat by an automotive electric issue, though some have certainly caught me off guard.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Order an original from Murray Park.

What's the price of their wares?